questions. intermittent spark, bad coils, crank sensor related
I think this is my first post here, ill try to be as thorough as I can be. I bought an 08 brute force project bike that has an 840 kit, snorkels, whole 9 yards. the motor was out of it, but assembled, so Ive got the engine in and cranking over, just cant get it to start. I had a friends brute force to reference when hooking up sensors and harnesses, and ive got it all together where its not throwing an FI light. it cranks, fuel injectors fire, but have intermittent spark. will usually spark one good time when i first start cranking it over and it wont fire after that. if i spray starter fluid down the throttle bodies it will backfire (probably compression igniting)
before i got to this point i pulled the valve covers back off and verified it was in time. when you line up the rear camshaft and have the stator on TR, and bar it 3/4 of a turn over clockwise, the front cam lines up, and is on the TF mark. I know it is very easy to time it wrong, but that to me tells me its correct. the pistons are at TDC when the timing marks are lined up. Does anyone know if the cam marks should line up with the TF and TR marks every single rotation? mine only lines up like that every other rotation.
The 2 wires to the coils were hooked up backwards, according to the manual. so the ground and power were switched around. when ohming coils out, i get 1 ohm too much on the primary side, and 1000 k-ohms over on the secondary on both coils. so they are both bad by ohms. my buddy and i went through everything that the power to the coils goes through and load tested the wires, everything is good there, but when we hook up the coils and try to fire them manually by giving and taking ground away at the ECM plug we cant get them to fire. We have 12 volts at the coils until you try to crank it over, then voltage disappears. so I'm in for 2 coils and will most likely get an automotive straight boot so i can get away from using the post style plug. does all this check out in theory to you guys?
the crank sensor ohms out 2 ohms short of spec (I think spec is 423-537 ohms and I get 421) but what is more concerning is that i get maybe a half a volt when cranking it over. service manual says I should have 2. I have tried it with 2 different volt meters, one of which records peak voltage. Is this voltage so fast that a volt meter wont see it and i need an Oscilloscope ?
last question, does anyone know what the vehicle down sensor actually disables when it isn't at the right angle? I feel like Ive read everything from it wont let it crank, to no fuel, to no spark. I can crank and i can see the injectors firing fuel, and i get intermittent spark, so I feel like mines working?