So many people have asked for this writeup I decided to post it here for everyone. Please read it completely as it was a work in progress and some changes were made by the end of the project. This is just one type of oil cooler and other types can be used.
_______________
ENGINE OIL COOLER
Oil Coolers. Some of us have them on our quads but most don’t. Listening to all the things our bikes are going through with seals, bearings, leaky gaskets, damaged cylinders, premature ring failures, cam & chain problems…etc sounded like the same type of things that happen to engines with high engine oil temperatures. Then I noticed HL had an engine oil cooler kit for the Brute Force…at a pretty penny so I waited. Then they dropped the line so I started looking to se what I could put together myself. I found an oil filter adapter on eBay and several roads lead me to Perma-Cool.com which is now out of business.. for the units themselves. After reading about what they can do for you and how Perma Cool’s coolers have an advantage over the rest,
I decided to see if I really needed one. Grabbed my Fluke equipment and out the door I went.. headed for the desert. Rode for about 45 minutes over several types of trails and hills and out on the flats for a little run. Stopped, killed it, took the dipstick out and stuck the Fluke probe way down in the oil. To my surprise it climbed up to 234.6 degrees, and I had not been really pushing it. This told me it could get even hotter.. which is already hot by Perna-Cool’s charts. Ok, so it looks like the Brute could use some help. Bought the oil filter adapter from ebay for about 45 bucks but I can't find one there anymore so here is a link to another that works.
http://www.etrailer.com/Engine-Oil-Coolers/Derale/D25772.html
and went back to Perma Cool’s web site to do some shopping. Alamo motorsports sells these coolers. They use the same one for engine and transmission coolers.
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/pmc/Cat_page09.html
They do have a universal ATV oil cooler, but the dimensions would have blocked a good portion of the air to the radiator, and we all know how good those stock radiators are. Better not block them too much. You guys with the HL triple-cores probably shouldn’t worry about it. They did however have the #1310, which was for a 125 horse engine and it was 14”x 3.5”x 1.5”. Perfect fit high either behind the radiator or in front. I bought it. When these two parts came in I just needed to get some 90 degree fittings, some hose & clamps. Because the airflow behind the radiator was so poor, I decided to mount it up front. Figured where I wanted to mount the cooler so I could still get most of the airflow to the radiator, then pulled the plastics. Pre-drilled some small holes and tapped them with some self tapping screws.
** UPDATE: SEE FINAL TEST RIDE NOTES BELOW ON LOCATION AND GUARD **
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler004.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler005.jpg
Then slotted the mounting holes just a bit on the cooler, installed the fittings and installed the oil filter adapter with the fitting pointing toward the lower radiator hose.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler001.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler007.jpg
Got some 1/8”(1/4 or 7/16 would have been better) black expanded metal from Lowe’s and cut a piece 10-1/8” x 10” marked and bent it to rap around the cooler then tied the back side with a couple of wire ties. This should protect it from any sticks or trees that might find their way in there, The tube is stout, bit those fins may get bent if you jam brush up in there. It is air restrictive though. A larger mesh would be better if you need something.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler009.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler010.jpg
Then mounted it and ran the lines starting at the cooler, down to the lower radiator hose and along the hose to the oil filter. Used two clamps per connection. Remember, the hot oil coming from the engine goes into the top cooler connection, and the return is always the lower connection.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler011.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler012.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler013.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler014.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler015.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler016.jpg
A note on the lines, the instructions call for 300psi rating or better. I first got just some 3/8” fuel line but changed to 3/8” Fuel injector line because it looked like the plain stuff was going to pop. The injector line I believe is rated at 100psi, but the temp it can handle is 275 I think. I later got the right stuff. See update below.
So, ran it in the shop without the plastics and it took another third if a quart to bring it back to full. Ran it for an hour around the place and check the oil temp. It only got up to 184. Then I put the plastics back on and ran it for another hour around the place. Now it got up to 192.4 . That’s still pretty good, except I would like it better if it was closer to 180. Taking the guard off would help. Still need to take it to the desert trails and test it hard. If it does get over 200, I will be taking that expanded metal guard off for sure.
In the meantime, it's high and out of sight. Can’t even see it. You guys with the HL radiators could probably mount it more in the center...especialy if yours radiators are top mounted. Here's a few shots moving lower each time.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler018.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler019.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler020.jpg
Have to get on the ground and look up into it to realy see it.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler021.jpg
One funny thing is that I have one exhaust valve on the rear cylinder that is set just a little loose so it ticks until it gets warmed up. Well, now it never stops ticking so the block is defiantly running cooler. Guess I’ll have to set the valve after all now.
So, the costs were:
Cooler -61.76, Filter Adaptor-45.00, fittings & clamps-12.00, 7 ' of line-28.00. That's about 146.76. The full sheet of black 1/8" expanded metal that I later didn't use.. another 18 bucks
I’ll be going out for a good test run in a few days and will report the results.
UPDATE: 5/22/09. The ride went well today however there were some adjustments made. After an hour of hard riding and climbing the oil temp was 222. Like I said earlier, if it went over 200, I was going to remove the guard, so I did on the trail. Another check an hour later showed it was down to 203. Still not under 200 and still a long way from 170, but much better then the 234 at the start. So I though..Now what? Lower the cooler so its more in the airstream? I had brought enough tools to remove the mounting screws. Lowered it down about 2" and used wire ties to hold in in place for now. The cooler bracket fit like it was made for it in a little craddle on the frame.
Rode for another hour and horse-beat it as best I could. Didn't bother the radiator at all or make the fan run any more often....in fact...it hardly ran at all! That brought the temp down to 183.2 degrees as long as I was moving. That's a 51 degree reduction. Close enough for me! When I ride it easy it will be even lower. It seems to like this lower temperature. I believe it ran better. Maybe something to do with less expanded engine parts or just lower combustion chamber temperatures, but it likes being under 200 degrees. The lines held up fine, but I did get peace of mind with these new hydrolic lines I had make-up at my local hydrolic shop. Good for 210 degrees F @ 3000psi (300 @below 100psi), armored in steel The lengths are 36" and 38".
Also got the right fittings for this new line. Both lines and the fittings for about $44.
I did not follow the lower radiator hose around the back side of that last frame just before the filter adaptor because ir was too tight of a bend in my opinion. Still wire-tied it to that frame though. Looked good and works just fine.
One other note, it had sat several days and I check the oil before starting it today, and it was still on the full mark...not over full...meaning the cooler did not drain back to the engine. It stayed full. Another plus. Should drain when the filter is off. Might take a little time though so do it hot.
So, same as above but no guard and mount it at least 2" lower and get the good lines. This was a great and needed mod to do. I believe your Brute will thank you with longer life, better performance and fewer seal problems.
Last edited by NMKAWIERIDER; November 12th, 2009 at 01:24 PM.
_______________
ENGINE OIL COOLER
Oil Coolers. Some of us have them on our quads but most don’t. Listening to all the things our bikes are going through with seals, bearings, leaky gaskets, damaged cylinders, premature ring failures, cam & chain problems…etc sounded like the same type of things that happen to engines with high engine oil temperatures. Then I noticed HL had an engine oil cooler kit for the Brute Force…at a pretty penny so I waited. Then they dropped the line so I started looking to se what I could put together myself. I found an oil filter adapter on eBay and several roads lead me to Perma-Cool.com which is now out of business.. for the units themselves. After reading about what they can do for you and how Perma Cool’s coolers have an advantage over the rest,
I decided to see if I really needed one. Grabbed my Fluke equipment and out the door I went.. headed for the desert. Rode for about 45 minutes over several types of trails and hills and out on the flats for a little run. Stopped, killed it, took the dipstick out and stuck the Fluke probe way down in the oil. To my surprise it climbed up to 234.6 degrees, and I had not been really pushing it. This told me it could get even hotter.. which is already hot by Perna-Cool’s charts. Ok, so it looks like the Brute could use some help. Bought the oil filter adapter from ebay for about 45 bucks but I can't find one there anymore so here is a link to another that works.
http://www.etrailer.com/Engine-Oil-Coolers/Derale/D25772.html
and went back to Perma Cool’s web site to do some shopping. Alamo motorsports sells these coolers. They use the same one for engine and transmission coolers.
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/pmc/Cat_page09.html
They do have a universal ATV oil cooler, but the dimensions would have blocked a good portion of the air to the radiator, and we all know how good those stock radiators are. Better not block them too much. You guys with the HL triple-cores probably shouldn’t worry about it. They did however have the #1310, which was for a 125 horse engine and it was 14”x 3.5”x 1.5”. Perfect fit high either behind the radiator or in front. I bought it. When these two parts came in I just needed to get some 90 degree fittings, some hose & clamps. Because the airflow behind the radiator was so poor, I decided to mount it up front. Figured where I wanted to mount the cooler so I could still get most of the airflow to the radiator, then pulled the plastics. Pre-drilled some small holes and tapped them with some self tapping screws.
** UPDATE: SEE FINAL TEST RIDE NOTES BELOW ON LOCATION AND GUARD **
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler004.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler005.jpg
Then slotted the mounting holes just a bit on the cooler, installed the fittings and installed the oil filter adapter with the fitting pointing toward the lower radiator hose.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler001.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler007.jpg
Got some 1/8”(1/4 or 7/16 would have been better) black expanded metal from Lowe’s and cut a piece 10-1/8” x 10” marked and bent it to rap around the cooler then tied the back side with a couple of wire ties. This should protect it from any sticks or trees that might find their way in there, The tube is stout, bit those fins may get bent if you jam brush up in there. It is air restrictive though. A larger mesh would be better if you need something.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler009.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler010.jpg
Then mounted it and ran the lines starting at the cooler, down to the lower radiator hose and along the hose to the oil filter. Used two clamps per connection. Remember, the hot oil coming from the engine goes into the top cooler connection, and the return is always the lower connection.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler011.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler012.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler013.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler014.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler015.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler016.jpg
A note on the lines, the instructions call for 300psi rating or better. I first got just some 3/8” fuel line but changed to 3/8” Fuel injector line because it looked like the plain stuff was going to pop. The injector line I believe is rated at 100psi, but the temp it can handle is 275 I think. I later got the right stuff. See update below.
So, ran it in the shop without the plastics and it took another third if a quart to bring it back to full. Ran it for an hour around the place and check the oil temp. It only got up to 184. Then I put the plastics back on and ran it for another hour around the place. Now it got up to 192.4 . That’s still pretty good, except I would like it better if it was closer to 180. Taking the guard off would help. Still need to take it to the desert trails and test it hard. If it does get over 200, I will be taking that expanded metal guard off for sure.
In the meantime, it's high and out of sight. Can’t even see it. You guys with the HL radiators could probably mount it more in the center...especialy if yours radiators are top mounted. Here's a few shots moving lower each time.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler018.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler019.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler020.jpg
Have to get on the ground and look up into it to realy see it.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler021.jpg
One funny thing is that I have one exhaust valve on the rear cylinder that is set just a little loose so it ticks until it gets warmed up. Well, now it never stops ticking so the block is defiantly running cooler. Guess I’ll have to set the valve after all now.
So, the costs were:
Cooler -61.76, Filter Adaptor-45.00, fittings & clamps-12.00, 7 ' of line-28.00. That's about 146.76. The full sheet of black 1/8" expanded metal that I later didn't use.. another 18 bucks
I’ll be going out for a good test run in a few days and will report the results.
UPDATE: 5/22/09. The ride went well today however there were some adjustments made. After an hour of hard riding and climbing the oil temp was 222. Like I said earlier, if it went over 200, I was going to remove the guard, so I did on the trail. Another check an hour later showed it was down to 203. Still not under 200 and still a long way from 170, but much better then the 234 at the start. So I though..Now what? Lower the cooler so its more in the airstream? I had brought enough tools to remove the mounting screws. Lowered it down about 2" and used wire ties to hold in in place for now. The cooler bracket fit like it was made for it in a little craddle on the frame.
Rode for another hour and horse-beat it as best I could. Didn't bother the radiator at all or make the fan run any more often....in fact...it hardly ran at all! That brought the temp down to 183.2 degrees as long as I was moving. That's a 51 degree reduction. Close enough for me! When I ride it easy it will be even lower. It seems to like this lower temperature. I believe it ran better. Maybe something to do with less expanded engine parts or just lower combustion chamber temperatures, but it likes being under 200 degrees. The lines held up fine, but I did get peace of mind with these new hydrolic lines I had make-up at my local hydrolic shop. Good for 210 degrees F @ 3000psi (300 @below 100psi), armored in steel The lengths are 36" and 38".
Also got the right fittings for this new line. Both lines and the fittings for about $44.
I did not follow the lower radiator hose around the back side of that last frame just before the filter adaptor because ir was too tight of a bend in my opinion. Still wire-tied it to that frame though. Looked good and works just fine.
One other note, it had sat several days and I check the oil before starting it today, and it was still on the full mark...not over full...meaning the cooler did not drain back to the engine. It stayed full. Another plus. Should drain when the filter is off. Might take a little time though so do it hot.
So, same as above but no guard and mount it at least 2" lower and get the good lines. This was a great and needed mod to do. I believe your Brute will thank you with longer life, better performance and fewer seal problems.
Last edited by NMKAWIERIDER; November 12th, 2009 at 01:24 PM.