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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I finally got around to rebuilding the upper arms on my brute. They have been worn out for some time. Sorry for the crappy pic they were taken from my cell phone.. You will get the idea though..


1. First remove the wheel.

2. Remove the shock bolt, you will need a 14mm wrench/socket.

3. Push the shock up out of the way.

 
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
4. Remove the bolt holding the brake line on the a arm, it will take a 8mm socket/wrench.Next pull the cotter key and useing a 17mm socket loosen the castle nut, but leave it on a few threads to protect them.

5. Now you will hold up on the upper a arm, and stike the a arm where my finger is pointing too, you can see the flat spot where I hit it. After a few good blows the tapered ball joint bolt will fall out.



6. After it falls out remove the castle nut and pull the a arm up.

7. Now remove the bolt nut and bolt holding the arm onto the frame. Mine was really difficult to remove the bolt out of the a arm. I had to leave the nut on flush with the end of the bolt and hit it with a hammer to get it out.
8. Now that you have the a arm removed get ready for removing the bearings..



9. Remove the the seals from both ends of the arm using a small screwdriver, or needle nose pliers. On one end ther is a small spacer that will come out when the seal is removed.



10. You will need to remove the snap ring on the heim style bearing side. Now you will need a long punch that will drive out the heim style bearing from the opposite end of the below photo.



11. Then you will turn it over and drive out the needle bearing I used a socket that fit snugly into the tube and the old spacer/sleeve to drive out the needle bearing.




12. After removing the old bearings I decided to drill and tap the tube for a grease zerk. The old bearings that came out had no grease, and were full of dirt, and rust. The following pictures show where I placed the zerk, it was pointed in the perfect direction to grease the a arm.





13. Now that the zerk is in place clean the inner tube very well, and lightly greas/oil it so that the bearing will go in easier.

14. You will now need to drive in the heim style bearing using the socket that you used to drive out the needle bearing from earlier.. You will also drive in the needle bearing in using the socket as well.. You will feel these bearings bottom out on a shoulder in the tube.




15. Put the snap ring back in against the heim style bearing.

16. Place the seal in the tube on the heim bearing side, and slide the small spacer in to the seal, it will rest against the heim bearing.



17. Place the seal in the needle bearing side, and slide in the new sleeve, I would lightly grease it too.. Now the it is ready to go back onto the frame.

18. Now replace it the way you took it off.. Remember to grease it once you get it back together.. Below is a pic of the arm installed showing the orientation of the zerk. This thing drives way better now.. Only takes took me about 1.5hrs to get it all done..

 

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Thank you very much for this submission. I'll be using it at some point.
Nice looking shop btw. Is that Cobalt toolboxes I see ;)
 

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nice write up Wp!!! Thanks!
 

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Awesome job on the write up Wpeschel. I will be using this one in the future my self.
 

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Breaker of things
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I've got 600 mi on mine and one is shot already.

and the dealer here stocks a bunch of them, and that's never a good sign.
 

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Breaker of things
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Just jack up and grab the front wheels and give them a shake, it they are bad, they will move.
 

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SAY I WON'T!!!
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Looking to be doing this in the near future. Great write up also!! thanks
 

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i will doo this when the time comes;)
 

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perfect!!
now to order BOTH sides. i did not realize how bad mine were untill i put my zillas on there.

thanks!!

**Edit**
looking at the part number on YOUR bearing kit, it looks like you got the part
# WE341032

whats the difference between that part number and part #
WE341029

i need both sides done so which part # do i order??
 
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Awesome Post! I will definently to this as Preventive Maintenance. This site/forum rocks! I'm saving Soooooooooo much money...
 

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I have less than 300 miles on my bike and I have to do both sides already. I will be doing this soon......Thanks for the write up, seems easy enough.
 

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Nice...EPI and All Balls are the best I have found to use.
 

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very useful information, thanks for sharing
 

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I put in the EPI Kits at about 1200 miles, made them greasable and give them a shot every about 500 miles. I am now at 2300 and they are still tight as new. There is a guy that makes a polyurathane bushing kit that supposed to be the last kit you will ever buy...I forget the guy's name...I'll look for it and post it here when I find it. I think he is over at...K****riders. Kujo...I think.
 
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