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JPs300 04-22-2013 07:22 AM

1k outty full 2" snorkels & RDC rad relocate - write up & pics
Most of y'all know by now how I do my write-ups, bunch of pics & info all done at once after the build is done.

TIME FOR A TEASER!!!!!! :jester: - lol

Bishes be like, "you ain't fitting full 2" for everything on a G2". - I be like, "Wanna bet?"

Only ONE panel cut, zero mods to any other plastics & all fit/snap into place like stock.

I'll write it up for a "pretty please"

Polaris425 04-22-2013 07:34 AM


JPs300 04-22-2013 09:04 AM

LOL - I'm not above bribery. - Just been waiting on the pics he took while I was working to be sent over. I have a good amount, but my phone was plugged in for tunes so he has some that I don't.

Gotta say, the G2 outty's look pretty sweet sans the front rack & bumper. Aggressive looking like a 'gade, but still full fenders to keep from eating it.

RDC's rad kit is nice as well (you can see the snork tips peaking up while all was still white) -

jrpro130 04-22-2013 11:27 AM

Looks awesome! Might be my "new" way to snorkel the G2 outty because (as you know in my writeup) there is extensive cutting and we still have major problems with plastics popping off

How did you secure the snorkel riser to the radiator?

JPs300 04-22-2013 11:51 AM

Simple flat-strap aluminum bracket that bolts to the OE upper rad mount holes on the fan shroud.

jrpro130 04-22-2013 12:24 PM

Pretty awesome!!!`

JPs300 04-22-2013 01:41 PM


So, my buddy (newbie on here, Blknite23) picked up a new 1k outty XT from our dealer, worked a set of s/w OG 29.5 laws in the deal on the bike, did the PVC bushing spring spacers and put it's first 10hrs on it out at our last park ride @ RYC. - Rubberdown rad relocate came in last week & he dropped it off to me to do the snorks & install the rad kit.

It seems all the store bought kits route everything up through the center pod, and only use 1-1/2". Takes A LOT of cutting to get everything in place and there seem to be lots of complaints about getting all the plastics fit back up properly around everything. Many also dictate loosing the hand-guards and/or the risers standing out from teh machine like a sore thumb.

Though it's probably adequate, I'm not a fan of only using 1-1/2" to feed these big motors & cool the belt box. That said, with all the fitment issues people have had with 1-1/2" its seems common opinion is 2" won't fit. I beg to differ. 2" may not fit when using $20 dollars worth of PVC parts thrown in a box & shipped to you for $100+, but it can be done with relative ease with the right products & routing.

As always, I used Flexibile Technologies' flex hose(part# preffix of 0354) for all the routing. Risers are made with various 2" PVC fittings/pipe, and connections are made with metal exhaust couplings available from most any local automotive parts store. - The thin wall exhaust couplings offer maximum strength to clamp onto while being the least restrictive inside diameter. You can also get various "jump" sizes, thus making for easy transitions between factory port/connection sizes & the 2" hose.

I really wasn't happy with any fitment trying to run everything in the pod. Between the cutting required to all the bracketry, riser fitment around the handlebars, and just the general ability to "streamline" the risers into the profil of the bike it just wasn't going to work to suit me. Since he was doing the rad relocate at the same time it was rather simple to instead move the risers out & blend them in with the rad mount.

Without further ado, I'll get to the pics & descriptions:

First off, props to RDC for a well thought-out rad relocate bracket. Yes, that would be a slot cut precisely as need to fit a wrench in to tighten the rad down. -

Initial mock-up of the rad relocate & center riser. -

As shown above in previous post, mounting them was fairly simple. The radiator bolts to the RDC bracket from the front, thus the factory upper mount holes in the fan shroud are open/un-used in the back. An 8" long section of hardware store 1/8"thick x 1"wide aluminum strap made a simple & very effective mount. I bent it in a vise to offset if forward some to tuck the risers up tight as possible. -

The center snork bolts to the strap, the side two bolt to the center snork. Each risers consist of a single 45* coupler, a 22* coupler, and a 6" section of pipe out the bottom(center is a 5" section, to allow a little more room above center brace in the front rack). -

PVC sizing is done per the ID, just like hose. Thus I simply use a 2" section of 2" OD exhaust tubing to slide inside the PVC & clamp the hose over. Each section is siliconed into the PVC & attached with three aluminum rivets. -

I use a "flapper" sanding disc to remove all the casting markings(edges, words, etc) in the PVC couplers, then hand sand with 80, then 400 grit, then paint with auto parts-store rattle can bedliner spray. Gives a nice semi-gloss finish very similar to the factory platics(such as the pod) and is very durable.

The factory air-box hose is just over 1-3/4". Being that's the factory inlet size & I was going to be shortening it down, I didn't see that there would be a "real world" gain stepping it up to 2" into the box, especially for the time/effort invloved. Thus I used a 2" od x 1-3/4"ID exhaust adapter.

Factory inlet hose shortened & flex hooked up, routed out -

Air box hose coming down/forward from up top, belt intake going up/forward with a short section of heat/abrasive gaurd, due to proximity of head pipe. (don't mind the rad hose/connection, was temp to move the bike one night while working) -

The factory belt exhaust riser tube & stock exhaust heat shield -

I removed & reworked(some hand bending, some hammer & vise anvil work) the front of the exhaust heat shield to add some extra room between it and the side plastic, thus allowing my 2" to fit through w/o distorting the plastics. Basically just angled the front bend instead of leaving it running straight way out away from the head pipe in the front. Up front as factory it has A LOT of extra clearance between the head pipe & shield, thus it's no tighter now that the rest of it is behind this point factory. -

A 2-1/4" ID exhaust coupling fits SNUGLY over the factory cvt exhaust, thus I simply siliconed it & put a couple rivets in to secure it. The coupling I used is of course stepped to 2" so my hose would slide right over it. I use a short section of actual 2-1/2" fire hose to protect the flex from the direct heat/contact on the exhaust shield. It's zip tied back towards the front, but the side plastic sits directly in front of it & would hold it back no problem. -

kinda blurry, but all three hoses heading up front -

Looped up top, with the "hood" still off -

Another view, with everything in place(including rad hoses) -

The basic pattern of the cut-outs in the "hood" plastic. I simply cut them to the size/shape of the holes in the rack. **this is the ONLY piece cut of the factory stuff***-

I did sand/smooth the bottom edge of the rack though, as factory the dang thing would cut your hands just washing around the bottom edge of it!

Hoses standing up through the "hood" -

And up through the rack/behind the rad. I put the zip-tie in to wrap around the bottom of the center riser to take out any vibration/shake/etc. ***Check that OE molded rad hose; that's the factory lower hose flipped around. The bend offsets fit PERFECTLY to get the hose down below the plastics, then a simple 1" barb splice and short section of the 1" hose included with the rad kit to hook it back onto the T housing(connection can be seen in above under fender shot of hoses). -

All in place/hooked up (gotta spray-bomb the hoses black, hit them before hooking them up & they weren't dry enough so gotta kinda fudged)-

I'll let him get some good over-all shots during the day when he gets a chance(probably next week with his work schedule). Was 9ish when we finished up last night & my phone was so dead the flash was crap.

JPs300 04-22-2013 02:15 PM


Originally Posted by JPS300
The factory air-box hose is just over 1-3/4". Being that's the factory inlet size & I was going to be shortening it down, I didn't see that there would be a "real world" gain stepping it up to 2" into the box, especially for the time/effort invloved. Thus I used a 2" od x 1-3/4"ID exhaust adapter.

If you want a that last 3/16" of an inch for a 100% true 2" air-box inlet you can easily use a short section of 2" exhaust tubing welded to a flat plate "flange" & bolt it through the air box; similar to what I did on my 800, but you could go straight in to the OE air box port.

Pic of my 800 for reference to above -

jrpro130 04-22-2013 02:37 PM

Wow man, that is slick! I am usually a fan of ALL PVC but the outty is such a pain I think your way comes out a lot better...I can't explain how much plastic has to be cut and how much has to be moved out of the way/relocated and then on top of that the plastics don't fit right sometimes when you put them back on! And only one piece of plastic cut.


TEXAN AVIATOR 04-22-2013 06:23 PM

Nice job man!!

JPs300 04-23-2013 06:02 AM

Thanks guys. - The inner fenders snap right back in as well, just didn't get any pics of that yet.

I've actually never done one with all hard pipe, would drive me nuts working around it. The hose I have works great & hoilds up quite well. I have a couple set-ups pushing 8-10 years now w/o any issues.

Polaris425 04-23-2013 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by JPs300 (Post 274591)

Hoses standing up through the "hood" -

I know why those hoses are standing up....

:bigeyes: ;)

JPs300 04-23-2013 08:16 AM

HAHAHAHA!!!! - that's actually the sales girl from the dealership we use

dookie 04-23-2013 11:10 AM

I noticed that in the back ground too. :bigeyes:

gtsum2 04-23-2013 05:29 PM

Very impressive mods!

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