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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. 2010 Kawasaki Brute Force 750. Fuel pump relay works sporadically when it feels like. If I bypass it the machine runs. Ive tried swapping relays and it still does it. Can someone tell me what controls the relay? And I know the CDI sends it its signal to activate but what gives the CDI the go ahead? The roll over switch perhaps? I cant find this info anywhere.
 

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I always thought it was the pressure regulator but the Roll-over, kill switch and interloc relays may also play a part. Also the 2010 still have the old style fuse box with the connectors underneath that do hold water and get corroded badly. Do check it. The manual has a pretty good trouble-shooter. Might try it. And CDIs are on carbed machines, EFIs have ECUs or ECMs.
 

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Ok thanks about the CDI info. That’s what everyone calls it for some reason. I’m a car mechanic .i Just figured on an ATV. It was referred to as a CDI for some reason or another.
I got the machine on Thursday the 11th. I bought it not running. Got it for a great price. So I started researching it. One of the many things I did so far was pull out the fuse box and checked all connections. They were all good. I pulled all the fuses and cleaned them then coated all terminals above and below the fuse box with dielectric grease.
Buddied story goes like this. He brought it to a butcher who called the fuel pump. Still no start. Then he changed the injectors with no luck. Then buddy through in the towel and I bought it.
I found all the relays and the roll over under the plastic holder dangelling. I put them all back into place with roll over arrow pointing up. Spraying fuel down the TB’s it starts. Checked for fuel and there was very little pressure and volume. Pulled the aftermarket put and put the original one back in which buddy gave me. No luck. Went straight to the fuel pump relay and i was missing the trigger to the relay. Bypassed it and it started but only while holding the throttle 1/4 way. It would only go up to half throttle before it would choke. Back to gooogle and my belt light was on. Cleared the light. Now and before it wouldn’t idle. Back to google. Pulled the hoses off from the air switch ( forgot what its called but located under throttle side ) and it idled. More google tested crank sensor n its out of spec preventing the idle apparently. Haven’t changed it yet.Now at some point I plugged the relay in and it worked and then it just stopped working for no apparent reason. The good news is I haven’t spent a dime yet and she runs. I hate seeing guys that just start installing new parts with no diagnosis but to each his own. That’s not me. Oh and at one point when the relay wouldn’t work I cleaned the terminals and slightly bent the them for a better contact and it worked for a while. Then again fuel pump relay went on vacation and I had to bypass it again to get it to run. Any ideas, suggestions? I’ve multiple places that the roll over switch cuts the relay so I’m at the point of saying just buy one but again i would love to verify it prior.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Btw correct me if I’m wrong but the pressure regulator in not electronic on these . It’s just a small valve in the tank. It’s part of the fuel pump assembly. I checked it when I had it all apart
 

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PS how do you put the writing under your responses. The ones in red of your bikes?
Got to tools, then User CP, then signature. You can put what you want in there in any color. Even links. Then save it.

Btw correct me if I’m wrong but the pressure regulator in not electronic on these . It’s just a small valve in the tank. It’s part of the fuel pump assembly. I checked it when I had it all apart
Never actually looked at the fuel system on the EFIs that closely.
 

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Ok so I started checking it again. Veri fired no relay trigger so I again went over any possible poor connection. Well the ECM connectors were not fully plugged in. As I raised the ECM out the connectors just slipped off and the connector locking tabs are not bent or broken. As soon as I did that the relay turned on. I hope it was that because it did touch other connectors prior. It’s one hour after and it still starts sooo we shall see.
 

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Sowhen I got this I noticed the fan Shroud was all bent preventing the fin to spin. I know, not a good sign. Also the lower mounting bracket was bent eating away at the rad and not mounted so straightened it and got the fan to spin. I also made a mounting bracket. All good now. So now that the bike was running I wanted to verify the fan operation so I had to run it. BTW I changed the clean engine oil that I got the bike with because it was over filled due to having to much fuel in the oil. While she was purring it died and FI light started flashing. Check the codes by grounding the green wire with black tracer located by the relays plugged into a black connector cover with no wires coming out of it. Turned key on and got code 21. Needs a crank sensor as already discovered previously. I guess it built more resistance while runnng. Ill let it cool down and try it again. It should start.
 

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So it started n I ran it for about an hour at idle. Then of course I had to take it out up and down the surrounding streets. I think She doesn’t like to have her front tires to dirty so she kept taking them off the ground. Runs mint. Best Buy ever
 
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