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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, so here we go. Parts list and how to run the pipes for Ranger 900 XP. First off, I have to mention, that apparently from the first production 900's, to the newer ones, they made a design change to a bracket behind the middle of the seat. Making it not possible to run them up the center behind the seat as some others have done, without modification to the frame itself. So my method may be good for me, but if you need all 3 snorkels up high, changing up the design to run them behind the cab and cut the bed for clearance may be a better route for the folks that plan to go neck deep while riding. At least this will give you a good starting platform.

Tools Needed:

T-25 Torx driver (to remove seat backs)
T-40 Torx driver (to remove back cab cover)
flat head screwdriver (to remove plastic panel rivets on back cab cover)
Saw to cut pvc pipe & hole in back cab cover
Drill
Marker (for marking pvc for cutting and gluing)
Paint (whatever color you want to paint snorkels when done)
PVC glue
6 mm socket or nut driver (to remove some of the factory hose clamps)
5/16 socket or nut driver (to remove/tighten hose clamps)
socket or driver bit to fit self tapping screws
utility knife (for minor trimming and clean up of cuts)


Parts Needed:

Misc Parts:
1- 2 1/2"-3 1/2" Hose Clamp
2- 2" conduit straps (I used 2 hole straps, but the 1 hole type might have worked better for this application. You will need 3 of these if you run all 3 pipes to the top.)
12 ft. - 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD clear vinyl tubing for diff vents
4 ft. - 5/16" ID x 7/16" OD clear vinyl tubing for fuel tank vent
black zip ties

Air Intake:
2" long piece of 2" pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
6.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow fitting
2.5" long piece of pipe
2"x2" Rubber Fernco coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height (mine was about 12" long to reach x-brace on cage)
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper. I used a 90° "tight" elbow with a slash cut piece of pipe sticking out.

Belt Intake:
1- 45° regular elbow
5" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow
1- 90° "tight" elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 45° street elbow

Belt Exhaust:
1- 3"x2" Rubber Fernco Reducer Coupling
2" long piece of pipe
1- 22.5° regular elbow
2" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
1- 45° street elbow
4.5" long piece of pipe
1- 90° regular elbow
3" long piece of pipe
1- 45° regular elbow
2.5" piece of pipe
1- 2"x2" Rubber Fernco Coupling
x" long piece of pipe to reach desired riser height
1- of whatever fitting you want as the topper.

Now to start disassembling stuff...

1. First lift the bed, and remove the pins off of the shock that holds it up. I went ahead and removed the shock all the way during my process cuz it required lowering and lifting the bed a bunch to check clearances. Removing the shock at least from 1 end allows the bed to tilt more to get it out of the way while working.

2. Remove all the plastic panel rivets (9 total) in the back cab cover by prying out the center section, then pull the rest out. Then use the T-40 torx to remove 2 bolts holding the bottom of the panel to the frame.



3. Next pull the panel out, and remove the factory belt intake snorkel. The ends of it should pull off where they are connected with little effort. There are 2 T-25 torx screws holding the snorkel tube to the panel. You can remove those, and throw the snorkel into the discard pile.




4. Next, remove the 6 T-25 torx screws holding the seat backs to the frame. Then you can pull the seat backs UP and OUT of their respective slots in the frame.





5. Remove the factory belt exhaust snorkel by loosening the hose clamp near the belt housing cover. Add to discard pile!




6. Remove the factory air intake tube by loosening the hose clamps at both ends, and pulling it off. Add to discard pile!

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
OK, now we are ready to start routing the new snorkels towards there new locations. Lets start with the air intake and belt intake. These are pretty simple.



1. Air Intake: Cut a 2" long piece of 2" pipe. this will stick into the factory rubber air intake tube. From that run a regular 90° elbow toward the passenger side and slightly back toward the back of the cab. Cut a 6.5" long piece of pipe and stick it into the 90. Next you will put the other 90 onto the end of the pipe, pointed straight up toward the top. The riser pipe should run right in line with the gap between the driver seat back, and middle seat back. Cut a 2.5" long piece of pipe and stick into the top of the 90. You will clamp the rubber coupling to this piece, then attach your riser up from there to the desired height. Top it off with your favorite fitting.

2. Belt Intake: Take a regular 45° elbow and stick the end of it directly into the factory rubber belt intake tube, right behind the center seat, without any piece of pipe in it. You will need the extra hose clamp that you bought (2.5"-3.5" OD clamp). It looks like the opening is too big, but the clamp will seal it up. Point the 45 toward passenger side, and slightly back toward back of cab. Then insert 5" long piece of pipe. From there, throw on a 45° street elbow, and point it straight up toward the top. Attach a 90° "tight" elbow to the street end of the 45 pointed toward drivers side of vehicle. Then a 2" long piece of pipe, followed by the other 45° street elbow, pointed back down toward the bottom. This configuration will loop around the lower mounting point of the center seat back, and still allow it to be bolted back up. The top center seat mount will not reach to bolt back up however. This is what it should look like.




Next we get to the belt exhaust snorkel. This is the fun one. Just take your time, route it carefully making sure that the bed has clearance to latch back down correctly, as well as having clearance above the engine exhaust manifold so your snorkel isn't too close. Start at the belt housing cover. slip the 3" x 2" rubber reducer onto the cover and tighten the hose clamp. You won't need to take this back off. from there you will have a short 2" long piece of pipe into the small side of the reducer, then a 22.5° regular elbow pointed straight towards the cab. Then you have another 2" long piece of pipe attached to a 90° regular elbow, pointed about 45° up towards passenger side of vehicle. Next slip the street end of a 45° street elbow into the end of the 90, pointed straight across toward passenger side of vehicle. From there you will insert a 4.5" long piece of pipe into the 45, and attach the other 90° regular elbow pointed up at 45° toward the cab. This is where it has to go through the back cab cover. If you get it lined up right, and carefully mark the spot it will go through, you can cut out a nice hole, and it won't be too noticeable. (see my photos below). From that 90, you need a 3" long piece of pipe, then a 45° regular elbow pointing straight up towards the top. This should point right at the direction you want the risers to go. Put a 2.5" piece of pipe into the top of the 45, then attach the other 2" x 2" Rubber Coupling to it. Then you just need to make your riser to your desired height, and whatever fitting you want on top.






After you have them all routed, test fit the back cab cover to make sure you cut you hole right. Also test fit the seat backs to make sure everything clears well. The air intake snorkel pushes out the back cab cover just slightly on mine, but not a big deal. Also where the pipes come out of the top of the seat, it makes the middle section of the seat stick out slightly, but not noticeable unless you look closely.

Once you are happy with the fit and routing. Go ahead and glue the pieces together, and paint them to whatever color you want them.

After they are dry, go ahead and mount them in their final locations. Secure the top risers to the frame with the conduit straps. And re-install the seat backs, and back cab cover. You should end up with a nice clean look when done.




 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
After you are happy with the snorkels themselves, you need to extend a few vent lines. I bought these tubes at Sears Hardware. The smaller tube was $2.99 for a roll of 10 ft., the larger was $0.49/ft.



1. The fuel tank vent is located right on top of the fuel tank. Just lift the driver's seat and remove the storage tray. The factory vent is just run straight up and the end is tucked into a hole in the frame. Remove this vent, and replace it with 4 ft of 5/16" ID clear vinyl tubing. I ran mine up behind the back cab cover, and straight up the air intake snorkel, then tucked it behind the frame support and zip tied it in place.




2. The rear diff vent is on the passenger side of the engine. It's very short and low, so this one must be moved up higher. I ran 6 ft of the 1/4" ID tube over the top of the engine to the Belt exhaust snorkel, then followed it up through the cab, and up behind the seat similar to the other vent. Then I tucked it in behind the frame support and zip tied it same as fuel vent.




3. The front diff vent is tucked in behind the radiator. I didn't have enough 1/4" tube left to run the whole length, so I spliced the remaining 4 ft that I had to the end of the existing vent, and routed it up under the hood and near the coolant overflow bottle. It should take about 8 ft to run it up there all the way from the vent. If you want it higher, you will need to measure how much tube you will need to get it where you want it. Once you figure out the route, just zip tie it in place and it should be good to go!





Last thing that SHOULD be done before water riding is to go through the entire vehicle, and put dielectric grease on all the connectors, spark plugs, and the air box lid. Also you need to seal off the little "duck bill" drain on the intake tube, it's right under the frame above the fuel tank. Just follow the air box tube up under the seat.

Hope this helps you out if you plan to snorkel your 900 XP.

*** Disclaimer: You are doing this at your own risk. If you get water inside your motor or belt, it's not my problem!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent write up!

Thanks. I worked hard to document to help others. Always easier with pics, parts lists, and step by step instruction!
 

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this needs to be a sticky. polaris425!!! I summon thee!!!!
 

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Awesome write up bud I have a friend that will prolly buy you a drink lol


. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a quick update. I haven't had any issues since install so far. I do need to track down an electrical connector that is getting wet when I go deep and puts it in limp mode and the engine light comes on. But as soon as I get out of the water, it goes off and runs fine.. crazy...
 
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