Doesn't need to be going up a hill just read it when the bike is still under load.
I had 2 issues with mine.
1. my big connector that connects to the sensor would not click shut, don't know why but it wouldn't make it all the way no matter how hard I pushed(dry no grease holding it right out of the box) So I just loaded it up with dielectric grease and put some tape on it to hold it together.
2. I had problems as I kept getting the E9 error code which means low voltage, I talked to Vforcejohn about it as he recommended it to me and he told me to wire it direct to battery with a switch, I had mine off a switched source (I think accessory plug) and it was no good. Every other run I did I couldn't get any results because it was low voltage, as well it made my idle up or down because it was drawing so much power.
Edit: AND I forgot to mention it made it take really really long to heat up after you turn the key, john told me hooking it direct to battery with a switch would fix all the problems but by the time I talked to him about it I was done tuning so I took it off.
Other then that, it worked good. Never got any water damage and always gave me good numbers.
Well I have always used the wide band commander , on all my race applications and it's an awesome setup . Just curious if this would be a good tool to use , I don't have a dyno anymore and I'm sure not putting the wideband commander on a wheeler to ruin in the mud . Filthy I'll let ya know how it works out , I can always drop it in the mail if you need to use it , I bought the clamp for the tail pipe as well as 10 extra bungs , I'm not leaving it on the bike,
^ alright, thats all I want it for is to get a good tune to run instead of going and paying out the arse to get it done. Need to setup the gade, and outty. Would also like to do the brutes, but I need to buy the equipment lol.
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