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Discussion Starter #1
I've been doing a lot of looking around on MIMB and a couple other sites concerning the aesthetics of a DIY snorkel. I've found a lot of great information on rugged and reliable paint jobs and the orientation of the pipes coming out of the front cover but haven't yet been able to locate a source for parts to make a DIY snorkel job look stock. This mainly pertains to the holes that are cut in the plastic just below and in front of your handle bars. I have a few ideas of my own on how to make the job a little less shoddy looking (especially for first timers like myself) but would like some input on what you all have done to make a home snork job look factory.

Two of the better suggestions I've been given were to rim the hole(s) cut in the plastic with auto-body trim to give a more uniform look to the rough cut edges, and the second was to apply high density foam blocks between the pipes (to cut down on pipe movement during rough handling and increase stability) then paint them with the same stuff you would the rest of the pipe.

What are your thoughts?
 

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The suggestion you gave sound good to me lol. ive actually never thought of the foam to reduce shakiness.
 

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Once you get them done they really aren't that shakey. You can use a big ziptie on them below the plastic & that helps sturdy them. And as mentioned trimming the edge with some kind of rubber trim looks good. There are Pictures here somewhere of a few members who have done that.
 

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when i cut holes in plastic with a hole saw (2 1/4") i put duct tape on the plastics first. I'm not sure why but it wont burr up the holes and it will be nice and smooth. I stumbled up on it because when i was marking my plastics to drill, I needed a surface that a black marker would show up on.
 

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They will defiantly shake. Go about 60mph on road with unbalanced laws.. theyll sway to about a 45 degree angle..its pretty bad. I have zip ties under to hold em too, but if you have the 3 2" rubber coupler pieces above or in the plastic they will sway. you can choose to not do the 2" rubber couplers but you better make sure you make your whole snorkel assembly absolutely perfect, because you can't just change what it looks like above without the couplers. Anyway, about the neck piece, I took mine off, layed it on a flat surface and made sure the accesories wire wasn't lifting it on one side...:34: Then take a 2" Hole saw (2" for no couplers in neck piece, 2 1/2" with) and drill straight down. That way if your looking at the neck piece they look like ovals. It should look good if you take your time and do it that way, i don't know what else you could do to make it look "Stock".
 

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^ Not very many of us ride 60mph on the road (or period...) w/ 29 laws.. haha.... So speed-induced wobble is not an issue for most ;)
 

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snorkles

My side mounted snorkles are awesome,and I have no problem with any movement at all. I still need to redo my 2" intake and install a 3" intake for more power.Nothing wrong with the 2"pvc intake though as long as she's jetted and set up correctly.
 

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Yeah just not crazy about side snorks... way to easy to lean and dip.... Just sayin...
 

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:agreed: i like to keep my snorks as far away from water as possible!
 

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Wobble dont bother me....

To be honest, a Brute (or any other) looks odd to me without being center punched...
 
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