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This is a very detailed post made BF Freak from the Kawie Central forum. With his permission i am adding it to the MIMB site. he did a great write up on this mod.



Installation of the YFZ450 Catch Can on the 05-07 Brute Force 750 & 650 (& probably the 08s & 09s)

First off it should be noted that it was my intention to copy as closely as possible, the design and installation that was done on the Yamaha YFZ450 as this was a proven design. Also, I intended to relocate the vent port from inside the air cleaner area to the outer part of the box as the YFZ has, so with this in mind, I also ordered the line, rubber grommet and pipe as well as the catch can.

Reduced: 80% of original size [ 640 x 480 ] - Click to view full image


Before you start, check that the catch can’s seam is not leaking. Just cover two of the holes with your fingers and blow in the other. The one I received did, and I just gave the seam a coat of high temp RTV and let it sit overnight.



Option choice. You can either do it as I did, or you can run the return line right back to the original port. If you choose to run the line back to the original port, you will need two line adaptors and about three feet of line, the other way only one adaptor and a foot of line.

You will want to go to the auto parts store and get a few things like:

1. One to three feet of ½” fuel line depending on which option you choose.
2. Either one or two, 5/8” to ½” adaptors depending on which option you choose.
3. An assortment of rubber caps to cap-off unused openings
4. Some small hose clamps that will go up to 7/8” and down to 3/8”
5. Some JB weld (You can use what ever you want, I just trust JB Weld)
6. You will need one body screw, no more then 1-7/8” long otherwise it will hit the filter.

Ok, lets start. I won't be able to post all the pics because there are limits, but just click on the links.

Pull your side plastics, both left and right, battery and battery box.

You will instantly see that there is no where on the shifter side of the air box to put this thing…anywhere. But there is lots of room on the other side, so lets do it over there!

Pull the stock vent tube off the airbox, pull the rear plug wire off and rout the line across the back side to the left side of the Brute. Then put the plug wire back on. If you will be doing it like I did, use one of your larger rubber caps and clamps and cap-off the original port now so you won’t forget.



Clean the left side of the air box as we will be marking it and using some JB on it soon.
Position the can as in this pic with the bottom well slopped to the back and mark it on top with soap stone. Also mark where you will be placing the mounting screw. This pic shows how I did mine but I have TPI slide vents that limit me on where I can place the can. You won’t be limited like this.



Now pre-drill your mounting screw hole and loosely mount the can to the air box. We will mount it better at the end when we are done fitting lines and such.


Next, cap-off the upper line port on the can. This was used on the YFZ for the oil tank vent which we do not have or need.

Next, use one of your adaptors and some ½” line with clamps, tie-in the breather line to the lower port of the can. If you are going to put the return line back to the original port, cut about 2” off the original line before making this connection, you will need it to adapt back to the original port.


Now, if you are going to run your line back to the original port on the box, just rig up your line back to the port and use your extra adapter and clamps to make the connection back at the original port. The half-inch line will tie onto the center port of the can with a clamp. Rout it back over near where the original vent line is coming across, then back to the port. After that you can jump to the final mounting section.

Ok, so you choose to do it as I did. Now we need to make a port in the air box. Custom cut the line you got with the can so it fits nicely without stress to a location at least an inch down from the lid and mark it.


Now the hole. First, take out your air cleaner to protect it and position a clean rag around the frame to keep anything from getting to the carbs. Remember to vacuum it out when this is all done. Now, with the pipe inserted in the grommet, the part the seals against the hole shows to be 5/8 or 16mm



So we want a hole just slightly smaller then that so it fits tight when assembled. I recommend drilling a small hole and sizing up until you find it tough to drill a clean hole, then use a course rat-tail file to finish the hole. Cleanup the edges and insert the grommet then the pipe, then install the line back to the can.




Ok, almost done. Check that the can is able to be in the marked position without any strain, check that the lines are positioned so as not to interfere with anything and that its all downhill for anything draining back from the can to the engine. Reinstall the battery box and battery. Make sure the line(s) are not pinched under the box.

Ok, remove the mounting screw and mix up a small amount of JB Weld. Place two small dots on the air box front and back where the can will set.


Re-mount the can and tighten down firmly but not too tight making sure the can is positioned on the marks you started with and is laying flat against the air box. Check the slope of the bottom one more time, then for good measure, place a tie or two around the frame and lines just for GP. Also with any extra JB Weld, dab some across the screw head to the body of the can. This will ensure it stays tight.



That’s it!! Put all your plastics back on, let the JB set over night, then go for it !!

Here is a shot of what it looks like under the plastic. I took this one kind behind the front tire looking back through the plastic. Plenty of room still.

This whole mod should cost you less then 30 bucks and there will be no more oil getting into the air box ..at least by any normal means.

I fired mine up after it was together, and it runs perfectly. In fact, it just may be a bit more snappy. Before I started I placed a vacuum /pressure gauge on the dipsick hole to see what was going on expecting to see a vacuum on the crankcase at higher RPMs but that was not the case. The guage swung wildly both sides of zero and stabilized at zero about 700 RPMs off idle. A test after installing this catch can showed the only change was it zeroed out at about 200 RPMs above idle. Here is an mpeg I shot with my still camera. Might have to see it a few times to see the needle. The zero spot is that black line at the bottom.
YFZ450Catchcan pictures by BFFreak_2008 - Photobucket


UPDATE

Field Test:

Objective: To capture any and all oil before getting into the airbox from the cranckcase vent tube from high rpms at steep angles such as wheelies, long steep hill climbs and return it to the crankcase while maintaining positive crankcase ventilization.

On Sunday, 4/5/09 we took it to the hills & desert. Because there was a concern that there was too much crankcase pressure to plug the top port on the can, I mounted the pressure/vacuum guage to the port and taped it to the pod to keep an eye on it as it was said the can would crack under the pressure. I also filled my crankcase back to where I like it, not just full when the stick is screwed in, but on the full mark without screwing the stick in.

I rode in back of the pack so I could coat the inside of my box with dust which would stick on any oil or oil vapor that entered the port, which I fully expected to see.

We climbed in high, we climbed in low, we wheelied as far as we could go, we drag raced..and of course...I won every time (no other Brutes in my croud). We beat the Brute hard enough to use a tank of gas in 35 miles. Here's a crapy vid on one hill climb in high. Keep in mind these are all done just with a Sony still cam that can shoot .mpeg. The hills are realy much steeper then they look in these vids. Wonder why that is.
Vidios :: MOV01698.flv video by BFFreak_2008 - Photobucket
Here's one with it mounted to the front.
Vidios :: 92508southern012.flv video by BFFreak_2008 - Photobucket
After every run, we check the port in the airbox to see how much oil got in and this is all we ever found.

Nothing...ZERO oil, not even signs of vapor. Nothing for the dust to stick to. Wierd!
And never under any condition did the guage ever read anything other then ZERO. No readable pressure or vacuum.

At home I hooked & lifted the Brute as high as I dared and ran it hard for at least a minute. Here's a vid on that.
YFZ450Catchcan :: YFZTest2.flv video by BFFreak_2008 - Photobucket

After that I took the left plastic off to inspect the unit. I found it was the same as installed, no cracks, no damage, had not moved or leaked. I pulled off the bottom/crankcase vent tube to see if in fact oil had gotten into the can. It had. There was a film of oil on the botton of the can, but there was no pooling or standing oil in the can or any line. Any oil that did get to the can did drain back to the engine.

Conclusion: A Question. Did the installation meet the objective? YES is the only answer this owner can give. I was unable to get any oil into my airbox no matter how hard I was on or what I did to the Brute. It did drain back, and it did maintain positive crankcase ventilation. Therefore, there is only one classification for this install- WAD. "Worked As Designed". Remember, this was an install on a stock 06 BF 750 in good shape. Engine modifications or excessivley worn engines may return a different result. Test your pressures first. You may need to vent the top port of your catchcan.

Good luck with your install.
 

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superb. i know a lot of people are going to comment on that last vid...
thanks for posting this. We're the best ATV info repository on the net :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Guys i think its worth mentioning after reading a few comments from other forums that this may not be the best way to add the catch can on built/high compression engines. If your running a high compression engine thats really pumping a lot of oil up the crank case vent line it would be best to hook the crank case vent to the center tube of the can. Tap and add a fitting into the front valve cover and add a return line from the valve cover to the bottom tubing on the catch can. Then run a vent from the top tube of the can to the handle bars or top of snorkels. Maybe someone can provide us with a good write up of this version as well.

Heres a pic provided by RPM on kawiecentral.



For the normal rider with a stock machine thats just wanting to stop the oil from getting in the air box occasionally BF Freaks version of this mod should be fine and easy to do.

Hope this clears up any confusion.
 

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That is exactly what I was thinking Metal Man. I would do it that way regardless. With the other style when it is puking up oil it isn't going to be able to vent the crankcase as well as if he had ran it like in the picture metal man posted. We already have enough seal problems as it is. Just my $0.02.
 

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That is exactly what I was thinking Metal Man. I would do it that way regardless. With the other style when it is puking up oil it isn't going to be able to vent the crankcase as well as if he had ran it like in the picture metal man posted. We already have enough seal problems as it is. Just my $0.02.

Yes exactly. You need to have a vent that stays open all the time and not blocked by oil!! definitely do it like in the picture metal man posted or my way posted in the how-to's. and also it needs to be filtered like mine. having it sit in the nonfiltered side of the air box is not a good idea!! like shown above!
 

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he didnt.
he ran the crankcase vent tube to the catch can, then he plugged up the one tube on the catch can, and the 3rd tube he ran back to the air box.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is BF Freaks mod. His intension's are that the oil will run back down the same vent hose that it came up with out having it get in the air box.

Basically the same thing as running the crank vent line up to the handle bars.If your only get oil in your air box once in the blue moon then this mod well work fine.

But if it a real problem and your pumping a lot of oil into the air box regularly then you will need to do the catch can mod by add a drain line back to the engine.This can be done a few different ways but the easiest is by adding a drain line to the rear intake inspection cover.
 

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so were there is no need to drill into the airbox right?
 

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so were there is no need to drill into the airbox right?
You don't have to. You can put the line right back where it originaly was. In fact, If I had it to do over again, I would...But, its been a few years now, and this mod has never failed me. Worked perfectly and never any oil in the box....yeah..I was once BF Freak... :)
 
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Hey, awesome write up guys!! I always heard of the "catch can mod" but never realy understood what exactly it was for...now i know. I'll have to check my Brute now. Anyone got any pics of the where they tapped back into the motor? I would like to see the drain line going back to the motor. I think BF FREAK's way would work for me, but while i'm at i might as well do it the other way just incase i decide to install a big bore kit or something down the line...
 

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if oil gets puked in the air box and burned will this hurt the motor?
 

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so is this water proof like if i want to ride in water up to my snorkles
 

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so is this water proof like if i want to ride in water up to my snorkles
As long as the unused port on the can is sealed...yes, completely. And one other thing, If I had it to do over again, I would just run the breather line right back to the original spot on the box and not port that line in the side.
 

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Guys i think its worth mentioning after reading a few comments from other forums that this may not be the best way to add the catch can on built/high compression engines. If your running a high compression engine thats really pumping a lot of oil up the crank case vent line it would be best to hook the crank case vent to the center tube of the can. Tap and add a fitting into the front valve cover and add a return line from the valve cover to the bottom tubing on the catch can. Then run a vent from the top tube of the can to the handle bars or top of snorkels. Maybe someone can provide us with a good write up of this version as well.

Heres a pic provided by RPM on kawiecentral.



For the normal rider with a stock machine thats just wanting to stop the oil from getting in the air box occasionally BF Freaks version of this mod should be fine and easy to do.

Hope this clears up any confusion.
What's the can mounted to and how?
 

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I can't find the 1/2in any where, been to 4 different stores, any other suggestions
 
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