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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My pump is still holding up fine. The pump on my brute spikes at 8psi when the needles stop flow. I have had a couple of times where it overflowed gas out the vent tube if I was stopped on the side of a hill. I have lived with it because it runs so well and it has only happened a couple times in a year. I just bought one for a friend's brute and it only spikes at 4psi. I will be checking the pressure on these pumps before installing from now on. I will also be replacing mine with one that is set at a lower pressure. If anyone knows of a way to adjust the pressure on the 42s pump, I would appreciate the info.
 

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has anyone tried using the power off of the "run switch" It's the yellow with red stripe

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I have read that someone has. I looked at the wire, but it is a very small guage wire where it connects to the CDI.
 

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nice write up. thanks for the info i ordered my 3-5 psi pump tonight off of ebay for 28.00 shipped my 05 brute force cuts out real bad at idle when going slowly going down bumpy trails and i gotta half choke it or full choke it to get it to start again the bowls are running dry.

when i changed my rear diff this all started. i think i messed up my main fuel pump. o well electric seems like the way to go on the carbbed brutes.
 

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I'm going to do this mod to my BF 750 06' since I have already removed the fuel tank to do the FUEL TANK SKID Mod.

However you mention that in step 17 "Turn the fuel valve to the PRI position", where is this valve?

*Sorry for the stupid question*
 

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I'm going to do this mod to my BF 750 06' since I have already removed the fuel tank to do the FUEL TANK SKID Mod.



However you mention that in step 17 "Turn the fuel valve to the PRI position", where is this valve?



*Sorry for the stupid question*

Found it
It was covered in mud.

Thanks
 

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I know this is old forum, but I purchased a 750 with this mod, is it ok/normal for this pump to be wired to the 10amp fuse and constantly run when the key is on?
 

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Yes it is normal to be wired that way. I would like to wire mine differently though. It would be nice to have the pump run off of the run switch, but those wires run the CDI as well, and I don't want to overload that circuit. Just don't leave the key on for a long time without the engine running. I have had no problems with this mod. I think it's been two years now since I installed this mod, and I will be changing my carb Needle valves soon just as a maintenance thing for peace of mind.

---------- Post added at 06:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 PM ----------

Anyone else wire there differently with success and not through the key switch.
 

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Backwoodz Boggerz
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Mine is wired to the kill switch no problems in 3yrs
 

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Thanks rmax.....
 

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Backwoodz Boggerz
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Can't rember what wire I used but looked at the schematic for the wire that ran from switch to the ecu cut it an ran the fuel pump ground wire to the harness side best I can remember
 

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Heck yeah it helps thanks so much. Jetting my Brute was nightmare and then did the mod but, used a spectre pump because they where out of the mr. gasket and it is working perfect a little bigger and no housing to cut off. It was rated at 3 to 5 psi's and I was able to make it fit in to the old harness and it came with a bracket for mounting just wrapped it in foam and some thin rubber. Do this mod if you own a carbed zoot! Enough Said!
 

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What size fitting did everybody use? 1/4NPT x 1/4" ID hose barb?

Edit: It is 1/8" MNPT x 1/4" ID hose
 

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I've done this mod and I works great but I seem to have some backfiring and sputter at 1/4 throttle or so. My carburetor is completely stock. Should I change anything on the carbs to accommodate the fuel pump?
 

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Backwoodz Boggerz
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might want to look at the air /fuel mixture screw might be a little rich with the constant fuel flow you have now
i would give a 1/4 turn in on each an see if it has any effect
 

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Guys

I know this is an old thread but I recently picked up a '06 Brute that had an Edelbrock electric pump wired to it. It ran great for like a day or so and then the pump died. The pump was red hot. Not sure how it was wired but you could hear it running as soon as you hit the key. We picked up another pump just like it that day and installed it and it lasted about two hours of hard running before it died the same way. Any idea what could burn out these pumps that fast? They are not being submerged.
 

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Some pumps are designed to have a return so the some fuel always flow through for cooling. Not usually on low pressure pumps though. They are supposed to shut off. Most people use the Mr Gasket #42S pump for that application.
 

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Some pumps are designed to have a return so the some fuel always flow through for cooling. Not usually on low pressure pumps though. They are supposed to shut off. Most people use the Mr Gasket #42S pump for that application.
Thanks for responding. We ordered a new fuel tap and a replacement vacuum fuel pump. We are going to try and put it back like factory. However, I see lots of people using the Mr Gasket 42s as an "upgrade" so once we get it running we may be going back to the electric fuel pump.
 
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