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What brand oil do you use?

  • Amsoil

    Votes: 59 11.1%
  • Bel-Ray

    Votes: 9 1.7%
  • Castrol

    Votes: 72 13.6%
  • Havoline

    Votes: 5 0.9%
  • Lucas

    Votes: 8 1.5%
  • Mobile-1

    Votes: 76 14.3%
  • Pennzoil

    Votes: 14 2.6%
  • Quaker State

    Votes: 2 0.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 37 7.0%
  • Shell Rotella

    Votes: 81 15.3%
  • Torco

    Votes: 2 0.4%
  • Valvoline

    Votes: 44 8.3%
  • Manufacturer brand

    Votes: 105 19.8%
  • Cheap Store Brand

    Votes: 12 2.3%
  • Maxima

    Votes: 4 0.8%

  • Total voters
    530
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I use Valvoline for a few reasons:
1) I have a friend who has visited Oil manufacturing plants while working for a name Brand ATV/SNOWMOBILE manufacturer, to where they test each individual oil in a series of different tests all used to show extreme pressures and lubricity in a motor. Both Valvoline semi-synthetic ATV oil and 2-stroke oil have the best coating, and metal conditioning factors in them out of all the above mentioned oils. Period.
2) It is readily available at all of my local Auto parts stores.
3) It doesnt break the wallet as compared to some of the other Fancy/Trendy oils out on the market.

On a side note, I am new into the world of Atv riding, Im a long time snowmobile rider. Just for most people who actually give a hoot about their motors, I am a big time anti-advocate of Amsoil. Im not trying to start a war against a brand in particular, however if you are a user of Amsoil you must keep one thing in mind. That this company is a "triangle" type company, whos main focus is advertising and indiviual sellers (which is why anyone individual can become a Amsoil dealer). Almost identical to the "MaryKay" cosmetic company for which cheap Chinese made gimmicky cosmetics are re-labeled and sold over market price. Same thing happens with Amsoil.

After losing a couple snowmobile motors running Amsoil (both full synthetic with proper settings and applications), upon myself tearing down the motors, it is quite evident that the oil lubricates noting but in fact was evaporating under heat in the motor, thus leaving no barrier between the pistons and cylinder walls.

Merely observations from someone with a lightened wallet of having lost motors from getting swept up into the Amsoil gig. Good luck to everyone using it, and if you use it and have no issues, then God bless and keep using it.
 

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I run Klotz in almost everything I own.....

Motorcycle TechniPlate 10W/40 in both ATVs and a TT-R230 trail bike.

Flex Drive 30 in the transmissions of our 2 stroke bikes (two CR250s and a KDX200).

Motorcycle TechniPlate TC-W3 in the pre-mix for our 2 stroke bikes.

R50 in my hydroplanes.
 

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Klotz sure is a good oil.
 

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i use mobil 1 full synthetic
 

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I use Mobil 1 20-50 vtwin. I use the supertech filters from Walmart the long ones not the short ones. There only like 3 bucks. I'm suprised that alot of you use fram filters in your bikes. If your one of the ones that do you should really search why not to use fram filters or take a look at some oil filter studies. Just sayin
 

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678 Posts
i switch to these oil,hope it works fine, been using regular kawasaki sae 10w40
 

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i use rotella, not only having a diesel so i keep it on hand but its been tested after running it for 100,000 miles and the viscosity of it was still good enough to keep running in the truck so theyre still running it afer 100,000 miles in a truck that is. not only that but its cheap enough to change in the brute after every ride.
 

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I read the study that was posted here (or somewhere on the site) done by amsoil. When i see studies done by a company I tend to be a little leary. IMO I take that study and throw out the top and bottom perfomer. Then I use the info from there. Now before the amsoil guy's get all over me, amsoil is a very good product. I have used it in the past with good results! I think the main thing is here that we change it frequently and try to make sure it never gets too hot. I read somewhere that all petroleum based oils start to break down at about 250 degrees F. So if your bouncing around that oil temp keep it changed!
 

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I normally use kawasaki oil or belray thumper but today i used castrol gtx 10w-40 motorcyle oil high performance
 

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I use Mobil-1 20w-50 Synthetic
 

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I use cheap castrol gtx motor oil and in the front differential. I'm planning on switching to Amsoil in the next oil change. Going to use it for the motor and stick with the castrol for the front diff.
Any problems with people running amsoil 10-40 motorcyle oil in their brutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
nmk im glad u mentioned shared sump. that's one difference in small motors in that they share oil for the tranny and the engine. those are two separate enviroments which both have unique needs from a particular oil.
 

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I see alot of guys saying they run the same oil in the front diff as the engine, what about the rear diff?
 

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I see alot of guys saying they run the same oil in the front diff as the engine, what about the rear diff?
The rear diff takes tractor hydraulic oil. Has to be compatible for a wet brake system.
 

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The rear diff takes tractor hydraulic oil. Has to be compatible for a wet brake system.
Cheapest place I've found it is the Super Tech stuff from Walmart. Believe its about a 2gal jug and right around $20

Fueling The Addiction Using Tapatalk
 

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Run Mobil-1 10-30W Synthetic, in my dad's brute. Is it true that if you run synthetic you have to keep running it? Reason I ask is because I heard if you run synthetic, you cannot just put in regular oil on the next oil change.:thinking:
 

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Run Mobil-1 10-30W Synthetic, in my dad's brute. Is it true that if you run synthetic you have to keep running it? Reason I ask is because I heard if you run synthetic, you cannot just put in regular oil on the next oil change.:thinking:
Not true. You can run conventionals after synthetics. It is suggested to change it after a few miles as some synthetics don't mix well with conventionals but that doesn't hurt anything. No gelling happens. I went back to Kawie oil after Mobile 1. No issues at all.
 
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