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Discussion Starter #1
Ok yall, I want to start mud racing my Brute after I build it. Any tips on what I should do or get to be at the top of the class, besides going with a 6" rilla lift...Thanks for the help yall. oh and by the way I just started using my arm without the sling today!!!
 

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glad the arm is healing up nicely for you!

As for the racing - you dont neccesarily need to go with a big lift... If I were racing again I'd go with a 4", 28 laws or back on crushloks, fine tuned clutch, and enough weight up front to keep the front end planted (but not so much that it hurts u) so you can stay in the throttle the whole time without letting off and some juice strapped to the rear. Now thats what I'd do but I've been out of it for a while now and havent kept up with alot but it seems to me the racing has turned to more of a water race instead of mud so you want to look at speed and weight compared to being lifted. Take the extra money for the lift and sink it into the motor, tuning, and power add ons...

Good luck! Lots of time and money ahead of you!
 

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Yeah I would ditch the lift. I honetly would spend that money in stretching it a little a little if anything. That would help you way more than a lift. A lot of people want to put big lifts and biggest tires, but that's not necessary. 29.5's or 30's are good. Any bigger, your just robbing your power in mud racing. Your also going to want to get rid of anything that will drag in the water like floorboards, cv guards, etc. Gotta have the crush locs as well.
 

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I'd say get a second job first!!

Cause your gonna spend some $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yea, at the most all I want is HL spring, and a 2" lift with like 29.5" laws. But yall dont think I should take weight off the bike? Like I want to do all new plastics guards in the front or should I do the dimond plate....there is not much more weigh there to go with dimond plate over the plastic but it is like 3x the price....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh and can anyone tell me if the new 08 bumpers will go on the earlier bike like 07 06 I would like that lime green bumper to match my bike
 

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I'd stay away from big lifts. If you want to be competitive, get crushlocs, some laws or edls, and some special clutching ;) and some hi-comp pistons & cams & a crank. If you want to race in the top (pro) class then drop the 840 or bigger in it and add some spray and get with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sounds like a long road aheah, but I will do as much as I can when I can. Where can I find the crush locks and what are really good engine componets to use when building it. I want to be able to trail ride all I want allso....You All are so much help, Really!
 

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I wouldn't put any guards on the front. As far as weight your going to have to add it to keep it on the bottom. It's a little different than drag racing where you would lighten the load.
 

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Good luck it took me aaround 6 to 7 months to get my bike dialed in last year but my bike does very well in the pits.You dont need no lift and get some crushlocks with a good tire also clutching is a big key to racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok but where can I get the crushlocks and where do I need to start with the clutching?
 

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I would check the WTS section on HL for the crushloks... I think they're kind of pricey so if you can find a used set - thatd be your best bet.

As for clutching - since you want to continue trail riding it - start with the vfj stage 3 work and determine what tires you want to run at the same time. CLutch springs is going to depend on tire size but if I were you I'd run the 28's with a red secondary and almond primary. The almond is going to give you about 1k - 1200 stall over stock. Now if it were a straight pit bike then I'd say up the primary some more but since you want to continue riding trails - start with the almond.
I'd also change primary weights. I'm running 56g belly busters right now and I like them but I used to run 54's on my race bike and it performed very well. Weights are kind of pricey and lot of ppl dont change them out but I do. I've never had the dalton weights but they are adjustable so it may be worth ur while to get a set of those. That way you dont have soo much money tied up in them while ur tuning the bike.
As for extra motor mods if you dont want to rebuild it right now - I'd say best bang for your buck is going to be some juice - I ran the boondocker. If you dont know how to set up/tune a bike with nitrous I would recommend taking it to one of the guys that will show you what they're doing and explain it to you so you know the setup (ur going to need to know it when something is not acting right).
 

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Our sponsor White Rhino is making crushlocs by order.... He's kinda down and out right now w/ his back but, by the time you get ready to buy he can probably hook you up.

If you want to go into the motor, you can put in some 11.5:1 pistons and good Cams & still not have to race in the Pro Class. (At least by HL's rules last year)

Clutching is something you just need to play with, but I'll try to help you get started there too.

Front end is gonna need a 50lb dumbell strapped to it haha.... :D
 

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Did I hear a cha-ching somewhere in there?

If you don't mind me asking, how much $$ do you two have into your ride, not including damage and abuse.
 

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I try not to add it up or think about it... hurts too much after you look back and see how much u've spent over time... but in the heat of building it - it doesnt matter. You just want it to run like a raped ape so u spend spend spend...
 

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