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Fuel tap assembly and backfire

914 views 0 replies 1 participant last post by  Scandman 
#1 ·
Just bought a 2008 Brute Force 630SRA, 600 miles on it (Background) it had been sitting for a while and I've done the following since I got it:
drained crap gas and flushed tank
new irridium NGK plugs gapped to .030
new fuel line (will be installing inline filter, electric pump and shut off when they arrive)
carbs cleaned and kit installed double checking to have the jets that differ in the correct carb)- I didn't separate, soak or ultrasonic them, just super flushed using carb spray and cleaned as well as possible, there was a little varnish on the slide needles and the needle valve tips looked nice but there had been gas in crank case
new uni air filter
new coolant
oil changed to 10w-40 Amsoil synthetic
rear diff fluid

I noticed there is fuel dripping where the vacuum cap meets the block of the fuel tap assembly, I disassembled it and there's a hard plastic piece that looks like a hat in there with a part of the brim of it is flat, maybe 2 mm wide I'm not sure if that's normal. The rubber gasket on the other side (block side) also looks a little dried and shrunk up. The bike started great after putting carbs back on and purred at idle but when I rev it up it pops and stalls and backfires out of the carb and tailpipe. From what I've read this could be from a lean condition and my theory is that extra air is coming into the leak of the fuel assembly and causing the backfiring. Think I'm on the right track?

Sidenote- the carbs had caps over the pilot screws so I'm guessing they've never been into, when I checked what they were set at they were at 1 3/4 and 1 5/8. Factory calls for 2 1/4. I set them at 2 1/4.

I have to fix the tap leak as it drips a lot. Does anyone know if you can get rebuild kits for the fuel tap assembly or do I need to buy one? They're $109 on one of the parts sites. Would a used one be OK or does this part fail frequently and I should get a new one?
Thanks,
Scand
 
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