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post #1 of 129 Old 12-16-2008, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Tightening Belt/Belt Light Reset

Tightening the Belt: **See photos below, first photo is incorrect deflection, second is correct deflection)

The belt deflection can be measured by placing a straight edge "ruler" ontop of the belt from the secondary to the primary. Using approx. 13 lbs of pressure with your finger, push down on the belt in the center between the primary and secondary. With another ruler or tape measure, in mm or inches measure how far down the belt goes from the straight edge "ruler" you laid across the top of the primary and secondary. This is your deflection. For the BF, normal deflection is 22mm-27mm or 0.87~1.06in. I have found that 22mm-25mm is the best. If you are around 27mm your gonna want to tighten it. The way the belt is tightened is to remove a determined shim out of the secondary sheave by measuring the shims in the sheave and determining how many mm you need to decrease. (The rule of thumb is: 0.1mm (0.004in.) change in spacer thickness equals about 1.3 mm(0.051in) change in belt deflection.) There are 5 shims availabable with different thicknesses. When Kawi shimmed your quad they put in your secondary what they needed to get your belt in proper deflection. Some people have 2 shims, some have 3. Others can be purchased at your kawi dealer. These are what is available:

Spacers
Part No. -------------Thickness
92026-0034 --------- 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
92026-1569 --------- 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
92026-1617 --------- 0.8 mm (0.032 in.)
92026-1565 --------- 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
92026-1570 --------- 1.4 mm (0.055 in.)

What happens when you remove a shim for tightening, the secondary sheaves move closer to the housing while the primary stays the same. This is what tightens your belt.

3 tools you absolutely need are the spring compressor, circlip remover and primary puller. All the rest are usually in a metric tool kit: 10mm socket CVT cover, 19mm socket for primary, 27mm socket for secondary. Flat tip screwdriver to take out the four bushings that hold the secondary together. Broomstick to hold the primary. 1/4 drive or extension hold the secondary pretty good if you can wedge it in the outer sheave and floorboard just right. Brake cleaner to clean out all the belt dust and trash and moly grease for the little bushings and the O rings on the secondary shafts. Oh and a torque wrench so you don't drive the primary back in to far. You can measure the outer sheaves on both in relation to the top of the inside CVT fixed casing if you don't have a torque wrench prior to removing them so when you tighten them back up you get the primary back to the same measurement and whatever you shim the secondary down to should be minus in your new measurement when your done.

To get to the shims, you have to remove the primary clutch and take off the belt. Then remove the secondary and place it into the spring compressor, make a mark on each sheave so when you put it back together they are the same, compress it, remove the circlip and decompress the spring. Pop out the bushing in the center of the sheaves and pull apart. You should then see the shims. If you have a gap tool, you can measure the shims and determine which one to take out to acheive the desired new deflection based on what your starting deflection was.

Belt Light Reset

To reset, turn ignition off and pull cvt cover. Put switch inside cover back into "on" postion. Remove seat and disconnect the 2 connectors grey and black and reverse them. They are located if sitting on quad in right rear corner. The grey one is not connected to anything, it's just a reset plug. Grey into black and black into grey. On top of the CVT cover is a black connector that goes to the switch inside the cover, disconnect that at this time. With the 2 still reversed and the black one disconnected, turn the key to the on, but don't start the quad. Observe the belt light. When it stops flashing really fast and starts flashing slow, the belt light is reset. Turn key off, and put the 2 connectors under the seat back to their original connectors and plug the connector switch for the CVT back in. Your done.

*If it's just the 100 hour causing the light to flash, you do not have to remove the CVT cover and flip the switch. Just swap the plugs and follow the rest of the procedure mentioned above.
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post #2 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 07:19 AM
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Here's the deal. The belt light came on for the "100 hours service". I have a Kawi 360 Service manual on PDF, did exactly what it said to, just as was explained above.... But now the belt light is blinking, and wont go over the 3600 RPM.

The belt is fine. And yes, we checked the CVT switch, and it is in the "on" position. We have tried reseting this belt light, I can't tell you how many times, and still can't get it to stop blinking....

The only thing that I can think of is the fact that the battery was dead, and is currently on a charger. Could this have anything to w/that somehow tripping the belt light? My husband checked the wires w/tester, and they all have continuity (open circuit); so that has ruled out being a fuse or something to that matter....

BTW I found your site from a member of another site, and love all of the tech info....

Would appreciate any suggestions...

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post #3 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 08:37 AM
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battery wont have anything to do with code not being erased from the computer.
I have a P360 like you and at one time i had a time resetting the belt.

With the key off and cvt unit unplugged (it's the 2 pin connector) swap the black and grey then turn they key on and watch for a fast flash. leave it flashing for 20 seconds. it should be cleared.

there may have been some funny about "when" to unplug the 2 pin. whether it was before key on or after key is on.

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post #4 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 09:16 AM
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We did do that so many times....

I did just find this article "Kawasaki Service Update ARV07-02, 4/05/2007" I found that under the Kawi360 there is a different protocol, whereas you "Do not connect the gray receptacle (female) connector to the black plug (male connector), or the procedure will not work.

It also mentions that "Drive belt Faulure Detetion system can be activated due to sudden changes in voltages". (if battery disconnect while in the on position, or significant draw on the battery). Which leads me to believe, it just might, just maybe have something to do w/the battery. We charged the battery yesterday, and total dead again today. So going to get a new battery any way... and take it from there, atleast it will rule that out, and need battery anyway.

Here's the link to that service article if anyone interested....

http://psndealer.com/dealersite/imag...wasakibelt.pdf

I was also reading the service manual, 16-49, that since it just a belt light that is blinking, it could be a "memory Writing Time Limit" or "memory reading failure", how the heck to fix that, who knows. Starting to think might need a new LED...

Let ya know what I learn.... The joys of our hobbies...

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post #5 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Seems like it could be the battery issue then in your case... Lets hope so anyway!


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post #6 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polaris425 View Post
Seems like it could be the battery issue then in your case... Lets hope so anyway!
Keeping my fingers crossed. Will let you know if I find anythiing out...

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post #7 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 09:36 AM
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thanks for the article! i learn new stuff everyday.

2008 Kawasaki Teryx
31" Laws
Black ITP SS212's
Relocated Radiator
Maroon Primary
Yellow Secondary
MIMB Snorkels (dual 2" intake)
Rejetted
RaceDriven Sintered Metal Brake Pads
BigGun EVO Exhaust
Viper Max 5000 WideSpool with Amsteel Blue

TEAM ROLLIN' DEEP 2013

2008 Yamaha WR250R
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post #8 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 10:28 AM
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Hope y'all don't mind, but I also found this out... (tried to tell my hubby yesterday)

There is a "Drive Belt Faulure Fuse" 5A. It's located, get this, by the Oil cooler. It's a pain to get to. I have been doing some digging, and found that ppl who have had the same problem I am experiencing, have found that fuse to be blown. (Prairie Manual 16-71)

Going to check mine now, may not be my problem, but may help someone else out in the future...

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post #9 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 10:37 AM
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Good info. The more the better!
We're trying to make this "THE SITE" for atv info.
Your contributions help us reach that goal

2008 Kawasaki Teryx
31" Laws
Black ITP SS212's
Relocated Radiator
Maroon Primary
Yellow Secondary
MIMB Snorkels (dual 2" intake)
Rejetted
RaceDriven Sintered Metal Brake Pads
BigGun EVO Exhaust
Viper Max 5000 WideSpool with Amsteel Blue

TEAM ROLLIN' DEEP 2013

2008 Yamaha WR250R
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post #10 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 11:00 AM
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FIXED!!!!

It was the Battery.... Put new battery in, ran the same reset, and now works!!!!

Never even had to check the fuse....



Thanks.... Glad to be aboard!!!

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Polaris Ranger 700 2008
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post #11 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 11:30 AM
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Great info. You may save some one else a lot of trouble in the future.

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post #12 of 129 Old 01-18-2009, 11:31 AM
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Glad you got your problem fixed

2008 Kawasaki Teryx
31" Laws
Black ITP SS212's
Relocated Radiator
Maroon Primary
Yellow Secondary
MIMB Snorkels (dual 2" intake)
Rejetted
RaceDriven Sintered Metal Brake Pads
BigGun EVO Exhaust
Viper Max 5000 WideSpool with Amsteel Blue

TEAM ROLLIN' DEEP 2013

2008 Yamaha WR250R
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post #13 of 129 Old 04-13-2009, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Belt Light Reset

To reset, turn ignition off and pull cvt cover. Put switch inside cover back into "on" postion. Remove seat and disconnect the 2 connectors grey and black and reverse them. They are located if sitting on quad in right rear corner. The grey one is not connected to anything, it's just a reset plug. Grey into black and black into grey. On top of the CVT cover is a black connector that goes to the switch inside the cover, disconnect that at this time. With the 2 still reversed and the black one disconnected, turn the key to the on, but don't start the quad. Observe the belt light. When it stops flashing really fast and starts flashing slow, the belt light is reset. Turn key off, and put the 2 connectors under the seat back to their original connectors and plug the connector switch for the CVT back in. Your done.

*If it's just the 100 hour causing the light to flash, you do not have to remove the CVT cover and flip the switch. Just swap the plugs and follow the rest of the procedure mentioned above.
Anyone know if this is the same for the 08 and newer FI models. I was thinking i read somewhere that they were a little deferent.

08 Brute Force 750
MIMB Snorkels with 2 1/2 Air Intake
28 Zillas n ITP SS112's
Manual Temp Gauge
6k HID's
VFJ Stage 3 Clutch
VDI Copperhead ECU
HMF Swamp XL

MIMB Ride at Rock's Bottom video link

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post #14 of 129 Old 04-13-2009, 03:35 PM
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OK found what i was looking for. According to this,its a little different. Wonder if both ways will work.

http://atvquadsquad.com/eve/forums/a...4/m/9591012705

08 Brute Force 750
MIMB Snorkels with 2 1/2 Air Intake
28 Zillas n ITP SS112's
Manual Temp Gauge
6k HID's
VFJ Stage 3 Clutch
VDI Copperhead ECU
HMF Swamp XL

MIMB Ride at Rock's Bottom video link

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post #15 of 129 Old 04-23-2009, 07:35 PM
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Thanks for this post, saved me a ton of headaches
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