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Kawasaki Prairie 360 purchase

3457 Views 43 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  snopro8000, 
snopro8000
Hey everyone,

Purchasing a Kawasaki prairie 360 4x4 from my brother in law. Needs some work but I got it running and moving with the pull start. Needs carbs cleaned and fuel lines and or carb replaced. Not worried about that. While it’s running the dash lights work and the head lights work. Used kill switch to turn off along with ignition. (Thinking ignition key switch is good then?)

4wd doesn’t appear to work (guessing actuator or kbec, I should be able to figure that out).

I have to get it home still but this is the biggest problem: I put a new battery in it, turn key and no dash lights come on, kbec doesn’t whine, head lights won’t flip on, and of course won’t crank to start. So looking at bad connection at key (guessing not the issue) or a bad ignition. I don’t think the main fuse would be bad since it all works when pull started.

I have to check all fuses of course and the ignition box and connection.

I am excited to fix this and sell it. He’s happy to get it out of the shed.

This isn’t my first rodeo, I’ve worked on our previous brute force. I do all my own work on my can am and the newer brute force as well.



———————



Alright update: new spark plug and air filter. Found 1 of the 2 tube fuses bad and replaced with with one that was tagged to the wire(30amp). Still no ignition.

Jumped stater solenoid and starter spins freely without issue. Does not engage.

Wires all look good from what I can tell. Tested 12volts to starter solenoid. Contacts look great, no corrosion.

Here is a pic of the solenoid. Though I had to reverse the polarity on the probes to get positive 12+ volts…. Odd?

Pic of stater solenoid (contacts are clean and good)


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snopro8000
Got it home. The cab bow is wet with fuel, so guessing the gasket it toast. I’ll likely order the rebuild kit or a whole new carb (they really aren’t expensive). Going to have to check fuel shut off too, those are notorious for leaking.


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snopro8000
More research shows it may be the solenoid on the stater. I’ll likely be replacing it. Also need to reset belt light and likely replace the 2wd/4wd switch and maybe delete the kbec.

Both are flashing



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snopro8000
Since the starter spins freely jumping the solenoid, I assume I will be removing the side cover to the engine to inspect gears, replace as necessary along with likely the stater motor.


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snopro8000
Found a bad ground and fixed it but still blows the main 30amp fuse as soon as I turn the ignition on. Found a bare wire for the heating element on the bowl, didn’t look awful, but I fixed it. Guess I have to trace more wires. Likely up by the handlebar I’m guessing.

This is the is the main ground off the battery. Cleaned it up and reattached.



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NMKawierider
You need a wiring diagram. If it only blows the main when the key is turned on..just to the run position...and no other fuses are blowing, then the problem is between the switch and the distribution fuse box....or something else that is tied to the keyed power of that switch..and it's a bad short.
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snopro8000
Thanks for the reply as always, you are very knowledgeable!

I have a wiring diagram and will starting with this method first:

Replace fuse and start to unplug things one at a time:

Starter
CDI
4wd switch
Igniter coil
Headlights


I don’t at this time know what the relays are under the seat by the CDI.

I will be removing more plastics and checking wiring. I have removed the wiring for the winch to rule that out, as the winch is actually no longer on the machine.

At this point like you said it has to be a wire or some type of accessory.


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snopro8000



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snopro8000
So after testing a lot of accessories and blowing fuses… (checked a ton of wires too.)

I unhoooked the voltage regulator and have life on the dash. Starter spins when pushed but won’t engage. I assume my voltage regulator is bad?


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NMKawierider
snopro8000 said:
So after testing a lot of accessories and blowing fuses… (checked a ton of wires too.)

I unhoooked the voltage regulator and have life on the dash. Starter spins when pushed but won’t engage. I assume my voltage regulator is bad?


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When you say "won't engage" does that mean the starter spins but won't turn over the engine or just clicks...or not even a click?
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snopro8000
Sorry if that wasn’t clear. What i meant to say is: with the voltage rectifier unhooked, I can push the starter button and the starter spins freely, without turning the engine over.

Ignore gas tank removed along with ignition key/switch.

Green light and red light are on. Headlights flip on also.




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snopro8000
I think I’ll pull the starter first since that’s pretty easy, check the teeth. If those are good the cover will have to come off the side of the engine.

Still hoping the new rectifier is my ignition problem.


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NMKawierider
Starter spinning freely without turning the engine means either there is a broken one-way sprag, some broken teeth on one drive gear (usually the large one) or the rotor has sheared it's key and is spinning on the crank.
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snopro8000
Looks like I’ll need a flywheel puller

57001–1405

To get the flywheel off, if I have to get behind it.

First and foremost I still need to fix the ignition system.


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snopro8000
So let’s get back to topic….

I tried unplugging multiple accessories and blew the 30amp fuse each time I turned the key to on:

Igniter coil
Cig lighter
Starter
CDI


I unplugged the rectifier and it doesn’t blow. I am l going to try a new rectifier but I’m not sold that is indeed the issue.

Machine has brand new plug, starter relay, 4x4 switch, and carb.

Even with the main 30a fuse blown, the machine pull starts and runs, but in limp mode (4wd and belt lights flashing, rev limit set). Key kills machine when turned to off, kill switch alway works to kill.


The 10a fuse does not blow at all.

I have inspected a lot of the wiring and it all looks good, I have a few more that need inspection, including: stator, oil pressure, 4wd actuator.


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NMKawierider
From what I know, all system power, not the starter, is pulled through the main fuse. After that it there is the key switch which sends power to some of the distribution fuses and as well as some some of those also get power straight from the main fuse circuit. I also know that the Rectifier/regulator takes 3-phase AC power from the stator, inverts it to DC, and regulates it straight into the systems power supply...which is also the same line as the main 30 amp fuse. With the fuse blown and the rectifier unplugged it should NOT be able to run as there should be NO system power so..something up there if it does. If the rectifier is plugged in it can still get power from the stator to run though. Does this have a winch? If so where is the contactor power coming from? Disconnect it as they have been known to get water inside and short out.
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snopro8000
It does not run with the rectifier removed. I figured this would be the case. Your info confirms. I understand what the rectifier does, which makes me confused why the switch didn’t blow. My only though is the rectifier has a short internally.

It had a winch, but I removed all wiring and confirmed the tap point (key hot wire) good.


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NMKawierider
snopro8000 said:
It does not run with the rectifier removed. I figured this would be the case. Your info confirms. I understand what the rectifier does, which makes me confused why the switch didn’t blow. My only though is the rectifier has a short internally.

It had a winch, but I removed all wiring and confirmed the tap point (key hot wire) good.


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I just cant see a shorted recitfier still able to supply power to run from the stator...but stranger things have happened. Is there any buss connectors on those old machines?
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snopro8000
I 100% agree and ran that through my head also.

I haven’t found a buss yet. I have a bad feeling there is a wire rubbed that I may not be able to find. The harness really isn’t complicated though.

For a 2005 the wire harness is in great shape. Factory covers (over wire bundles) are still in place along with factory re usable zip strips.

No way will I get lucky with the recitifier. It’s never simple is it

I’ll likely end up pulling the plastics all off and going over every inch. Something to tinker on which is ok. Likely not until spring.

I was really hoping the bad ground I found (on frame) was it. Sadly not the case. The ground to the engine looks good too.

You don’t think an accessory could be the issue do you? I haven’t tried unhooking the kbec, belt switch, or the 4x4 actuator, oil cooler fab, and checking the fuse.


One thing I did note….. when the battery is hooked up I get a -12.xx volts. That is kind of telling me something is grounding out, right?


I think when the new rectifier comes I’ll try plugging the one connector into it that goes to the harness and leave the lead going to the stater disconnected and see what it does and then also try the opposite. I bought a boat load of fuses.


Last resort will be to bypass the fuse and watch for the smoke….


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NMKawierider
Hay...are you sure all the battery cables and leads are on the right posts?

If it's not blowing any distribution fuses the problem isn't after the box, it's before.
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