[NMKawierider]

You need a wiring diagram. If it only blows the main when the key is turned on..just to the run position...and no other fuses are blowing, then the problem is between the switch and the distribution fuse box....or something else that is tied to the keyed power of that switch..and it's a bad short.

 

[NMKawierider]

So after testing a lot of accessories and blowing fuses… (checked a ton of wires too.)

I unhoooked the voltage regulator and have life on the dash. Starter spins when pushed but won’t engage. I assume my voltage regulator is bad?


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When you say "won't engage" does that mean the starter spins but won't turn over the engine or just clicks...or not even a click?

 

[NMKawierider]

Starter spinning freely without turning the engine means either there is a broken one-way sprag, some broken teeth on one drive gear (usually the large one) or the rotor has sheared it's key and is spinning on the crank.

 

[NMKawierider]

From what I know, all system power, not the starter, is pulled through the main fuse. After that it there is the key switch which sends power to some of the distribution fuses and as well as some some of those also get power straight from the main fuse circuit. I also know that the Rectifier/regulator takes 3-phase AC power from the stator, inverts it to DC, and regulates it straight into the systems power supply...which is also the same line as the main 30 amp fuse. With the fuse blown and the rectifier unplugged it should NOT be able to run as there should be NO system power so..something up there if it does. If the rectifier is plugged in it can still get power from the stator to run though. Does this have a winch? If so where is the contactor power coming from? Disconnect it as they have been known to get water inside and short out.

 

[NMKawierider]

It does not run with the rectifier removed. I figured this would be the case. Your info confirms. I understand what the rectifier does, which makes me confused why the switch didn’t blow. My only though is the rectifier has a short internally.

It had a winch, but I removed all wiring and confirmed the tap point (key hot wire) good.


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I just cant see a shorted recitfier still able to supply power to run from the stator...but stranger things have happened. Is there any buss connectors on those old machines?

 

[NMKawierider]

Hay...are you sure all the battery cables and leads are on the right posts?

If it's not blowing any distribution fuses the problem isn't after the box, it's before.

 

[NMKawierider]

YES!!!..Congrats!

 

[NMKawierider]

Yeah it means there is a problem with one of the actuators or...the system itself..like a bad connection. How it's flashing will tell a lot. Go by this:

 

[NMKawierider]

Pulled the 4wd actuator out and completely pulled apart. Cleaned and greased and tested to 12 volts. Spins no problem. I’ll slap it back in but I doubt that was it lol.
Should not have greased the gears. They only move a little it but the grease adds load to the motor. Clean and no lube is how Kawasaki does it. You could use a dry lube like graphite.

I did get the 4wd light to go away for a bit with the boat load of belt resets I did. I may try a few more… see what happens.
Test the switch.

A few questions if you know off hand:

- is the front drive shaft to suppose all the time? (I assume so), actuator engaged diff and forces 4wd then. I’ll confirm front shaft spins later if you confirm my above logic.
Drive line connected directly to the bevel shaft so yes it will move as the transmission rotates. The actuator couples the shaft to the pinion.

-can I stick my finger in the hole and move the sheaves manually?
YES, you should be able to. If not, something is wrong.

Last thought: worst case I buy the sure 4 replacement and remove the actuator and use 4wd that way:
Brute Force - Prairie Sure 4 Manual 2WD 4WD Actuator Kit
Good product and best option when you can't get the OE parts to work correctly..IMO

 

[NMKawierider]

Kawasaki uses Keihin carbs.