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Adjusting Valves Video from CamoKVF700

12K views 30 replies 16 participants last post by  sondog 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
#3 ·
whats the intervals on setting the valves on the 750???
 
#5 ·
They are all a little different but usualy they are good for at least a thousand miles. I spot check mine every 500 just so I know where they are. When they get to the lower limit, they get set to mid-range. See the v-twins are kinda funny in that for the first part of their lives the seats work in faster then anything else wears off so the lash depletes for the first 2500 -3300 miles or so with normal operation. Then they go into a period where they don't change for several thousand miles. Then the hard surfacing on the cams & rockers wears through and they start gaining lash over the rest of its life.
 
#6 ·
Once again, MIMB rules!
I have been hoping for something like this to happen before I had to adjust mine the first time. That is a great video, very informative, and easy to understand. I like that he showed the cams to help in the understanding of when to adjust the valves so they are done correctly. Great job CamoKVF700, and thanks for sharing Jon.
 
#7 ·
thanks for the vid im getting ready to do mine soon and this will be a big help:bigok:
 
#8 ·
He says at the beginning of the video that it's a 700 is the valve lash the same on a 750 8 thou for exhaust and 6 thou for the intake I'm guessing it's all the same can I follow this vid word for word and do the same on my 07 750.??? With out any worry
 
#10 ·
Big thanks for this video. Seeing it visually helped me see where I went wrong reading the manual! :rockin:
 
#11 ·
thanks couldnt hav done it without it. couldnt find the marks the manual spoke of but did it this wway and starts right up
 
#12 ·
Ok, I followed the video to the t, after you get all the valves closed and turn it a quarter turn, he takes on the rockers and says u have Clearence, mine don't move or anything, so I guess there bad off??
 
#13 ·
If you really did follow it and made sure you were on the correct stroke then yes your valves are tight and in need of adjustment.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#15 ·
Ok, it's nothing unusual for them to tighten up over time. It's recommended to check and adjust them every 100 hours. I'd say adjust them and enjoy the improvements it gives you in power and starting! :thumbup:

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#17 ·
It can yes. I just went through the same problems with mine. Mine hadn't been adjusted in 150+ hours and were tight like yours. I had hard starts, low performance and excessive heat since valves couldn't open properly.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#19 ·
I have a question. If the intake valves are 10-15 mm clearance. And the exhaust are 20-25 mm. Do I want to set them to the min or max clearance? I saw above you say 6 thou and 8 thou. Well that would set the intake to the larger clearance and the exhaust to the smaller clearance. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong I am trying to get this done right the first time. My feeler gauge says 10 mm is 4 thou, 15mm is 6 thou and 20 mm is 8 thou and 25mm is 10 thou. Any input is appreciated.
 
#21 ·
Always safe to set your valves in the middle of the range. If...you intend to ride in high-heat situations its always best to set the exhaust valves closer to the upper end.

Ok mine is hard to start and does not want to stay running at first but once it is warm its fine.Also it does this when cursing ..go's go's go's go's bogss go's go's go's go's bogss. but not super bad .Will valves do this .It has 2k miles now

Thanks
It can. Yours should have been checked several times by now. Go through it now before you have burned seats..which may already be the case. Brute valves in normal operation get tighter for the first few thousand miles as the seats wear in, then stop for a while until the hard surfacing wears off the cams and rockers...they they start getting looser. Very important to watch then at first.
 
#20 ·
Ok mine is hard to start and does not want to stay running at first but once it is warm its fine.Also it does this when cursing ..go's go's go's go's bogss go's go's go's go's bogss. but not super bad .Will valves do this .It has 2k miles now

Thanks
 
#22 ·
It can. Yours should have been checked several times by now. Go through it now before you have burned seats..which may already be the case. Brute valves in normal operation get tighter for the first few thousand miles as the seats wear in, then stop for a while until the hard surfacing wears off the cams and rockers...they they start getting looser. Very important to watch then at first.


Got it .I will be doing this so.
 
#23 ·
Would it be ok then to run the valves set to. 006/.008 on a 650? Or should I shoot for more midrange? I know some people set their intake lash to just a 1/4 turn off the valve stem and 1/2 turn on the exhaust valves. Does that sound right? This will be my first time setting lash on this and want to get it right the first time lol.
 
#27 ·
The video is on you tube
 
#30 ·
If they are set mid-range per the book, on the timing marks and on the correct position...ie TDC on compression stroke not 180 out, they won't make noise unless something is wrong. Watch your intake valves on what ever cylinder you are working on. Rotate the engine in its normal direction until you see them go down then back up. Once they top out, it's about another 1/2 turn on the crank to TDC. Go slow and watch for the FT or RT in the groove depending on which cylinder you are working on. And...it has to be dead cold. Can't have run even for a second in 4-6 hours.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thank you for the reply, yes I did everything as you described. Glad to know it should not tick. I will revisit all my work.
I can take it all apart again and wait another hour to adjust.
I only had clutch rattle before,( valves had never been adjusted before and it was getting hard to start ) and now running with the plastics off everything seems load lol.

Update:
Went over everything and 2 were on the loose side. Cut a wrench in 3 pieces and tig welded it back up to make a valve tool. Made things a bunch easier.
 
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