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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys just got a 08 king 750. Only 500miles and runs great. The only problem is that the bike cuts off when u turn the key to turn the light s on. It starts right back up No problems. But if I do anything with the lights on it dies again. 4X4 switch it dies, diff lock dies, high beam dies, 3rd light dies. Weird. Owner says it has done this from day 1. Don't know why he didn't have dealership fix under warranty. Anyways all fuses are good. Maybe a bad ground?. Anyone had this before?
 

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That's the weirdest thing I've ever heard. My first thought was grounding out somewhere as well.
 

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I'd make sure the battery has a good charge and check the charging system just to be on the safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok will do guys. What kind of charging number should I look for?
 

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Backwoodz Boggerz
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you need to see 13.5 volts at least at the battery , sounds like if you turn on anything with a elect draw it pulls the voltage balow the low volt limit for the ing system(10v) an it shuts down
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK so if the volts are falling too low How do I go about fixing this?
 

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Backwoodz Boggerz
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check battery 1st, then the requlator(rectifier), stator an rotor, you will need a manual to find the procedures ,an output readings you need to look for
 

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Check the ignition switch. My Eiger did that same thing when I stopped riding it because I got my Brute. It's really picky about key position, I'm assuming a decent cleaning of the contacts could fix it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok my battery is reading 13.8 while running. I took my fuses out for the lights and it did not die. So I believe that its pulling too much power and shutting the bike down, however it does not cut off when I rev the engine. I cleaned the battery terminals as well with no help. What do u guys think? A new battery maybe? I don't know how old the current one is. But it starts the bike fine. Its a yuasa 270cca. I even jumped that battery with another ATV battery thinking it would all the lights to come on no problem but it still stalled. If u guys don't think its the battery I will just rev a little when doing anything electronic while having the lights on.
 

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Sounds like it's down stream from the head light fuse to me. I'd pull the plastics and trace the wiring harness from the fuse block. It might be a wire rubbing on the frame or a really bad connection at the lights. Are any of the bulbs blown?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Non of the fuses are blown. When it is running with the lights on anything else I turn on kills it including the fan. Almost Seems like the idle is too low. If by revving it I am able to turn everything on would that indicate a Time to change batteries? Its only 270cca and my arctic cat battery is 325. Any problem there?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gonna do that this weekened. Just a trickle charge overnight right?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok will do. I will report back this weekend. Thanks for all the help so far
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok guys have an update. I put a new motobatt in and still have the same problem. Since I have been riding a lot lately I notice that if the fan is on then I switch into 4wd it dies as well as when the lights are turned on. Anyone know where to go from here?
 

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Every electrical device dc or ac is a controlled short, light bulbs electronics ect. You have a uncontrolled loop to ground, take you a meter and check continuity from negative post to your frame. It should read near zero or zero depending on how it's calibrated, make sure no paint or debrea is in the way. Sounds like you don't have a good case ground the way it affects everything, find a coming ground point from wiring harness and check landing. If that is not landed well or broke everything will travel through the device with the lowest resistance.
 

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Any fix to this issue i have a 2007 kq 700 doing the exact same thing down to the t dies when I turn headlights on dies when fan kicks on dies when brake light comes on dies when I put it in 4x4 and dies when i put the diff lock on unless I rev it up before i turn any electrical on
 

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I'm not familiar with your specific bike. but there is an excitation voltage that's applied to increase magnetic field and produce more current. start by measure the voltage without charger attached "battery only".. then start machine check voltage at idle, and then test voltage again at around 1500rpm. report back. I have a feeling it needs a stator or rectifier.

if you have a DC amp clamp you can also test the current. but if you only have a standard meter the amp max for meter is like 10 so I wouldnt use that.
 
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