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Old 12-09-2010, 12:27 PM   #1
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How to change front Wheel Bearings on a BF750

This will be short sweet and to the point . HRM .
  1. Remove wheel
  2. unbolt caliper and let hang
  3. remove axle nut from axle shaft
  4. seperate the rotor from the bearing assy.
  5. remove upper and lower ball joints
  6. remove knuckle from atv
  7. remove the retaining ring on the inside of the knuckle
  8. drive (or press) old bearing out
  9. Install is a reverse of removal

Last edited by hondarecoveryman; 12-09-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: My Dumb @$$ cant spell








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Old 12-09-2010, 01:32 PM   #2
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That is about as short and sweet as it can get. Good job.








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Old 12-09-2010, 02:30 PM   #3
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Thanks Leland ,I just ran thru the service manual and typed it up real quick . .... do we still get STICKERS for a how to ?








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Old 04-29-2011, 08:34 PM   #4
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i just registered to this site, was told the guys on this forum know a bout the best parts to buy for the most abuse. I will be chainging my front wheel bearings hopefully tomorrow, and front upper a arm bushings. Do you guys have any advice on what kind of front wheel bearings i should buy for running in the mud, and tracks in the winter, im looking for some bearings that will take a beating! Thankyou in advance to anybody out there reading this post!
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:28 PM   #5
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just a little hint on install it helps to put the bearing in the freezer and heat upthe spindle some and tou can push it in by hand.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:15 PM   #6
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Is this the same for rear?
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:28 PM   #7
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Torque specs??








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Old 06-07-2012, 03:36 PM   #8
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Is this the same for rear?
yeah should be








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Old 08-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by hondarecoveryman View Post
Thanks Leland ,I just ran thru the service manual and typed it up real quick . .... do we still get STICKERS for a how to ?

For the life of me I can't find this in the manual. I've got an 05 KVF 700. Everything you mentioned I did, but I've got a break line that runs to the caliper through the knuckle that I need to disconnect if I want to remove the knuckle.

It looks like there's a circlip on one side of the bearing but not on the other holding it in place, does it matter which way the bearing comes out or will it only slide out of one side?

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Old 08-02-2013, 11:43 PM   #10
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The bearing will only come out one way. The big c-clip is on the side the bearing goes in/out, there's a shoulder that the bearing butts up against on the other side.

For the brake line I just unbolt the caliber from the knuckle and hang it from the a-arm or somthing with a piece of wire. That way you don't have to bleed the brakes like if you pull the line off.
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:35 PM   #11
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For the brake line I just unbolt the caliber from the knuckle and hang it from the a-arm or somthing with a piece of wire. That way you don't have to bleed the brakes like if you pull the line off.
Ok I see that with the bearing. I unmounted the caliper from the rotor (2 bolts), but do I remove the brake line? If I do, the manual talks about blowing air in and cleaning up brake fluid but if I don't unmount that bolt and the brake line I have to do all the bearing work while being constrained by brake line kind of a pta.
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Old 08-04-2013, 06:34 AM   #12
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On the brutes the brake line don't go thru the knuckle like that.








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Old 08-15-2013, 08:47 AM   #13
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I ordered 2 new front wheel bearings. The package included 2 seals as well. I didn't see any seals in there when I removed the old bearings though so I'm not sure what they're for.

When inserting the new bearings do you need to apply moly or lithium grease?

I read about heating the bearing housing and throwing the bearings in the freezer to help.
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