2.5 turns out is way too rich, 1.5 turns is factory I believe on those prairies. Have you checked valves to see if they were in spec? I'd definitely check the coil as well. Maybe pull the belt or clutches off to see if the converter is binding up?
Desperate for Prairie Help
I have an '06 360 Prairie that I recently bought that has a really bad miss in gear. It idles and revs fine in neutral, but totally falls on its face, and runs like crap as soon as you give it a little throttle in H, L, and R. Actually, it acts like the normal sputter in reverse in all gears(override doesn't affect the sputter in reverse). I can tell that the previous owner has tore into it a little, due to the marring on bolt heads and screws, although he told me he's never done anything to it. This bike seems to run really rich, and doesn't have a lean crackle or backfire. Also, there are no lights blinking, and 4wd works fine. I have ran out of ideas, and feel it may be something electrical that is kicking my but. This bike is in excellent condition and appears to never been abused. All aluminum is still bright, no rust, factory tires are 75%, and always kept in the garage.
Here is a list of things I've tried, and now I'm at a loss and hope you guys can help:
Replaced gas and added some Seafoam
Confirmed a good stream of gas was coming from tank to carb
Replaced spark plug (it looked very rich)
Reset limp mode(although no lights were blinking)
Pulled CVT cover off and confirmed switch was turned in on position
Adjusted mixture screw anywhere from all the way in to 2.5 turns out
Shimmed main needle .060
Replaced rubber boot between carb and cylinder
Replaced stripped plastic choke needle retainer at carb
Disassembled carb and cleaned 3 times
Recharged air filter
Adjusted valves (exhaust .007, intake .004)
Checked battery voltage while off 12.2 volts
Checked voltage at idle 13.8 volts
Checked voltage while revving 14.1 volts
Disconnected voltage regulator (made no difference in symptoms)
Checked the two visible fuses
Here is a list of things I've tried, and now I'm at a loss and hope you guys can help:
Replaced gas and added some Seafoam
Confirmed a good stream of gas was coming from tank to carb
Replaced spark plug (it looked very rich)
Reset limp mode(although no lights were blinking)
Pulled CVT cover off and confirmed switch was turned in on position
Adjusted mixture screw anywhere from all the way in to 2.5 turns out
Shimmed main needle .060
Replaced rubber boot between carb and cylinder
Replaced stripped plastic choke needle retainer at carb
Disassembled carb and cleaned 3 times
Recharged air filter
Adjusted valves (exhaust .007, intake .004)
Checked battery voltage while off 12.2 volts
Checked voltage at idle 13.8 volts
Checked voltage while revving 14.1 volts
Disconnected voltage regulator (made no difference in symptoms)
Checked the two visible fuses
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
I am currently at 2 turns out, but never noticed a difference when turned in more.
Valves check in, according to specs I've found.
I haven't checked the coil yet, but I really do expect it to be something electrical. I even tried to purposely make it lean and tried running without an air filter, but made no difference.
Valves check in, according to specs I've found.
I haven't checked the coil yet, but I really do expect it to be something electrical. I even tried to purposely make it lean and tried running without an air filter, but made no difference.
2.5 turns out is way too rich, 1.5 turns is factory I believe on those prairies. Have you checked valves to see if they were in spec? I'd definitely check the coil as well. Maybe pull the belt or clutches off to see if the converter is binding up?
You did Say you checked the battery voltage, but do you have another bike you could swap a battery from? My prairie did the same thing and ended up being a battery. It ran great with the battery from my brute. Try swapping a coil as well. If you have a 650 brute like your user name, it'll be the same coil and you can rule that out as well. Sounds like you're having an issue with spark to me.
Why do you have .060 shims on the needles - .040 should be the max. Did you check the choke assembly on the carb. to make sure it's not on all the time. Make sure the carb is jetted correctly with a clean air filter. Not sure for the 360 quads, but sounds like the electrical buss connector problem the 05 - 06 brute 750 have had. It sounds like you now what your doing, but you make no mention of modifications to exhaust or engine, the drive belt, or carb jetting.
I first started with .020 main needle shim and worked my way to .060. (just haven't pulled them back out yet). The bike is bone stock and still has .155 main jet(can't remember others). The choke assembly appears to be fine, but I cant tell for sure. I wasn't sure if the buss connectors were an issue on these 360's, but that could certainly be it. it seems like whatever I do, it just runs incredibly rich.
Why do you have .060 shims on the needles - .040 should be the max. Did you check the choke assembly on the carb. to make sure it's not on all the time. Make sure the carb is jetted correctly with a clean air filter. Not sure for the 360 quads, but sounds like the electrical buss connector problem the 05 - 06 brute 750 have had. It sounds like you now what your doing, but you make no mention of modifications to exhaust or engine, the drive belt, or carb jetting.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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