If you want to improve your take offs from a dead stop. Get rid of the clutch fork. It is very easy to remove and install if needed. I chose to totally remove mine......
Here is another write up that i found alittle easier to see the step by step process thanks to Camo on kawieriders.com
First off, take the key to your quad and put it in your pocket. You don't want to turn on the ignition while your KEBC is disconnected or you will have to reset it as per the manuals instructions. Disconnect your KEBC connector and belt trip sensor wires. Remove top snorkel boot from the clutch cover and remove the clutch cover from your quad.
Once you get your cover on the bench, remove the KEBC actuator.
Remove the cover under the KEBC actuator to access the top of the fork lever.
Turn the cover over and have a good look at the shaft as it passes through the clutch cover. Note position of spring and "c" clip. Remove the "c" clip and spring. Set it aside.
Slide the KEBC actuator fork lever out through the top of your clutch cover.
Put the spring and "c" clip back on the fork arm for possible future use. Place on the top shelf in your garage because I doubt you will ever install it again.
This is the inside of the clutch cover with the fork removed. Clean it out and re-install it with the fork cover and actuator bolted back onto the top in it's original location. Hook up actuator and belt trip wire connectors.
Remove the key out of your pocket and cycle the key. You should here the normal KEBC whine and click as always. You won't have the engine braking under 5mph and some say it increases acceleration. Guys who ride very steep technical terrain may not want to do this as under 5mph, the quad will free wheel. All you have to do in a situation like this is use your brakes and blip the throttle. Blipping the throttle will engage your primary clutch and you will have engine braking. On steep descents, I will hold the throttle on very slightly and use my brakes. This way the clutch stays engaged. The rpm that it freewheels at also depends on what primary spring you are using. Most like this mod and some don't. It's all preference. The nice thing about this mod is you can return it to KEBC braking in as long as it took you to remove it. It never hurts to try.
Same steps. In fact nothing has really changed on the brute 750's since 2005. The only big thing was EFI in 2008 but 99% of the mods work on all the models
one of the first mods i did to mine, just remember you will lose some engine braking under 10mph but to cure that just give it some gas and the braking will come in
ok thanks guys. one more question after i take the fork out i jus replace the electric motor and plug it back in or do i leave it unplugged or does it really matter.
re-install the motor and plug in otherwise you will have the 2wd 4wd lights flashing.
you can get away with the lights flashing by looking at these 2 threads or by buying a DG-6 fromi diamondGracing and you can entirely remove the motor.
Just wondering how noticeable the change in power is by doing this? And if riding hills would you not recommend this because of the loss of engine brake?
If you're riding steep hills I'm not sure I'd recommend this mod. You will most definitely wear out your front brakes faster. All you have to do to re-engage your engine brake is just a little blip on the throttle and it will kick back in.
I'm not sure of any power increase. I took all that junk off of mine to get rid of the trouble associated with it. No more whizzz, bang, clank buzz when you turn the key off or on, no more flashing 2WD/4WD, no more limp mode.
if i put my broke 4x4 actuator (the magnets are broke) in place of the kebc actuator after doing this mod....and then put my working kebc actuator on the diff.....will i get power to use the 4wd switch and have 4wd....thanks
ok thanks...i went and read it......so all that does is to get the indacator to work with out the kebc....my question is will the actuater make the diff go into 4wd with just by doin the swap that i stated above...
You will probably get the flashing 2WD/4WD indicator on the dash because the KEBC will not be working. I'm pretty sure the 4WD system will not work either unless you do the mod listed above or repair both actuators.
went on my first good ride yesterday after doing this mod, i gotta say, the kebc is pretty much unnececary. i was with another 650 brute the whole time, and there were only 1-2 spots where his would crawl slower, and mine was way smoother to rip through the trails, has way more low end snap to it, and doesnt wine as loud. if only kawie would make the kebc with a knob so you can turn the amount of braking force up and down and off.
Did this mod today does anyone know if its safe to leave the bearing on the primary where the KEBC fork use to ride?
Hope it cant come out and mess everything up. Noticed maybe a small increase in power off the line but nothing special.....yet to take it on a good ride and test.
I left the bearing in mine and I did this several years ago. I've never heard of anyone's bearing coming out after doing this. Yours will probably be the first ever. lol
I did this mod a few weeks ago and i am very pleased.. noticeable improvement from dead stop. Before mod: I had to stand up and throw myself down on the seat to bring the front end straight up.. After mod: Seated position and just pull the bars :bigok: and i can set her on the back rack.. definitely climbs out the whole better now...
I'm trying to completely do away with my KEBC but it doesn't specify which SPDT relay to get and really does not explain how to wire it up any help would be welcomed.
^i would say i'd send you a pre-wired relay, but I forgot I put it on txdads brute. The mod is actually very easy to do if your reading through the how to and looking at your bike while doing so. I think it may have taken me 20 mins to do his, and I think we even stopped for a beer break lol.
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