brute force fuel pump

DRZfour00 · 07-06-2010, 11:42 AM

On my King Quad that I had before the Brute, my pump went bad and looked similar to the pic of the one posted above. I got a pump for a Honda Accord and was able to push some small nails into both sides of the tabs that holds the housing together to make it come apart without cracking it. Put it back together with the Honda pump and she ran great. We just need to find the equivalent pump for our bikes. Here is a link to the Nyroc tech tip that shows the King Quad pump and the Pro-fill filter kit that comes with the metal nails to disassemble the housing. Click Here

phreebsd · 07-06-2010, 12:31 PM

you guys should checkout this thread by cabyrd on HL

http://forum.highlifter.com/tm.aspx?m=4117829

DRZfour00 · 07-06-2010, 02:59 PM

I guess that would work in a pinch but wouldn't you much rather have a pump in the housing where it belongs? I would just worry about the pump flopping around and coming apart, even though its secured wit zip-tys.

phreebsd · 07-07-2010, 12:18 PM

absolutely.
just showing that it can be done.
all u need is a pump to plumb into the factory fuel regulator.

MeanGreenMan · 07-07-2010, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phreebsd

all u need is a pump to plumb into the factory fuel regulator.

Where is the fuel regulator located?

N2Otorious · 07-07-2010, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeanGreenMan

Where is the fuel regulator located?

My guess would be in the whole fuel tank assemble that resides inside the fuel tank, so the regulator can bleed off the excess fuel back into the tank with no need for a return fuel line, and the fuel feed can run dead head.

That's just a guess thou.

MeanGreenMan · 07-07-2010, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N2Otorious

My guess would be in the whole fuel tank assemble that resides inside the fuel tank, so the regulator can bleed off the excess fuel back into the tank with no need for a return fuel line, and the fuel feed can run dead head.

That's just a guess thou.

Your guess is right on!
I checked the factory service manual and it says that the fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump body which is inside the fuel tank. So, you are right.

Additional info from the manual is that - the regulator can't be removed from the fuel pump assembly. I think what it's really saying is that you will have to destroy the fuel pump (housing?) in order to remove it. Let's see if anyone here will remove one and post a pic.

brutehulk · 07-08-2010, 09:08 PM

is the regulator the second part with wire besides the actual pump. if it is i took it out you just have to be careful with the plastic housing.

Rack High · 07-09-2010, 05:32 AM

There is a cheaper supplier out there besides Kawasaki but I don't believe I can post their name and price per MIMB rules...or can I?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 650Brute

Hmmmmm. Nice links.

I'm sure someone will find resolve to this. $700 for a pump is OUTRAGEOUS

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:15 AM

Here's a few pics of just the fuel pump....

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:16 AM

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:16 AM

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:17 AM

The numbers on the white plastic part are:

UC-T35
C(or 6)7822

and the bottom is more obviously A4

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:41 AM

Oh...and for anyone that's having the loss of power under full throttle issues....do the '85 mitsubishi galant tank screen mod. It's worth the $19.95. I've had my pump assembly out of the tank 3 or 4 times in the past couple days trying to isolate the fuel issue. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you cannot clean the stock screen. the particles it's supposed to filter get stuck in the gauze material and no matter how much you spray and blow you wont get them out. the way the foot of the screen rests in the plastic resevoir means the fuel has to come in through the top of the screen or at least 80-90% of it.

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:27 PM

Here's the whole assembly mostly disassembled

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:28 PM

And the fuel pressure regulator all alone

smutty11 · 07-10-2010, 07:29 PM

and the galant screen next to the stock screen next to the "resevoir"

N2Otorious · 07-22-2010, 01:08 AM

I think my pump is toast.

N2Otorious · 07-22-2010, 11:57 AM

Opening mine up.

N2Otorious · 08-27-2010, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeanGreenMan

Your guess is right on!
I checked the factory service manual and it says that the fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump body which is inside the fuel tank. So, you are right.

Additional info from the manual is that - the regulator can't be removed from the fuel pump assembly. I think what it's really saying is that you will have to destroy the fuel pump (housing?) in order to remove it. Let's see if anyone here will remove one and post a pic.

I got my regulator out, easily... However, separating the two halves above the regulator is a PITA. Looking up in the hole it looks like a 2nd filter up in there, that you can't get too. The halves of it are plastic welded together.

If that is a filter no doubt it'll be the same filter material as pre-pump filter. If that one clogs, it's a wrap...

07-06-2010, 11:42 AM	#21
DRZfour00 Gettin Muddy Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Parkesburg, PA	On my King Quad that I had before the Brute, my pump went bad and looked similar to the pic of the one posted above. I got a pump for a Honda Accord and was able to push some small nails into both sides of the tabs that holds the housing together to make it come apart without cracking it. Put it back together with the Honda pump and she ran great. We just need to find the equivalent pump for our bikes. Here is a link to the Nyroc tech tip that shows the King Quad pump and the Pro-fill filter kit that comes with the metal nails to disassemble the housing. Click Here
	__________________________ 08 Brute Force 750i Black and Red 26" Reptiles on 12" ITP SS212's in black MSD Charge FI fuel and ignition programmer Chuck750 Full HDPE skids Powermadd handguards Black HMF Utility pipe Direction 2 fender flares Digital Temp gauge Oil cooler MIMB Snorkels Warn front Bumper w/ 4" HID lights Warn ProVantage Front Mount Plow SHAD Rear Hardcase Custom Spring Lift Spacers
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07-06-2010, 12:31 PM	#22
phreebsd Wright Guard Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bama Images: 37	you guys should checkout this thread by cabyrd on HL http://forum.highlifter.com/tm.aspx?m=4117829
	__________________________ 2008 Kawasaki Teryx 31" Laws Black ITP SS212's Relocated Radiator Maroon Primary Yellow Secondary MIMB Snorkels (dual 2" intake) Rejetted RaceDriven Sintered Metal Brake Pads BigGun EVO Exhaust Viper Max 5000 WideSpool with Amsteel Blue TEAM ROLLIN' DEEP 2013 2011 Yamaha WR250R
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07-06-2010, 02:59 PM	#23
DRZfour00 Gettin Muddy Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Parkesburg, PA	I guess that would work in a pinch but wouldn't you much rather have a pump in the housing where it belongs? I would just worry about the pump flopping around and coming apart, even though its secured wit zip-tys.
	__________________________ 08 Brute Force 750i Black and Red 26" Reptiles on 12" ITP SS212's in black MSD Charge FI fuel and ignition programmer Chuck750 Full HDPE skids Powermadd handguards Black HMF Utility pipe Direction 2 fender flares Digital Temp gauge Oil cooler MIMB Snorkels Warn front Bumper w/ 4" HID lights Warn ProVantage Front Mount Plow SHAD Rear Hardcase Custom Spring Lift Spacers
Feedback: (0)

07-07-2010, 12:18 PM	#24
phreebsd Wright Guard Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bama Images: 37	absolutely. just showing that it can be done. all u need is a pump to plumb into the factory fuel regulator.
	__________________________ 2008 Kawasaki Teryx 31" Laws Black ITP SS212's Relocated Radiator Maroon Primary Yellow Secondary MIMB Snorkels (dual 2" intake) Rejetted RaceDriven Sintered Metal Brake Pads BigGun EVO Exhaust Viper Max 5000 WideSpool with Amsteel Blue TEAM ROLLIN' DEEP 2013 2011 Yamaha WR250R
Feedback: (7)

07-08-2010, 09:08 PM	#28
brutehulk Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: mississippi	is the regulator the second part with wire besides the actual pump. if it is i took it out you just have to be careful with the plastic housing.
	__________________________ bruteforce750 law'd snork'd audio tube rel rad spacers and more to come...
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07-10-2010, 07:15 AM	#30
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	Here's a few pics of just the fuel pump....
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:16 AM	#31
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:17 AM	#33
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	The numbers on the white plastic part are: UC-T35 C(or 6)7822 and the bottom is more obviously A4 Last edited by smutty11; 07-10-2010 at 07:44 AM.
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:41 AM	#34
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	Oh...and for anyone that's having the loss of power under full throttle issues....do the '85 mitsubishi galant tank screen mod. It's worth the $19.95. I've had my pump assembly out of the tank 3 or 4 times in the past couple days trying to isolate the fuel issue. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you cannot clean the stock screen. the particles it's supposed to filter get stuck in the gauze material and no matter how much you spray and blow you wont get them out. the way the foot of the screen rests in the plastic resevoir means the fuel has to come in through the top of the screen or at least 80-90% of it. Last edited by smutty11; 07-10-2010 at 08:45 PM.
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:27 PM	#35
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	Here's the whole assembly mostly disassembled
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:28 PM	#36
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	And the fuel pressure regulator all alone
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-10-2010, 07:29 PM	#37
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010	and the galant screen next to the stock screen next to the "resevoir"
smutty11 Trail Rider Join Date: Jul 2010
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07-22-2010, 01:08 AM	#38
N2Otorious Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tyler, Texas	I think my pump is toast. Last edited by N2Otorious; 08-27-2010 at 03:03 PM.

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07-22-2010, 11:57 AM	#39
N2Otorious Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tyler, Texas	Opening mine up. Last edited by N2Otorious; 08-27-2010 at 03:02 PM.

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