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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I’m pretty sure…. But I can double check.

Would be a rookie mistake and I’d never live it down.


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
From the manual they are correct. It is possible the starter relay is backwards though.




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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’ll confirm the starter relay tomorrow. With the rectifier removed I can push the starter button and get it to spin though.




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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I had to go snap a pic. I think the 2 pole plug might be backwards…. Notice the black pole and the black/yellow stripe pole.

From the manual it shows it should be flipped???



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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Battery leads could also be what is wrong (solenoid side). The factory “old” stater solenoid has a clip for the 2 pole, my new one doesn’t. So that takes some of the guessing out.

Appears the black/yellow needs to be on the same side as the positive post (on the solenoid) In that case I would have it connected wrong. No clue how it was hooked up anymore when I replaced it. Pretty sure I transferred over the way it was….Could have been wrong even when I brought it home. I’ll test tomorrow!


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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I went and flipped them and installed the rectifier (couldn’t help myself). It fires right up and runs!!!!!!!!!! THANKYOU!!!!

The starter solenoid was on wrong the whole time!


Needs a belt reset. Kbec does it’s thing when ignition is turned off.

I’m out of the woods!!


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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Belt light and 4wd light are fighting me. May try bypassing belt switch and removing KBEC fork. Also need to pull 4wd actuator and test. Can’t feel or hear it trying.


Update:
Belt reset procedure 5x times and no luck. Tried jumpering belt switch direct.

I can tap the KBEC and it makes noise. It also “fidgets” for awhile after the key is off. Very odd. My other kawis spin and stop. This spins, stops and then acts like it’s trying to start again.


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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Got the belt light cleared and it’s no longer in limp mode. 4wd light is flashing. So time to look into that. (I’ve read quite a bit on it).


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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Very helpful! looks like the actuator is bad. I’ll pull it and apply power and see if it even turns. They are kind of pricey to just bank on it.

Already replaced the switch due to a bad boot (did that because of the tore boot).


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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Pulled the 4wd actuator out and completely pulled apart. Cleaned and greased and tested to 12 volts. Spins no problem. I’ll slap it back in but I doubt that was it lol.

I did get the 4wd light to go away for a bit with the boat load of belt resets I did. I may try a few more… see what happens.



A few questions if you know off hand:

- is the front drive shaft to suppose all the time? (I assume so), actuator engaged diff and forces 4wd then. I’ll confirm front shaft spins later if you confirm my above logic.

-can I stick my finger in the hole and move the sheaves manually?

Last thought: worst case I buy the sure 4 replacement and remove the actuator and use 4wd that way:
https://knightatv.com/products/brute-force-prairie-sure-4-manual-2wd-4wd-actuator

I used their KBEC bypass on the old 2008 Kawasaki brute force 750 with great success. It actually made the machine shift 4wd way better (didn’t have to move it to shift I do 4wd). I’ve promoted their business a lot.


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Pulled the 4wd actuator out and completely pulled apart. Cleaned and greased and tested to 12 volts. Spins no problem. I’ll slap it back in but I doubt that was it lol.
Should not have greased the gears. They only move a little it but the grease adds load to the motor. Clean and no lube is how Kawasaki does it. You could use a dry lube like graphite.

I did get the 4wd light to go away for a bit with the boat load of belt resets I did. I may try a few more… see what happens.
Test the switch.

A few questions if you know off hand:

- is the front drive shaft to suppose all the time? (I assume so), actuator engaged diff and forces 4wd then. I’ll confirm front shaft spins later if you confirm my above logic.
Drive line connected directly to the bevel shaft so yes it will move as the transmission rotates. The actuator couples the shaft to the pinion.

-can I stick my finger in the hole and move the sheaves manually?
YES, you should be able to. If not, something is wrong.

Last thought: worst case I buy the sure 4 replacement and remove the actuator and use 4wd that way:
Brute Force - Prairie Sure 4 Manual 2WD 4WD Actuator Kit
Good product and best option when you can't get the OE parts to work correctly..IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Guess I’ll be cleaning the grease off the gears! Actuator sounded good when I applied power.

The switch is brand new… it better work! I can test the pins where the 4x4 actuator plugs in. I saw a write up on how to test the 2 pins when switching for. 2wd to 4wd and vise versa.


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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Sounds like their might be a fuse in-line to the belt switch on Prairies… related to the 4wd?? il have to check the wiring diagram and also check physically.




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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Checked both fuses. Behind radiator as stated above. They are good.

Fixed factory sloppy fuse holders under the seat (just didn’t make good contact.) Now those are solid.

Drained and re filled the front diff. Def needed new fluid.

I messed with the 4wd a bit. I was moving the machine back and forth, heard the kbec engage for the first time while rolling. That’s positive results (while running).

4x4 light cleared and then came back on flashing.

I’m not sure this isn’t an issue with the KBEC. They do sell a delete kit… that fixed the 4wd issues on my old brute. Might have to buy that.


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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So I removed the kbec and witness it moving while I ride. The fact that it “fidgets” while the key is off for a long time is concerning still.

Ordered the belt and kbec bypass kit. Hoping this resolves the issue.


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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Just did the engine oil, filter, and rear dif oil. New air filter too, the old one was trash.

Seems to have issues on the top end, sputtering. Carb is brand new but a non kawi/oem brand. Read good and bad things. May clean out the old carb and transfer over some hoses and the bowl gasket and see what that does.

I’ve also read people transferred over the jets from the old to new carb and had success.

Hope to get kbec and belt bypass by the weekend or next week and I’ll easily install those.


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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Kawasaki uses Keihin carbs.
I noted that on the carb I took out. I’ll try to resolve the issue between the new and old carb.


After reading more it appears the “key” or block and actuator pin for the 4wd in the front diff are supposed to be in the 6 o’clock position. I pulled the actuator again and set it to the 6 o’clock position. I was able to easily slide the 4wd lock guide back and forth within the diff with my finger.

Still no 4wd but I’m really thinking it’s the kbec stopping that. Parts show up Friday!




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