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I'm a noob....so go easy on me. Phreebsd (thanks again)posted some 05 Prairie manuals and they have been a very big help. I 've read it through top to bottom. I'm mechanically inclined so I can just about fix anything. Here we go.

I have an 02 650 Prairie. According to the 05 manuals, they are virtually identical. This 4-wheeler went underwater from Hurricane IKE. I found it upside down in the shop. It had been under for about 2 days before I could get to it. The salt ate up the carbs that was on it. I just put some used ones from EBAY for 150.00. They were in perfect shape. Pulled the bowls to check. They fired up first crank. Now I have a big black stain on the wall behind it because there was a little water left in the pipes and when it fired up, it looked like a giant squid erupted.

Ok, now that is runs fairly decent. I put it in gear, but it doesn't move. I removed the drive belt cover and I can tell the salt made the pulleys all white and frosty. I have a feeling the torque converter is froze up. I plan on taking it apart just to lube it up. It looks simple enough in the manual, but it doesn't say danger, warning, springs will fly everywhere. I have read alot of you guys changing springs with different colors so somebody must know alot about these things. I'm basically looking for hits and tips on how to strip one down withotu taking it to the Kawie shop. What do I need? A vise and a screwdriver and maybe a hammer?

Last, I don't hear the buzzing of the EBC when I shut off the bike. Even though the cover was off and the EBC and the belt fail was plugged in. Can I ride this bike with the EBC disabled or not working? Since the 4 wheeler is running, and the brakes are good, I would like to just get the torque converter going and ride.

So all I need is inputs for torque converter and EBC. I will ask other questions as I'm sure other problems will arise. Thanks for any input you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you'll most likely need a torque wrench aswell, for when you strap the clutch back together



Torque wrench....check. Mine is frozen from the water but I'll get another one before I start. So this converter project is not going to be that hard.....right?:rolleyes:
 

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Welp. Based on what you have so far this is what you will need and should do

You'll need an air powered impact wrench. This will break those pulley bolts right off.
Remember, rear is regular thread the primary is reverse thread (normal tighten to loosen it.)
This thread will help you with removing the primary and secondary.(pics included)
http://www.mudinmyblood.com/clutchspringinstall.html

You should definitely clean those clutches. I'd get them off and soak them in water to dissolve the salt. Then rinse them clean.
After that check the sheave surfaces on both clutches. If they are pitted or very rough from the corrsion get to work on them with steel wool. Rub them in a circular pattern till they feel smooth.
As far as lubing them, i think you put a lite amount of grease on teh bar where the weights ride on. You should also apply some grease on the keepers in the secondary (see link above) and also make sure there is no corrosion on the inside of the clutch there the shaft is inserted.
When you are all done and get them back on torque them to 69ft/lbs. (important to not go over as you can drive the clutches too far in toward the engine)

For the KEBC issue he's what i would do. (ive torn apart a few)

Remove the KEBC from the CVT cover (3x8mm bolts on top). Mark the electric motor cover with a notch and one on the bottom part of the KEBC. This is so you can get it back on in the same orientation. If you dont get it back on the same way later on it wont turn. Unsure why that's just what I and others have noticed. Makes no sense.

Now remove the motor cover (3 screws). Once you have it off give the motor a few turns one way and see if it turns VERY EASILY. if not, there's your problem. Need to open it up further and clean and lube. Often times, the shaft coming down with the pin on the end is seized in the housing. I use a wire wheel on a die grinder to polish it. I then lube the gears inside with some good grease. Once you get it all cleaned up and turning properly. Hook it back up (to the bike but dont bolt it on yet) turn the key on and wait 10 seconds then turn key off. Hopefully you will see it move and then reset itself then stop moving. Once it's good bolt it on and start shredding. :D
If it doesnt turn, go check the fuses in the fuse box to be sure all are ok. if so you might need a new one. You can try borrowing one from a friend for a few minutes to hook and up verify that your power to it is ok.

Also, wash the belt real good. Might want to get some mild soapy water on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welp. Based on what you have so far this is what you will need and should do

You'll need an air powered impact wrench. This will break those pulley bolts right off.
Remember, rear is regular thread the primary is reverse thread (normal tighten to loosen it.)
This thread will help you with removing the primary and secondary.(pics included)
http://www.mudinmyblood.com/clutchspringinstall.html

You should definitely clean those clutches. I'd get them off and soak them in water to dissolve the salt. Then rinse them clean.
After that check the sheave surfaces on both clutches. If they are pitted or very rough from the corrsion get to work on them with steel wool. Rub them in a circular pattern till they feel smooth.
As far as lubing them, i think you put a lite amount of grease on teh bar where the weights ride on. You should also apply some grease on the keepers in the secondary (see link above) and also make sure there is no corrosion on the inside of the clutch there the shaft is inserted.
When you are all done and get them back on torque them to 69ft/lbs. (important to not go over as you can drive the clutches too far in toward the engine)

For the KEBC issue he's what i would do. (ive torn apart a few)

Remove the KEBC from the CVT cover (3x8mm bolts on top). Mark the electric motor cover with a notch and one on the bottom part of the KEBC. This is so you can get it back on in the same orientation. If you dont get it back on the same way later on it wont turn. Unsure why that's just what I and others have noticed. Makes no sense.

Now remove the motor cover (3 screws). Once you have it off give the motor a few turns one way and see if it turns VERY EASILY. if not, there's your problem. Need to open it up further and clean and lube. Often times, the shaft coming down with the pin on the end is seized in the housing. I use a wire wheel on a die grinder to polish it. I then lube the gears inside with some good grease. Once you get it all cleaned up and turning properly. Hook it back up (to the bike but dont bolt it on yet) turn the key on and wait 10 seconds then turn key off. Hopefully you will see it move and then reset itself then stop moving. Once it's good bolt it on and start shredding. :D
If it doesnt turn, go check the fuses in the fuse box to be sure all are ok. if so you might need a new one. You can try borrowing one from a friend for a few minutes to hook and up verify that your power to it is ok.

Also, wash the belt real good. Might want to get some mild soapy water on it.







Awesome Phree. This is great stuff. Thanks. That link is sweet. Just for kicks since the old belt used to squeal like **** and was fixin to go, I decided to remove it old school. I pulled the belt over to the side on the back pulley on the bottom, bumped the starter and let it spit itself off. Now I can get to the front pulley surfaces and I have already given them 600 grit treatment. I'll start on torque converter removal probably Sunday. I have to work on my Mom's house all day Saturday. See the pic. Obviously by now it has a new roof on and sheetrock just got finished last week, so it's tape and float and we can move her back in. I'll get an updated pic as soon as I catergorize about 100 pics tonight.

If I have any prob's all definately ask.
 

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That pic reminds me of panama city.

On that primary see if you can push it in. It should move in with a lot of pressure. Sounds like it doesnt and tis why it wont go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UN---frozen

Got it done. Took about an hour. I didn't remove the whole converter. With belt out of the way, removed just the center bolt and the 10 bolts that hold the plate together. Removed the spring and with a couple of light taps of a hammer, the primary pulleys starting squeezing to gether. Wedging a screwdriver behind the weights and using a full can of WD-40 on the whole basket assembly, everything came free. I worked the weights back and forth until they were smooth. The rollers they ride against were ok. Grabbed edges of the pulley and worked it back and forth until it gave no resistance whatsoever. Sprayed the whole thing down with carb cleaner to get off all the WD, but re-applied some waterproof grease on key areas that needed it. Wiped surfaces of pulley clean. Put converter back together and with belt off, started it up and watched pulleys squeeze together with increase of throttle.

Now that the primary is done, I see on the schematic three small "dog" or "buttons in the secondary pulley. How much movement does the secondary pulleys ,make? More than likely, it's probably frozen. What would happen if I drive this 4-wheeler with the secondary in a frozen condition? Is there anyway to activate secondary drive to check for movement?
 
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