OK, so here we go. Parts list and how to run the pipes for Ranger 900 XP. First off, I have to mention, that apparently from the first production 900's, to the newer ones, they made a design change to a bracket behind the middle of the seat. Making it not possible to run them up the center behind the seat as some others have done, without modification to the frame itself. So my method may be good for me, but if you need all 3 snorkels up high, changing up the design to run them behind the cab and cut the bed for clearance may be a better route for the folks that plan to go neck deep while riding. At least this will give you a good starting platform.
Tools Needed:
T-25 Torx driver (to remove seat backs)
T-40 Torx driver (to remove back cab cover)
flat head screwdriver (to remove plastic panel rivets on back cab cover)
Saw to cut pvc pipe & hole in back cab cover
Drill
Marker (for marking pvc for cutting and gluing)
Paint (whatever color you want to paint snorkels when done)
PVC glue
6 mm socket or nut driver (to remove some of the factory hose clamps)
5/16 socket or nut driver (to remove/tighten hose clamps)
socket or driver bit to fit self tapping screws
utility knife (for minor trimming and clean up of cuts)
Parts Needed:
Misc Parts:
1- 2 1/2"-3 1/2" Hose Clamp
2- 2" conduit straps (I used 2 hole straps, but the 1 hole type might have worked better for this application. You will need 3 of these if you run all 3 pipes to the top.)
12 ft. - 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD clear vinyl tubing for diff vents
4 ft. - 5/16" ID x 7/16" OD clear vinyl tubing for fuel tank vent
black zip ties
Air Intake:
2" long piece of 2" pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
6.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
2.5" long piece of pipe
2"x2" Rubber Fernco coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height (mine was about 12" long to reach x-brace on cage)
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper. I used a 90° "tight" elbow with a slash cut piece of pipe sticking out.
Belt Intake:
1- 45° regular elbow
5" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow
1- 90° "tight" elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow
Belt Exhaust:
1- 3"x2" Rubber Fernco Reducer Coupling
2" long piece of pipe
1- 22.5° regular elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
1- 45° street elbow
4.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
3" long piece of pipe
1- 45° regular elbow
2.5" piece of pipe
1- 2"x2" Rubber Fernco Coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper.
Now to start disassembling stuff...
1. First lift the bed, and remove the pins off of the shock that holds it up. I went ahead and removed the shock all the way during my process cuz it required lowering and lifting the bed a bunch to check clearances. Removing the shock at least from 1 end allows the bed to tilt more to get it out of the way while working.
2. Remove all the plastic panel rivets (9 total) in the back cab cover by prying out the center section, then pull the rest out. Then use the T-40 torx to remove 2 bolts holding the bottom of the panel to the frame.
3. Next pull the panel out, and remove the factory belt intake snorkel. The ends of it should pull off where they are connected with little effort. There are 2 T-25 torx screws holding the snorkel tube to the panel. You can remove those, and throw the snorkel into the discard pile.
4. Next, remove the 6 T-25 torx screws holding the seat backs to the frame. Then you can pull the seat backs UP and OUT of their respective slots in the frame.
5. Remove the factory belt exhaust snorkel by loosening the hose clamp near the belt housing cover. Add to discard pile!
6. Remove the factory air intake tube by loosening the hose clamps at both ends, and pulling it off. Add to discard pile!
Tools Needed:
T-25 Torx driver (to remove seat backs)
T-40 Torx driver (to remove back cab cover)
flat head screwdriver (to remove plastic panel rivets on back cab cover)
Saw to cut pvc pipe & hole in back cab cover
Drill
Marker (for marking pvc for cutting and gluing)
Paint (whatever color you want to paint snorkels when done)
PVC glue
6 mm socket or nut driver (to remove some of the factory hose clamps)
5/16 socket or nut driver (to remove/tighten hose clamps)
socket or driver bit to fit self tapping screws
utility knife (for minor trimming and clean up of cuts)
Parts Needed:
Misc Parts:
1- 2 1/2"-3 1/2" Hose Clamp
2- 2" conduit straps (I used 2 hole straps, but the 1 hole type might have worked better for this application. You will need 3 of these if you run all 3 pipes to the top.)
12 ft. - 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD clear vinyl tubing for diff vents
4 ft. - 5/16" ID x 7/16" OD clear vinyl tubing for fuel tank vent
black zip ties
Air Intake:
2" long piece of 2" pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
6.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
2.5" long piece of pipe
2"x2" Rubber Fernco coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height (mine was about 12" long to reach x-brace on cage)
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper. I used a 90° "tight" elbow with a slash cut piece of pipe sticking out.
Belt Intake:
1- 45° regular elbow
5" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow
1- 90° "tight" elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow
Belt Exhaust:
1- 3"x2" Rubber Fernco Reducer Coupling
2" long piece of pipe
1- 22.5° regular elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
1- 45° street elbow
4.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
3" long piece of pipe
1- 45° regular elbow
2.5" piece of pipe
1- 2"x2" Rubber Fernco Coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper.
Now to start disassembling stuff...
1. First lift the bed, and remove the pins off of the shock that holds it up. I went ahead and removed the shock all the way during my process cuz it required lowering and lifting the bed a bunch to check clearances. Removing the shock at least from 1 end allows the bed to tilt more to get it out of the way while working.
2. Remove all the plastic panel rivets (9 total) in the back cab cover by prying out the center section, then pull the rest out. Then use the T-40 torx to remove 2 bolts holding the bottom of the panel to the frame.
3. Next pull the panel out, and remove the factory belt intake snorkel. The ends of it should pull off where they are connected with little effort. There are 2 T-25 torx screws holding the snorkel tube to the panel. You can remove those, and throw the snorkel into the discard pile.
4. Next, remove the 6 T-25 torx screws holding the seat backs to the frame. Then you can pull the seat backs UP and OUT of their respective slots in the frame.
5. Remove the factory belt exhaust snorkel by loosening the hose clamp near the belt housing cover. Add to discard pile!
6. Remove the factory air intake tube by loosening the hose clamps at both ends, and pulling it off. Add to discard pile!