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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok I'm in the process of snorkeling the Kodiak right now... It's a pain, and there aren't many write-ups on it, and NO GOOD WRITE-UPS w/PICTURES. So I'm gonna try to do this... Hope this helps someone some day.

**All PVC pipe, fittings, etc. are 1.5" pipe size.**

I'm gonna start with the Transmission intake.

Parts needed:
4 - 45* Fittings
1 - 22.5* Fitting
2 - Rubber coupling
1.5" PVC pipe cut to these lengths: 1.5"(x2) , 2.5"(x3), 4"(x1), *height of snorkel*(x1).
1 - whatever type of fitting you want on the top (I chose a 90*)
Heat shielding tape, this is what I used - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DEI0/010408.oap?keyword=heat+shield+tape I also used high temp paint to paint the CVT intake snorkel.


Procedure:
1. Remove all the plastics of course, then remove the factory transmission intake snorkel. Keep the rubber coupling that connects to the transmission.
2. Put 1 end of the 45* (see picture) into the existing rubber coupling on the transmission (it fits nice and snug). This fitting should point up and towards the front of the bike.
3. Cut a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe 1.5" long and insert into fitting. This piece should point up towards the middle of the bend in the exhaust pipe.
4. Connect a rubber coupling to this short piece of pipe sticking out.
5. Cut a piece of pipe 2.5" long and glue into another 45* fitting and insert into the rubber coupling. Point the other end of the 45* fitting toward the front of the bike. Move the pieces around until the pipe is centered in the "U" shape of the exhaust pipe. Make sure the pipe doesn't get too close to the exhaust pipe. I found out the hard way.
6. Cut a short piece of pipe, about 1.5", and put into 45* fitting.
7. Connect 22.5* fitting to the short piece of pipe. This piece will need to fit between the steering column and the hard brake line. I had to slightly bend the brake line away to gain a little clearance for this piece. Just be very careful not to kink or break the line and it should be fine.
8. Next I used a 45* with 2.5" of pipe glued in the end. Insert end into the rubber coupling and point other end up towards the front.
9. Cut a piece of pipe, 4" long, and put it into the fitting.
10. Put other 45* fitting onto this piece of pipe, pointing straight up.
11. Put a 2.5" piece of pipe into this fitting, then use the other rubber coupling to attach the upper pipe however tall you want them to stick up. (The rubber coupling isn't necessary, but makes it easier to remove the "stacks" for height adjustment, or access to the radiator and stuff that is under the "hood".

Make all your "tweaks" and adjustments before marking all the pieces and removing them for glue and paint. This snorkel should be slightly to the left of center since the transmission exhaust will come up from the other side of the bike slightly to the right of center (as shown in picture below). You will need to cut the hole in the plastic larger, where the original snorkel came out. Just cut a rectangular hole large enough for 2 snorkels to fit through, the Black plastic "hood" will cover up this hole, and you can cut a neater hole in the "hood". Sorry I forgot to take pics of the fittings all connected before I wrapped them with heat shielding tape, and painted with high temp paint. I wrapped double layer with the tape, and then painted over it with 1200* high temp paint. I did run the bike at operating temperature before the heat protection to make sure it was good, and the exhaust didn't melt it this time, but I still took the precautions just in case.










Stay tuned for part 2... Transmission exhaust snorkel... this is the fun one!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
OK here's the transmission exhaust:

Parts needed:

2 - 90* fittings
3 - Rubber couplings
1 - 45* fitting
approximately 3 ft. 10 in. of 1 1/2" Spa Hose
1.5" PVC pipe cut to these lengths: 3"(x2) , 3.5"(x1), *height of snorkel*(x1).
1 - whatever type of fitting you want on the top (I chose a 90*)


Procedure:
1. To make things much easier, remove the back plastics and the left side floorboard.
2. Remove factory exhaust snorkel, 1 clamp by engine and 2 bolts at the top of the snorkel attached to the frame. Keep the rubber boot on the engine.
3. Install a 90* fitting directly into the rubber boot, just like on the intake. it's snug, but it fits. Point this fitting to the left side of the bike, and slightly downward. (see photos)
4. Cut a piece of pipe 3.5" long and insert into fitting.
5. Install the other 90* fitting onto end of pipe pointed toward the front of the bike, and slightly downward.
6. Cut a short piece of pipe, about 3" long, and put in this fitting.
7. Attach rubber coupling to the end that sticks out of the fitting.
8. Starting from the back of the bike, route the spa hose between the frame and engine on the left side of the bike. This process took two people, one to maneuver the end of the hose around obstacles to the front, and one to feed the hose from the back. It would probably help out a lot if this was done in a heated shop, or during summer time. A 30-something degree garage makes the spa hose kinda stiff and hard to work with. Once you get the hose to the front of the engine, there really isn't any good place to route it other than the route that the factory intake snorkel went out the left side under the frame beside the upper a-arm, and then under the shock, pointed towards the radiator. I left the hose long to have plenty to hold onto while feeding it through the frame. Feed it in far enough that when you put the fittings on the end, they will end up right next to the transmission intake snorkel. Mark the back end of the hose where it will fit into the rubber coupling attached on the exhaust, cut it, and insert it into the rubber coupling.
9. Install another rubber coupling on the front end of the hose.
10. Cut a short piece of pipe, about 3" long, and insert into the rubber coupling, followed by the 45* fitting. (you can also use a 45* street fitting as an alternative to cutting the short piece of pipe.)
11. Cut another piece of pipe, long enough to stick through the plastics (matching the same height of the intake snorkel) and put it into the 45* fitting.
12. Install the last rubber coupling to this pipe, followed by your upper pipe of your desired specifications.

Again make all your "tweaks" and adjustments before marking all the pieces and removing them for glue and paint. Leave the spa hose in place, since it only requires hose clamps for connecting. This snorkel should be slightly to the right of center since the transmission intake is on the left of center. You may also notice different connections on the front end of my exhaust snorkel in the pictures. This is because I originally planned to use the different fittings, but figured out that the rubber couplings work better. I just left that one in place cuz it's hard to get back off. Also notice that I used a hose clamp to hold the spa hose against the frame next to the a-arm. This is precaution cuz the tire rubs it sometimes when you turn sharp, don't want the tire to pull it away.







If you look in this pic, I replaced the black "tie wrap" with the hose clamp. It goes around the frame.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok now for the intake. I've seen lots of different opinions on how to do the intake. I chose to come out the original opening, and just route the pipe around to the front with the other 2 snorkels. Lots of people just run a pipe straight up, also known as the "nut buster" style. :nutkick: Mine could still be considered a nut buster, but I just wanted to keep it from sticking straight up in front of the rider, cuz we ride some hilly terrain sometimes and I thought it might get in the way. Anyway, here's how I did mine...

Parts needed:
2 - 45* street fittings
1 - 90* street fitting
1 - 90* regular fitting
3 - rubber couplings
1 - rubber 90* fitting
approximately 16" of spa hose
1.5" PVC pipe cut to these lengths: 2"(x2) , 2.5"(x1), *height of snorkel*(x1).
1 - whatever type of fitting you want on the top (I chose a 90*)

Procedure:
1. Remove the factory rubber intake "snorkel" and put a 1.5" rubber coupling on the lip of the airbox cover. It fits just right.
2. Cut about 2" of pipe and glue into the regular 90* fitting. Put the pipe end into the rubber coupling, and the 90 needs to point towards the right side of the bike. You will have to cut a hole in the gas tank cover for this snorkel to come out from under the seat.
3. Next stick the 2 45* street fittings together and into the 90* fitting and point them towards the front of the bike.
4. Glue about 2.5" of pipe into the front 45* fitting, then attach another rubber coupling.
5. Cut about 16" of spa hose and insert into rubber coupling. (you could also use pipe here instead, you might need like a 22.5* fitting or something to get it straight to the front. I used the spa hose to keep it flexible in case something hits it or something.)
6. Hook the other rubber coupling to the other end of the spa hose.
7. Next take the 90* street fitting and put it into the rubber coupling and point the fitting to the left.
8. Glue a 2" piece of pipe into the 90* fitting then attach the rubber 90* fitting to it pointing straight up. It should come up directly behind (if sitting on the bike) the transmission snorkels.
9. Cut your last pipe to the desired height and top it off with whatever fitting you want.

As always get it all mocked up and make any adjustments before you glue it all together and paint it.

Now for the vent lines. You need to re-route the usual vents. Front and rear diffs, coolant overflow, carb vent, fan, and crank case.

1. For the crank case, you need to buy about 3 ft. of 3/8" ID rubber hose. The original vent connected to the factory intake "snorkel". I just took off the original hose and connected the new hose and routed it to the front.
2. For the coolant overflow you need about 3 ft. of 3/16" ID hose, re-route to the front.
3. For the rear diff, I pulled off the old hose, and used about 6 ft. of 3/16" ID hose routed to the front.
4. For the front diff, I used the old hose from the rear diff.
5. For the carb vent, I used about 3 ft. of 3/16" ID hose re-routed to the front.
6. The fan vent tube is already long enough, it just needs to be re-routed.

Ok now for the location of the vent lines, the Kodiak doesn't have a nice fancy pod like the Brute Force, so I ran a 4th snorkel pipe right in front of the other 3, and ran all the vents up into it. I used a 90* fitting on top and capped it off.








 

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Discussion Starter #5
And now for the finished product. I just need to replace the white tie straps with something better. Hope this helps someone in the future!!






 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also went back and painted all the visible snorkel pipes black. Like the tranny exhaust, you can see it from the back of the bike, so I just sprayed it black.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
is it possible for someone to clean out some of the random posts between the actual "how-to" posts? or just move all the "how-to" posts to the top or something? Just wondering...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did not rejet the bike... It seems to run fine without it... I'm sure to get more power from it, I could rejet, and run a 2" pipe to the intake, or just run a "traditional" nutbuster setup... but this bike is basically bone stock, it's my wife's bike, I just put the tires on so she can keep up with us.. (actually we have a hard time keeping up with her now...) and the snorkel cuz she's not scared to bail off in a deep hole without checking it out first... LOL... IF I were trying to get more power and stuff out of this bike, I would probably redo the intake and rejet it... but it's perfect for what it's used for...
 

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and i'm sure becky is going to enjoy it.. so will the little one one day!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a FYI... The Krylon Fusion paint DOESN'T work very well on the rubber couplings and the spa hose... It remains permanantly "tacky"... :34:


That is all...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE!!

FINALLY got to test these out this weekend... they worked great for the first couple hours, but somehow the CVT intake snork shifted and worked it's way up against the exhaust again... it got hot enough to melt the rubber coupling under the Heat tape... my wife smelled something burning so we stopped and it was starting to ooze black out under the heat tape... We managed to shove a crushed beer can between it and the pipe and it didn't burn any more, but we couldn't take her through any deep water for the rest of the day... Once I get a chance to tear into it and figure out how to fix it, I'll re-post with the end result...
 

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i cleaned up this thread as you requested
(deleted posts between your posts above)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks bro! I'm thinking about changing the intake just to a standard "nut buster" style... either that or doing away with the flex tube on the side and using all pvc...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
BUMP... I think I FINALLY found the solution I need for the melting CVT intake snork... need to get a piece of this flexible exhaust tubing to run in the area that gets too close to the exhaust and melts... I'm gonna check my local muffler shop and see what they have, if nothing, I found it on Ebay and will order it and try it out... hopefully it works!! I'll let you know

 

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I just made a 1 1/2 inch pvc snorkel outta the air box on my 98 big bear 350..it runs fine except at a slow steady low rpm under a load.. Any ideas on what type of jetting I should do??
 
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