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This how to is intended for users of MIMB ONLY, it is based off of a current production kit with minor changes.
NOTE: I do not know ANY of the names of the PVC couplers, so please excuse my layman terms!
This relocates the Air and CVT Intake 12" higher than stock, and the CVT Exhaust 20" higher than stock.
It increases the Air intake diameter to 2", which results in no HP loss, from bends in snorkel.
Remove all burrs and stickers so they do not get sucked into airbox and CVT.
Test fit all pieces before final gluing.
Placing hand over finshed air intake with ATV at idle, is a good procedure for testing leaks on air intake only. ATV should stall out.
Review all pictures and pieces before installing.
First things first...parts list!!!
I got all this at Lowes. They have the short sweep connectors. DO NOT ATTEMPT to do this without them...you can get all the way to the pod but it won't allow the cvt exhaust to be in the right place.
Airbox
Metal exhaust adapter 1.5"
1.5" to 1.5" rubber coupler
(2)1.5" 22.5* male to female
1.5-2" PVC adapter
Cvt exhaust (left side)
2" metal shielded rubber coupler
1.5" 90*
1.5" 45*
1.5" 90*
1.5" 90* female to male
1.5" 90* female to female
For the riser you need:
1.5" 90*
1.5" slip coupler
(2) 1.5" 45
Cvt intake
2" Rubber coupler (to be able to remove snorkels)
2" to 1.5 PVC adapter
1.5" 90 male to female
1.5" 90*
1.5" 90* male to female
22.5 female to female
For the riser you need:
1.5" 90*
1.5" slip coupler
(2) 1.5" 45
Step 1: remove side panels and prep bike for installation of snorkel by removing stock CVT intake snorkel, and the boot on the CVT exhaust snorkel.
Cut the air intake snorkel to a length of 4"
Cut the under-hood plastics as specified in the pictures
Trim off tabs on airbox as specified in pictures, it is easiest to use a grinder
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE IT, I AM SHOWING THESE PICTURES SO YOU GET A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT TO CUT
Now cut out the pod for the snorkels. I do this first so that I line everything up correctly.
Use a 2.5" hole saw for the center snorkel, and a 2.25" hole saw for the cvt's
Now for the snorkels...
Airbox:
Cut off the stock airbox tube so that only 4" is left on it
Slide in the metal coupler and clamp it down
Slide the 1.5" rubber coupler over that
Now assemble the airbox snorkel
Use a short piece of PVC to slip into the rubber coupler
Connected to EITHER two male to female 22.5's or two regular 22.5's. It depends what you can source, the male to female 22.5's do give you a lot more room for the CVT snorkel to cross under!!!
Then a short piece of PVC to the 1.5-2 adapter
Test fit this all together
NEXT the CVT intake
With the stock CVT intake removed, leaving the boot on the cvt cover, you will re use the stock boot. It is plenty strong and seals great.
You are going to assemble a 1.5-2 adapater, the 2" part goes into the cvt cover and gets clamped down
Then a 1.5" 90 male to female
A short riser to go over the power steering
Two 90* 1.5's, one is male to female, one is female to female, this will get you up around the power steering
A short piece of PVC for the rubber coupler to connect to (so you can break the snorkels apart)
Then the rubber coupler, and then a riser to the airbox area
A short sweep 90* 1.5"
A short piece of pvc to go across to the right side
Then to a 45* female to female which is where you snorkel riser will connect to
Next is the CVT Exhaust
Use a 2" shielded rubber coupler onto the stock CVT exhaust tube
To a 1.5" 90
Short piece of PVC
1.5" 45*
Short piece of PVC
To a 1.5" 90*
Small piece of PVC
To the rubber coupler
Then a riser up to the airbox area
Then a short sweep male to female 90, then a short sweep female to female 90
Under the pod
The only vent line I re-routed was the front diff, all others were fine.
USE di-electric grease on all connectors, including ignition and ECU
NOTE: I do not know ANY of the names of the PVC couplers, so please excuse my layman terms!
This relocates the Air and CVT Intake 12" higher than stock, and the CVT Exhaust 20" higher than stock.
It increases the Air intake diameter to 2", which results in no HP loss, from bends in snorkel.
Remove all burrs and stickers so they do not get sucked into airbox and CVT.
Test fit all pieces before final gluing.
Placing hand over finshed air intake with ATV at idle, is a good procedure for testing leaks on air intake only. ATV should stall out.
Review all pictures and pieces before installing.
First things first...parts list!!!
I got all this at Lowes. They have the short sweep connectors. DO NOT ATTEMPT to do this without them...you can get all the way to the pod but it won't allow the cvt exhaust to be in the right place.
Airbox
Metal exhaust adapter 1.5"
1.5" to 1.5" rubber coupler
(2)1.5" 22.5* male to female
1.5-2" PVC adapter
Cvt exhaust (left side)
2" metal shielded rubber coupler
1.5" 90*
1.5" 45*
1.5" 90*
1.5" 90* female to male
1.5" 90* female to female
For the riser you need:
1.5" 90*
1.5" slip coupler
(2) 1.5" 45
Cvt intake
2" Rubber coupler (to be able to remove snorkels)
2" to 1.5 PVC adapter
1.5" 90 male to female
1.5" 90*
1.5" 90* male to female
22.5 female to female
For the riser you need:
1.5" 90*
1.5" slip coupler
(2) 1.5" 45
Step 1: remove side panels and prep bike for installation of snorkel by removing stock CVT intake snorkel, and the boot on the CVT exhaust snorkel.
Cut the air intake snorkel to a length of 4"
Cut the under-hood plastics as specified in the pictures
Trim off tabs on airbox as specified in pictures, it is easiest to use a grinder




YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE IT, I AM SHOWING THESE PICTURES SO YOU GET A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT TO CUT









Now cut out the pod for the snorkels. I do this first so that I line everything up correctly.
Use a 2.5" hole saw for the center snorkel, and a 2.25" hole saw for the cvt's

Now for the snorkels...
Airbox:
Cut off the stock airbox tube so that only 4" is left on it
Slide in the metal coupler and clamp it down
Slide the 1.5" rubber coupler over that
Now assemble the airbox snorkel

Use a short piece of PVC to slip into the rubber coupler
Connected to EITHER two male to female 22.5's or two regular 22.5's. It depends what you can source, the male to female 22.5's do give you a lot more room for the CVT snorkel to cross under!!!
Then a short piece of PVC to the 1.5-2 adapter
Test fit this all together
NEXT the CVT intake
With the stock CVT intake removed, leaving the boot on the cvt cover, you will re use the stock boot. It is plenty strong and seals great.
You are going to assemble a 1.5-2 adapater, the 2" part goes into the cvt cover and gets clamped down
Then a 1.5" 90 male to female
A short riser to go over the power steering
Two 90* 1.5's, one is male to female, one is female to female, this will get you up around the power steering
A short piece of PVC for the rubber coupler to connect to (so you can break the snorkels apart)
Then the rubber coupler, and then a riser to the airbox area
A short sweep 90* 1.5"
A short piece of pvc to go across to the right side
Then to a 45* female to female which is where you snorkel riser will connect to




Next is the CVT Exhaust
Use a 2" shielded rubber coupler onto the stock CVT exhaust tube
To a 1.5" 90
Short piece of PVC
1.5" 45*
Short piece of PVC
To a 1.5" 90*
Small piece of PVC
To the rubber coupler
Then a riser up to the airbox area
Then a short sweep male to female 90, then a short sweep female to female 90





Under the pod










The only vent line I re-routed was the front diff, all others were fine.
USE di-electric grease on all connectors, including ignition and ECU