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Thanks Guys.. Im handy and creative, but was completely amazed that the brackets had the holes in the perfect location already!...

Plus my brute was already snorkled when I got it, and not done up at the nice blck cover like the MIMB snorkels, so a 40* angle would have the rad hanging over the front rack....

These brackets have that crossbar, so they should be plenty sturdy..

Will test it this weekend hopefully..
 
Rode for about 5 hours straight yesterday... Hauled *** all day with ZERo issues....

Mount was rock solid...

In testing, I let the bike idle for over 10 minutes and it did not puke a drop.. Previously, before relocation, she would start puking after 5 minutes of idle time...

**EDIT to ad** I did extend my wiring harness lines.. The fan harness "may" have reached, btu I was more comfortable with a little extra, besides, its only two wires on the fan, and two wires on the temp sensor (Info tip number 2- I used a 4 prong trailer harness cut in half with plugs directly into the factory harness female ends...) Not sure if the factory fan relay is still working, as I have a manual switch I use whenever I am riding, but,.....
 
I'm just about done with racking my Rad. Do you guys leave the shroud in or take it out ?
 
Well just went threw all 9 pages of this how to .... alot of great looking kits and how to's are awesome .... 2 thumbs up for everyones idea's and so forth .

I have a question though , I am in the middle of doing a rad relocate ( wildboar) , I am not as handy as most on here and dont have a welder and so forth , so I purchased a kit , plus I am crazy busy with work and time alone with the Brute is at a premium right now lol .

So back to my question , the 2 wires that run to the temp switch on the top left corner of the rad , do I need to extend them ? Or are they long enough to reach afetr the rad is moved to the rack ? Also , the plug for the fan , do I need to cut the connector off and splice in longer wires to reach the fan ? It doesnt look like it will reach the mating connector below the plastic which is wrapped up with a bunch of other wires . Or do I strip back the wrapping and re-route the mating fan connector so it will reach the connector coming off the fan ?

I know someone else on Page 3 asked this , but I am still unsure and want to make sure I do it right before hacking up wires and stuff.
 
Well just went threw all 9 pages of this how to .... alot of great looking kits and how to's are awesome .... 2 thumbs up for everyones idea's and so forth .

I have a question though , I am in the middle of doing a rad relocate ( wildboar) , I am not as handy as most on here and dont have a welder and so forth , so I purchased a kit , plus I am crazy busy with work and time alone with the Brute is at a premium right now lol .

So back to my question , the 2 wires that run to the temp switch on the top left corner of the rad , do I need to extend them ? Or are they long enough to reach afetr the rad is moved to the rack ? Also , the plug for the fan , do I need to cut the connector off and splice in longer wires to reach the fan ? It doesnt look like it will reach the mating connector below the plastic which is wrapped up with a bunch of other wires . Or do I strip back the wrapping and re-route the mating fan connector so it will reach the connector coming off the fan ?

I know someone else on Page 3 asked this , but I am still unsure and want to make sure I do it right before hacking up wires and stuff.
I am trying to figure the same thing so if you find anything post on here or pm me
 
UrbanKnight you da man!!! haha Thanks for posting up the little how to for the brackets! Saved me alot of $$$ cause i cant weld for **** and was about to buy a kit... Thanks alot bud!
 
i must have missed it... but what degree does the rad need to be leaning back?
 
i must have missed it... but what degree does the rad need to be leaning back?
Don't think it really matters as long as you have a fan behind it.

Sent from my C771
 
oh ok man thanks.. im going to do mine soon..
 
Got it done finally! Thanks Steve, urbanknight and others for the confidence and know-how for this project. If anyone feels intimidated about this project, don't be, I didn't need any special tools. All I used was a Dremel and a drill with a 1/2" bit (i didn't have a 5/8" bit with me). To bend the pieces, I used the safety loops on my truck receiver hitch:).




Sent from my DROID BIONIC
 
started on mine last night. I had to change mine up a little bit because of a previous roll over tweaked my radiator and it wasn't exactly square anymore. I actually welded the brackets to my front rack instead of the u bolts. I had to because of bolts on the front rack would not allow me to have enough spacing for the u-bolts. I forgot to shoot and other pics, I'm waiting on my paint to dry to finish. I also reused the top bolts, but I put a nut and washer on the back instead of tapping the bracket. I painted my oe radiator guard to match my team green and painted the sides of the radiator with rustoleum truck bed liner from wal mart (EXCELLENT product if you have never used it)

 
I would like to add that in the right up that Steve didn't put what size hole saw to use to drill in the plastic. If I could add that if you use a 1 1/2 hole saw and you want a oem style looking rubber grommet McMaster-Carr part number: 9600K72

I had a heck of a time trying to find a nice grommet that would fit and this is the best fit that I have came up with.
 
I wanna lay mine back kinna like the can-am xmrs, I shouldn't run into any issues with that would I???
 
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