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Discussion Starter #1
*Origionally posted by TorkMonster*

Well, I'm going to change out the Helix on my 800 and put in the 650 Helix, and try playing with the weights some.. For now I got the six outty weights and three Renegade weights.. I'm going to try it with the stock outty weights first and if revinng too low will change out to 3 outty and 3 rene weights.. Or to 2 rene and 4 outty or whichever setup works best for me...
Not only to help with belt life, but will maybe gain in the mid range and some in the low end.. Doesn't effect the top end..
From the reviews I've read the gains show up more with MORE load on it.. etc., bigger heavier tires, thick mud so on.. I think it might help with mine just for the places I ride, and even though my 27's aren't TOO big, they are heavier and so are the bighorns that go on it..
Most of them with stock tires haven't reported much of a gain..
So, the lighter the load the less you notice any kind of gain.. BUT if it helps with belt life/slippage then it's worth it to me. Especially with the high dollar OEM belts.. You wont find one at the dealer for much less than 169-175!!
I'm ordering my OEM belts from Parker Yamaha for 146 shipped to my door.. Cheapest place I have found...

The 650 Helix is around $40 from the dealer..
Now the rene weights are only sold in a set of 6, but I found someone with the other 3 after he did the mod for a very good price.. All six are around 200...
I may end up with a dalton clutch kit for it just for more tunability, but I am hoping I will be good with the weights I got...
Here is some more info on the subject on another site..

http://aurorawheelers.com/forum5/11569.html

There is ALOT of reading to do in there on this subject!!! lol
It started out with a guy milling the 800 helix... Which really took it to a stock 650 pretty much....
 

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What angle is the 650 helix comp- to the 800 and what are you trying to get out of it? more aggressive up shifting or just keeping it in the powerband?
 

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Well, it started from a very talented guy that started machining the stock 800 helix's... to better accomodate a sharper angle to help out some with the larger tires.....
The 650 Helix, is pretty much the machined 800 helix....

I ended up with the 650 Helix, and sold the RENEGADE weights and got the DaltonPro Clutch Kit... Put in the dalton levers with the Aluminum Rivets (instead of the heavier steel, BOTH supplied in the kit) and put in the Green Primary spring that was also included in the kit...
My main thing of it was, ANYTHING I can do to counteract Belt SLIPPAGE especially at take off, I aim to do.. It wasn't that it DID slip often, but hey, at 170 (at dealer) per belt for the STOCK OEM belt, hmmm!! lol
It all just helps to put the power to the ground really....
There are MANY variables involved in the clutching, and then you got the difference in each individuals riding style to consider before doing anything to the clutches...
Check that link out, there are pages and pages and pages of reading there.. LOL And I mean PAGES!!! Dang that is one HUGE thread!!!
The helix, it seems to show the difference more when it is put under LOAD.. It seems to help with belt "PINCH" also while under this load.. Now the primary ofcourse you can play with the weights and springs for engagement as well as the belt "GRAB"....
I got ALOT to learn on these clutches, and there is so much you can do to them.. If only I had the MONEY to do these things!!! LOL

There are many other advantages in doing this mod. or other mods like it.. alot depends on preference of riding.. If someone rides alotta trails and HILLS, a set-up like this may not be the best thing for them....



Cool this got transfered over Mr. M.I.M.B... Thank ya'...
 

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Wilson Creek Riders
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Here is some pics of the clutches.... I did the helix swap at the same time, though didn't get the pics.. But there is nothing to the swap of it.. Just pull your secondary off and the helix is behind it... **BEWARE*** there is a STIFF SPRING in behind the secondary!!!! You really need two people for it.... atleast for the reassembly of it... Not REQUIRED but makes it a HECK of a lot easier.......

The Primary pulled off....


The PRIMARY pulled apart... With weights.


Stock outty weights on the scale

Stock Renegade weights on scale.

Side by side comparison with the Rene on top and outty on bottom....

And of course the weight changes..




Now I have since took the rene weights out and with with the DALTON kit and the GREEN primary spring that was included with the dalton.... MUCH better than the stock outty OR rene weights....
With the rene weights, it just seemed to rev right outta where I wanted it! lol Maybe it woulda been different with the rene weights AND a stiffer primary spring.... But I didnt have that till I got the DALTON kit.
 

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Moved to the how-to section. thanks for the contribution!
 

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Wilson Creek Riders
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Nice I made the how to's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Good job on the write up.
 

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you know looking at that clutch setup, it looks identical to the Arctic Cat 400's clutch.
and I mean identical!
 

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Wilson Creek Riders
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you know looking at that clutch setup, it looks identical to the Arctic Cat 400's clutch.
and I mean identical!
LOL well, ain't no Artic Cat over here!!

Ya know, i've never looked at the kats clutch setup..
 

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Hey man I called my dealer to get a 650 helix and they asked me was it for the drive train ordriven train?? Idk I thought there was only one... Which One is it
 

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I believe the "drive" clutch is the "primary" and the "driven" is the "secondary"
 

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Qurstion for yall. I have alot of stall in my clutch and am wanting to replace my secondary clutch. Do I just need to replace the springs and weights or is there more to the clutch than that? If so wat else is there to do to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
usually stall comes from the spring in the primary clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would think so, I mean I dont know much about Outty clutches, but if you had a kawi and said I have too much stall I would say get a lower on the list primary spring. I dont see why it would be any different here, but I could be wrong.
 

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My $.02 - The 650 helix is a "must have" mod for big tires.

When my law2's went on I first tried the EPI red secondary and wasn't overly impressed. I knew w/o it the tires would have cost me more than they did, but it alone wasn't going to be enough for thicker mud. I got hung up in some thick stuff in 2wd, stopped & engaged 4 and couldn't turn the tires. Tried easing up on it & tried a quick whack; both just resulted in a little belt smoke. Had I gone in in 4 with them slinging I think I would have been ok, but going in with a lot of throttle & hoping something doesn't break is not my riding style. - The heavy spring also noticably increased my cruising rpm.

I picked up a 650 helix & swapped it in instead of the red spring. - Bike is back to cruising like stock & has instant responsiveness. Jumps right up on shift-out when nailed from a stop and snaps back quickly when nailed at cruising speed. Haven't gotten to play in anything overly thick yet but from playing in deep water I'm certain it will be better than the spring was. I don't think it will be enough yet for my liking though and I may put a slightly heavier primary spring in to help get me by until I can justify spending the $ on an aftermarket primary.
 

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I agree, having already ran the epi red secondary, then red + 650 helix....which was very excessive rpms on the trail, and currently stock secondary with 650 helix which is my favorite so far. Turns my 31s good on the gade. I also have a cv tech primary which made a world of difference, but the stock primary with only the 650 helix still pulled very well.

"Killing Time Using Tapatalk 2"
 

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Filthy - you running a stock/unmachine 2ndary? - If so, you've got more on the table yet.

The machining lets the 2ndary close up further to pull the belt all the way down on the smaller one-way in the CVTech/QSC primaries which lowers your take-off ratio even further than just swapping the primary alone.
 

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Yeah I'm aware of that....and yes my secondary is stock (for now). I will get that knocked out later on down the road, there's just really no need for it, the primary already made so much of a difference.
 

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This is going to sound like a dumb question but are the clutches on the canam like the brute, just drop in a spring and call it good, or do you have to deal with weights and stuff? Have not got in to the clutching aspect of can am yet so just curious.
 
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