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783cc and a point & half more compression(which is as big/more of difference as the CC increase). - Not too sure about them going to a wet clutch system though. Looks good on paper vs all the Kawi belt issues, but ask the yami & cat guys how cheap those centri clutches are when they wear out.
 

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I think in one thread on kawieriders vfj said gearing is good for 75-77 out of the new primary. As far as wet clutches I too haven't been sold on that. I have never had any of the belt issues everyone has talked about and have been running at least og 29.5's ( now ol2's) from the time i bought the bike. I have had stage 3 and spider mod since about 3 weeks after buying it and i do leave it in low for the most part.
 

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You won't slip the belt with a wet clutch, what slips is the wet clutch. Once it wears out you have to go inside the motor to change it & it's likely going to be several hundred bucks. - Just as the yami's & cat's.
 

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Not the case. Ive got 2 other friends with teryx 4s and one has chirped his belt on several occasions and the other blew his belt up from it slipping
 
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I've chirped mine a few times. Don't know much about longevity of wet clutch but love the transmission and clutch set up on my T4. Inspected belt at 900 miles and had very nominal wear and I ride fairly hard. Hope this doesn't mean it is wearing the clutches out instead but love T4 regardless. Good machine.

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Not the case. Ive got 2 other friends with teryx 4s and one has chirped his belt on several occasions and the other blew his belt up from it slipping
Goodtimes said:
I've chirped mine a few times. Don't know much about longevity of wet clutch but love the transmission and clutch set up on my T4. Inspected belt at 900 miles and had very nominal wear and I ride fairly hard. Hope this doesn't mean it is wearing the clutches out instead but love T4 regardless. Good machine.
These are 2014 machines? - The new motor & clutch were just released, they aren't in the previous machines.
 
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I thought there was a discussion of the downside of wet clutches in the T4s going on. Easy doesn't have a 2014 either. Clutch set up in T4s is the same wet clutch from 2012-2014 just "geared" lower in the 2014:)

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I thought there was a discussion of the downside of wet clutches in the T4s going on. Easy doesn't have a 2014 either. Clutch set up in T4s is the same wet clutch from 2012-2014 just "geared" lower in the 2014:)

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I didn't know the previous T4's had the wet clutch, was just going off of Kawi touting their "new bigger motor & improved clutch system" for the 2014 models.
 
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Yeah and if you ever get a chance to try one out, do. Very impressive slow speed control and climbs just about anything. Does good on tight trails and mud. Cage styling needs a little work but...who am I kidding, cage styling needs a lot of work but everyone that rides with me can't believe how capable it is. Should be even better with 2014 fox podium shocks and lower clutch ratio. Engine and bore is the same they just stroked it a little and redesigned the intake tubes and I the exhaust. Anyway...

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yall just please don't make the mistake of getting a Kevlar crap belt. stick with OEM, those Kevlar belts will wear some deep grooves in the clutches because they are so hard. the Oem ones are softer and wont wear the grooves so bad
 

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Most of your wet clutch problems will come from the oil you choose to run in your machine later down the road. The wet clutches for the most part work pretty good, they lock up hard and wear slow. You absolutely *MUST* run wet clutch safe oil, don't take another bike owners word for it that this brand or that brand is fine just because they said so. If you're in doubt stick with what the manufacturer tells you to run and don't deviate..

The problem is oils not designed for wet clutch setups usually have friction modifiers, and likely have the words "Energy Conserving" near / on the SAE label.

After replacing a couple wet clutches I just stick to the OEM oil and here's why:
1) I quit having to replace wet clutches
2) My oil stays clean sooo much longer.. Before with other (internet) recommended oils my oil was dirty and black after one ride.. I can only assume this was my wet clutch wearing out faster than normal.. Now I can go 5-6 rides before even thinking about my oil.


This is what a wet clutch looks like from running the WRONG oil.





Those bare metal marks there are where friction material used to be, you'll notice almost immediately with a wrong oil that something feels off... you'll notice a bit more takeoff lag which will turn into a lot of take off lag, which turns into the engine turning a ton of rpm's and barely moving. It won't take long either, the wrong oil (regular engine oil) will smoke your wet clutch in under an hour.

Other oils can take longer to do the same thing and leave you wondering but if your oil is dirty and black after every ride then you'll be replacing a wet clutch sooner rather than later.

*Edit* And I concur with Greenkitty, buy only OEM belts and stay away from all of the aftermarket ones!
 
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