sweet!:bigok:. you got a little dirt on yer umm... well all over really ! 
kymco mxu 500 radiator relocate
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Yeah had it out last weekend and haven't had time to clean it with wife and kid sick. Once I'm done with the project I'll clean it
Well I finished it up but now I keep blowing the fuse for the fan. Only thing I messed with wiring wise was the wires that go to a piece in the radiator I had to extend. Any ideas?
not trying to be a smart aXX but how bout just using a larger fuse?
Don't take this wrong way but that's a bad idea. If it was working fine and all I did was extend wire 6 inches theres a issue. By putting a stronger fuse it could cause issues somewhere else by overcompensating with the fuse. Any other ideas?
Any ideas? Redid all the connections and still blowing fuses
Double check the wiring. Make sure where you spliced them together they are conected to the correct corosponding wire. Also check to see if anything is grounding out or if any open wires are touching themselveswhere to spliced them.
Checked all the wires. Nothing is exposses. As soon as the fan is suppose to turn on the fuse blows now. Im stuck. Is there a way to wire a toggle directly into thefan and bypass all the relays? I have two wires running from a relay to the actual fan. A black and blue one. Any ideas? Would it be to much constant amps? Are the solenoids constant amp or no? Thanks in advance
Acidbreez is that a mxu 400 or 500?
Try cleaning the fan as mentioned, see if it turns easily by hand. A fan that has a hard time turning will cause the motor to heat up and draw more amperage blowing the fuse. You're absolutely correct in NOT changing the fuse to band-aid some other problem.
It might work for a while and it might overload the circuit causing a wiring harness melt down!
I wish I had taken photos of some of the customers boats that I have worked on that corrosion caused blown fuses and they just kept upping the fuse until the entire wiring harness smoked!
Anyways a couple of ideas:
1) does the fan unplug?
2) do you have a multimeter with an ohms reading??
if 1 and 2 are yes, unplug the fan, set your meter to the ohms scale, connect your meter to ground, then probe each side of the fuse that is blowing.
Your meter should read nothing or NC or infinity (whatever it reads when the meter isn't connected to anything on the ohms scale) if it reads something other then there is most definitely a short to ground.
If there's no short then we need to move on to the fan. The two wires coming from the fan need a positive and negative to make the fan operate, it really doesn't matter which way you hook it up for testing purposes as its a DC motor and it won't hurt it to run backwards.
Connect one side of the fan wiring to ground via a jumper wire. Then connect a jumper to the other wire (WITH a fuse equal to the fuse that is blowing), then connected to the positive side of the battery.
If the fan does not run then the fan is the culprit.
If it does run we've got some more troubleshooting to do... Most of these things have a thermostat that once the water in the radiator gets hot enough the thermostat will close a switch and apply a ground to the other side of the fan. I would triple check my wiring and make sure that the wire that feeds the fan isn't mistakingly connected to the wire that ties into the thermostat.
This would cause 12v+ to be connected to ground whenever the thermostat closed, thus blowing your fuse and never powering the fan. (Does the fuse blow when the engine gets warm enough for the fan come on or instantly?)
If all that fails we will have to look elsewhere but that is every possible scenario I can think of for why you would be blowing the fuse to the fan!
It might work for a while and it might overload the circuit causing a wiring harness melt down!
I wish I had taken photos of some of the customers boats that I have worked on that corrosion caused blown fuses and they just kept upping the fuse until the entire wiring harness smoked!
Anyways a couple of ideas:
1) does the fan unplug?
2) do you have a multimeter with an ohms reading??
if 1 and 2 are yes, unplug the fan, set your meter to the ohms scale, connect your meter to ground, then probe each side of the fuse that is blowing.
Your meter should read nothing or NC or infinity (whatever it reads when the meter isn't connected to anything on the ohms scale) if it reads something other then there is most definitely a short to ground.
If there's no short then we need to move on to the fan. The two wires coming from the fan need a positive and negative to make the fan operate, it really doesn't matter which way you hook it up for testing purposes as its a DC motor and it won't hurt it to run backwards.
Connect one side of the fan wiring to ground via a jumper wire. Then connect a jumper to the other wire (WITH a fuse equal to the fuse that is blowing), then connected to the positive side of the battery.
If the fan does not run then the fan is the culprit.
If it does run we've got some more troubleshooting to do... Most of these things have a thermostat that once the water in the radiator gets hot enough the thermostat will close a switch and apply a ground to the other side of the fan. I would triple check my wiring and make sure that the wire that feeds the fan isn't mistakingly connected to the wire that ties into the thermostat.
This would cause 12v+ to be connected to ground whenever the thermostat closed, thus blowing your fuse and never powering the fan. (Does the fuse blow when the engine gets warm enough for the fan come on or instantly?)
If all that fails we will have to look elsewhere but that is every possible scenario I can think of for why you would be blowing the fuse to the fan!
Thanks for the write up whoolie but I fixed it already but forgot to update the thread. What is was, the two wires I had to extend to the fan were a smaller gauge and I didn't even notice. The fuse would blow when I would get it hot enough to turn the fan on. Once I changed the wire to the same gauge as the fan was it fixed the problem
Intodeep913 its the mxu500
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