2013 Brute 750 Front diff and steering question - MudInMyBlood Forums
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-18-2016, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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2013 Brute 750 Front diff and steering question

I unfortunately traded into a 2013 Brute 750 that had been driven hard and put away dirty. Plastics busted up on the front, straight wired fan, and a leaking front diff. I went to change the seals. No big deal. The right side went off without a hitch. Got to the left, when I pulled out the CV, the needle bearing let go of every needle that was above level. The cage those needles were in slid out as well. Might I point out that when I drained the front diff oil, it looked like chocolate milk from all of the water that got in there.

Anyways, I've got to get this front diff out in guessing to install the new needle bearing I got for it. I might as well rebuild it once I get it out is what in guessing. Anyways, I got everything detached today, and I really hope I don't have to remove the handle bars and steering stem to get this thing out. If I could remove the plate the tie rods hook into, then it looks like it will come out. How does that thing come off? There is a case hardened piece on the bottom of the stem that is round on the very bottom with a square just above that, then above that are the steering stops. I have power steering on this one. It is a special edition or something. Anyways, how do I get that bottom portion off? I've never owned an ATV before. First one. I've got a Kubota RTV 900 UTV and it's nowhere near as big a PITA as this thing is. I'd really appreciate any help on this guys. I am dreading ripping the entire front and top off of this machine with all of the riveted together plastics with zip ties holding crap together.

Oh! It's got double muzzy exhaust. Anyway to know if it's been mapped or not?

Thank y'all so much in advance.
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-18-2016, 12:52 AM
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I haven't done front dif before, but had read a lot, because when I drain oil it has a lot ofof gold dust in it. Looks like its ok for brute, but I havent seen anything like that from my 10+ years experience wrenching a dirtbikes.

Looks like easiest way to pull it somewhere from top not bottom. But again you have EPS so it may be on the way. As far as steering stem you no need to take apart eather. Its should be ok just to unbolt its bottom two bolts.

I just purchased my new to me brute 750 2012 and had EPS issue. But luckily its was simply el.connector full of mud and previous owner didn't close it properly. But it took me 2 days to figure it out.

Check your spark plug as well. It should tels you if ignition map is correct. You definitely dont want your motor run lean.
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-19-2016, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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VLADG

I appreciate your taking the time to offer help. I got it done, and I figured out a different way to donut from what I've seen online.

I think I mentioned that I needed to remove the front diff due to the left hand outermost needle bearing going out on me. Anyways, I removed the four bolts from the mounting plate from the EPS, and manipulated that steering stem plate which was in the way, out of the way enough to get it laying on its right side. Once I established that I could orient it like that, I stood it back up close to the original position and loosened the bolts holding the outer diff plate on. I did not remove them though until laying the diff on its side. I got the left side diff plate out very easily, and I replaced the bearing within five minutes. The rest of the diff will fit thru the opening once this is done without removing the steering and air intake lines. Obviously, it must be reassembled inside the frame, burnout was easily accomplished. I did take and air hose and blow off as much sediment and debris from above the unit as possible. Maybe it was stupid to do it this way, but I don't care. It worked. I've got the brute all back together and have been driving it all afternoon. It's working fine. There are no oil leaks now, and the new tie rods I installed made a world of difference compared to the ragged out rods that came in it. Anyways, I hope this help someone else that feels overwhelmed by removing or raising the steering stem and removing the handle bars and front fenders.

VLADG, thanks again for commenting. I was freaking out a little doing this job.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 12:19 AM
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Good deal. If this way works for you then it was only way )

Speaking of front diff, I wat to ask a question as well. I was wrenching a little with my Brute yesterday and check front diff inlet shaft bearing and it has quite a play. I have been read that its ok to have some play but how much? I have no oil leak from it.
I dont mind to rebuild it if I need to but its a middle of riding season and if I can wait till winter I better will.

Pls check short video I made for how much its moves.

[YOUTUBE]
[/YOUTUBE]

2012 Brute 750 camo
Elka stage 5 / ITP bread lock rims / ITP Mayhem tyres / front/rear winch / Vision light / Moose hand guards / Moose heating control / custom high radiator and snorkels.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty certain that is acceptable for the prop shaft. Seeing how the frame flexes as the quad is driven, the prop shaft should have some movement to prevent binding. That is my thought anyway. I have seen other videos which showcase a worn prop input bearing, and the play was substantial... At least a 3/16-1/4" ov movement. If you really want to check the bearing for wear though, pull your prop shaft out as it will undoubtedly prevent you from moving the bearing around a lot. From what I saw though, I'd you're good man.
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Here is the big green turd by the way. Ignore the home job seat cover. It's a temporary fix with scrap leather we had around. Upholstery is not our cup of tea.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it won't upload my pictures. Trying to do it from an iPhone. Wonder what's up. Keeps giving an error message. Oh well.
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it won't upload my pictures. Trying to do it from an iPhone. Wonder what's up. Keeps giving an error message. Oh well.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-21-2016, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JS29 View Post
I'm pretty certain that is acceptable for the prop shaft. Seeing how the frame flexes as the quad is driven, the prop shaft should have some movement to prevent binding. That is my thought anyway. I have seen other videos which showcase a worn prop input bearing, and the play was substantial... At least a 3/16-1/4" ov movement. If you really want to check the bearing for wear though, pull your prop shaft out as it will undoubtedly prevent you from moving the bearing around a lot. From what I saw though, I'd you're good man.
OMG - 3/16" play its almost 5mm.
I whould say I have 1mm play its a little more then 1/32". I guess im ok.
Thanks.

2012 Brute 750 camo
Elka stage 5 / ITP bread lock rims / ITP Mayhem tyres / front/rear winch / Vision light / Moose hand guards / Moose heating control / custom high radiator and snorkels.
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