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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2000 Honda rancher 350 4x4 es. I got it for a steal. First bike I've ever bought. It's sittin on 27" outlaws. It's got a snorkel, a 2" lift, a clutch kit and a brand new top end because the last guy used it as a submarine.

I replaced the piston, rings, valves, and bored the head 30 over. I put it all back together today and it's got a fast tap from the top end. I took it back apart and re adjusted the valves. That wasnt the problem cause when i put it back together again it was not any better. It also seems to be taking far too many rpm's to get moving. Any ideas on what i should check next.
Oh i also blew out the weep holes for oil to drip onto the valves and no blockages. I opened the cover and started the motor. Then poured oil directly onto the valves but that didn't quiet it at all. Is there a break in period in which these should sound bad or what? What about the high rpm's? Any ideas? Any help u can offer would be great, this makes the second trip i will have missed cause i can't figure this crap out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh that makes sense crwbrute. Thanks

---------- Post added at 06:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 AM ----------

Walker, I gotta Clymer manual...read a little work a little kinda thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My clymer didn't say what to set the valves to so i youtubed it and set them both to .006 with a feeler gauge. U think that is the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks a bunch guys. I will try resetting the valves the old fashioned way and changing the oil today to see if that helps.
Narfbrain, I had the valves, piston, and cylinder professionally done. I just had to reinstall them(circlips were a b) I did set off the tdc mark. I will try it the old fashioned way. When i say that the bike is running high rpm's before it actually goes that's pretty much it. It revved up real high then finally stared moving and didn't feel as if it had any power till the higher rpms like a power band or something. As far as whether is slipping our not i really don't know what that feels like. I can tell you that when i hit second gear it hit pretty hard so I'm thinking it's not slipping. I'm thinking it's the stall converter or whatever is actually in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Narfbrain I'm not sure what oil is in the bike now but what I'm fixin to put in it is the stud from the dealership and it's viscocity is 10w40. It says for wet clutches on the can.
A far as the rebuild goes. I got the bike with the rings washedout and blowing straight oil out the pipe. I dismantled the bike down to engine only left in the frame pretty much and removed the while top end including piston. I took the cylinder, piston, and head work the valves in it to a local trusted machine shop. They bored the cylinder, got me an oversized piston, rings and put in a new set of valves. I oh and they ez outed a valve civer bokt out for me. I got it all back and put it all back together and forget to space the valves. So i pulled it back apart and broke another valve cover bolt off. I bought an ez out and promptly broke it off down in the hole. I sent the head off to be edm'd and received it back in a few days ago. I put it all back together adjusted the valves probably five different times before i gave up for the day. I did drive it just to see if it would quiet down but it never did. On this test drive us when i found it to be dogging. I called the previous owner and he said that it was probably the clutch kit. I think it's probably the oil like u said and as far as the rattling valves I'm still not to sure what to do but try adjusting them again. I'm about to change the oil now and put in the atv oil and test drive it again. Then I'm gonna tackle these valves and I'll let you know what the situation looks like.
When u say "proper" break in what do u mean exactly?
Thanks for all ur help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep sure does...oh and when i pulled the oil filter cover off i found that there wasn't even an oil filter in there...smh! I haven't had time to try the screw driver method yet but I'm going to get it tonight. I'll let ya know when i do get time how it goes. I also found that the recoil starter is frozen up from being full of mud so I'm trying to find one of those now too. I think i know why this bike was so cheap but by the time i get through it I'm gonna know this thing like the back if my hand and hopefully have a good dependable bike to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep I'm starting to get a little better at tearing this for wheeler apart. It took me 47 minutes to go from it all the way put together to having the head off of it and tools cleaned up. Lol
I stripped out the hole that the machine shop removed the broken bolt lt and ez out from. Evidently they retapped it bad or something. Gonna put in a helicoil and I'll be riding by this weekend hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok so today i got all my parts in and put back on. I was able to use the old fashioned method to get to tdc. I found our from the guy at RPM Motorsports that I was seeing the valves too high thus the chatter. I rest to his recommended 0.002(loose) for intake and 0.003(right) for exhaust and she is pouring like a kitten. Me and my son rode all over today and he really likes pulling wheelies...small ones of course. Thanks for all of y'all who helped me out, especially narfbrain!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Sorry it's been s while since i logged in to check on the forums. I've got everything sorted out now and running really good. Made friends with a local ATV mechanic and we looked the bike over together and agree that everything is looking good. Now I'm setting my ride up with some tunes and a backrest to hold all my stuff and give my little one a comfortable place to sit while riding. I do think though that I'm going to start working on setting up a trade to get some skinny laws to help get the back tires moving a bit more. Also still have to work on sealing up the pull start and put dielectruc grease in all my electrical connections. Thanks again
 
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