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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thanks to all who posted up on how to replace the water pump and oil seal.I did not have to remove the stator cover to get to the oil seal,and it was not a hard job at all.I used a medium size flathead screwdriver to knock in the edges of the mechanical seal till I could pull it out, and I used a small flathead control screwdriver to dig out the old failing oil seal,came out with a little persuasion,and you will destroy the old mech. Seal when you pull it out. used a 16mm deep socket to reseat the new oil seal,and the mechanical seal was easy to,I think I used a 1" deep socket to seat the metal ring into the stator cover,and used a 7/8" socket to push in the impeller seal to gently seat it into impeller - just gotta be gentle with seating the seal due to it is fragile - do not use a hammer to seat the impeller side seal,or you will break it !!!!!! - I got an extra set just in case.I'll fill her up on Friday,and see if all is well after starting it up......
 

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Doesn't sound bad at all. I had to replace the seals on my grizzly 700 and it was quite a job.
 

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Dman do you happen to have the part numbers handy? I've been searching but can't find anything. Guessing the part numbers would be the same for the 650 as well? Did the mechanical seal come with the seal for the impeller as well?

So did you just drain the oil and coolant, remove the water pump housing/impeller, and then you were able to remove and install both the oil seal and the mechanical seal without removing the stator cover or anything else?

Thanks in advance!

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should have the part #'s on those parts.gotta wait till I get home later today.Yes drain all coolant,drain oil from engine,remove water pump cover,remove water pump impellar,then you will see the mechanical seal first I believe then the oil seal behind it.Just changed mine last weekend. It's a pain to change. Go ahead and change the oil seal while your in there, It's right behind it. Found the info on this site - here ya go........

SEAL-MECHANICAL - 49063-1055
GASKET,WATER PUMP - 11060-1964
SEAL-OIL,AC037AE0 - 92049-1228
GASKET, ENGINE COVER - 11061-1119
GASKET, STARTER COVER - 11061-1153
 

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Thanks Dman! Did you change the Teflon seal on the impeller as well? Did that come with the mechanical seal? Just pound in the lip until you can grab it and remove the mechanical seal and then how did you remove the oil seal behind it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BIGPUN,you don't need those other gaskets - only need them if you plan on pulling stator cover off.

mrtosh,yes the mechanical seal comes complete with the impellar seal part,and I just tapped in the edges of the metal on the mechanical seal till I was able to grab it with pliers and pull it out.The oil seal I used a small flatblade screwdriver to pick it out,but a pick with a hook would work better.Just take your time removing and installing new parts,and don't force the seals onto the shaft when installing...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not sure about the bearing,but that would be the only reason I would think why one would pull the stator cover off to replace seals - much easier not to pull stator cover off and a little patience pulling the old seals out.Most important thing is not to nick,scratch,or gouge the seal mounting areas,and I cleaned those areas twice with heavy duty paper shop towels soaked with brake cleaner to get rid of oil residue where the seals mate to the stator cover......
 

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Doing this job now, water pump impeller off, water seals out will post pics later
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Please do take pics. Be patient and careful
 

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Now with Pics!

Tear Down:


  • (Not shown-Drain engine oil and coolant)
  • Remove screws holding side plastics and coolant bottle on,
  • Disconnect hoses going in and out of coolant tank, remove tank.
  • Remove front radiator hose from water pump housing
  • Remove 4 bolts holding water pump housing on, remove cover
 

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Pics 2

A lil more to go:


  • Remove ceramic seal from housing, be careful, aluminum is soft and will scratch easy!
  • Oil seal will now be visible, clean oil residue out with brake or carb cleaner, when clean move on to next step
  • Remove oil seal, again be careful, this is a smaller area to work in
  • Once old oil seal is out, jam a cloth inside area to keep out debris and proceed with cleaning the gasket mating surfaces, once surface is free of old gasket, clean up debris again
  • Clean water pump cover mating surfaces and impeller, Prep for new gasket and seal
 

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Putting it back together

Reassembly time:


  • Since these seals and gasket were pretty cheap I ordered 2 of each part and that turned out to be a good idea because I ruined the first ceramic seal I tried to install, it went in cocked sideways and had to be removed and trashed.
  • Install oil seal with a 16 MM socket, deep if possible, pretty easy
  • Next install ceramic seal into stator cover with 1" socket, again a DEEP socket will be best and give you more room to maneuver, this is the hardest seal to get in be patient and take you time.
  • Install smaller ceramic seal into impeller, I put a lil oil on the outer rubber and was able to press it in with my thumbs or as mentioned a 7/8" socket and tap lightly until seated.Reinstall impeller and torque nut to 69 INCH lbs!
 

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Final items:

  • Reinstall impeller and torque to 69 INCH lbs
  • Reinstall cover, tighten bolts in crisscross pattern and then torque to 79 INCH lbs
  • Reconnect front radiator hose, then two smaller coolant hoses to side coolant tank and leave loose for leak check test run
  • Fill radiator with 50/50 coolant distilled water mix, fill engine oil with fresh oil
  • Test run, bring bike up to operating temp, recheck coolant level and check for leaks, if none are found, remount tank and refasten side plastic panels and your good to go wheeling!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Very nice job todbnla. Well done.
 

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Very nice job todbnla. Well done.
THANK YOU for originally posting, all I did was add my pics to assist others with your great info ;)
 
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