HeadC1 bought his wife a 07 brute wit a motor that had a spun rod bearing (got a great deal because of this). Here are some pictures of the motor goin back together. I wouldnt call this a "how to", more like a how NOT to put a crank in a motor, although it seems to have worked
a lil brute PORN for yall
Using the new parts washer to clean the cases
using a hammer as a press, notice our nice block of wood to suport the crank in the middle
what do u do when a hammer doesnt work, get a bigger hammer (also works for removing ur old worn out crank)
the new crank is in
the rods wit new bearings are now in
Head putting some RTV on all the edges
the liquid encouragement to get the job done right (im a Bud Light fan myself, but free beer is always good )
the manual that trys to keep us from f'n the whole thing up
put the bolts back in after putting the cases back together
that was as far as we made it last night. stay tuned for more action from Team BS HQ
Well it didn't got to well last night. I put the 6* key in and it cranked right up. It idled perfect for about 5 seconds and then started missing and died. It broke the new key. Has anyone heard of this happening with the 6* key? I'm a little skeptical of them because of the offset there is less metal and looks weaker than a stock one.
what did you guys do as far as the crank bearing that they say you have to replace goes, mine is in bad shape, and i'm tryin not to have to spend 700.00 $$ on new cases, thanks in advance.
I just rebuilt my 08 brute 750. If you need parts.....kawasakipartsnation and cheapcycleparts. I ordered Crank, Rods, Bearings, Rings, Gasket Set, Oil Pump. Crank I got for 241.00. **** thing runs better then it did from the factory. gonna clutch it next I think.
I never did update this post sorry guys. The bike is still running great. We bought a teryx and sold this brute to a friend of mine (told him if he ever sold it I wanted it back). I also ended up putting a 6" lift on it and he just put 32's on it. If you ever remove a pull start off the side of a brute, replace the inner part with a washer.
I've been talking with a guy on here through pm's, he's getting ready to do a motor rebuild, and thought I would throw this pic out there. This is from a couple of weeks ago when I was rebuilding my motor for my Teryx. That's a 5 gal. bucket of ice with the crank shoved down in it. Wow did this make crank removal easy. I didn't want to damage the crank in case I wanted to get it turned later. After the crank got good and cold, I set the case on some tall blocks of wood and used a hammer and another block of wood to knock the crank out of the case. Came out easy. I also had the new crank sitting in the freezer for installation.
yeah that works wonders, and that crank you got turned you shouldn't have any worries about it cause i went that route with the same guy and its been running great, or atleast it did untill i got water in the motor from a freaking vac hose off the throttle body. but we tore it down and the crank and rods were still in great shape just one or two little bitty marks on the bearings none on the crank or rods. Loving the bigger and stronger bearings so far
Big Shannon on kawairiders is doing my crank right now for 225.00. Web brothers and four stroke tech does them for 325.00. Cheaper than a new crank and rods and more robust rod bearings than stock.
does anyone know what rod bearings these guys are using when they turn the crank and resize the rods? I have a place that will rework these for 150 with bearings..... its a buddies shop and I want him to do my work then I can spread the word and save you all some money!!
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