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Alright, again after a long time of waiting and finishing the renegade xxc snorkeling how to, im gonna start writing up how to snorkel the G2 Outlander XT with all PVC/ABS and NO flex hose.

I was lucky enough on this one that my local Can-am/Kawi Dealer let me do this on a BRAND NEW bike that they were building as a show bike for an open house.

Alright here we go.

Parts List

CVT Intake:
2" to 1 1/2" Rubber Reducer
1.5" 90 Street Fitting
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Short 90
1.5" Rubber Coupler
1.5" 45 Street Fitting
1.5" Rubber Coupler

CVT Exhaust:
1.5" Rubber Coupler
1.5" 90 Street Fitting
1.5" short 45
1.5" Long 90
1.5" Rubber Coupler
1.5" Short 90
1.5" 90 street Fitting
1.5" Rubber Coupler

Air Box:
1.5" 45
1.5" 45
2" to 1.5" PVC/ABS Reducer
2" Rubber Coupler


TOTAL:
1x 2" to 1.5" Rubber Reducer
5x 1.5" Rubber Couplers
3x 1.5" 90 Street Fitting
2x 1.5" Long 90
2x 1.5" Short 90
1x 45 Street Fitting
3x 1.5" Short 45
1x 2" to 1.5" PVC/ABS Reducer
1x 2" Rubber Coupler

Stock you will need:
Approx 6 feet of 1.5" PVC/ABS Pipe
Approx 1 foot of 2" PVC/ABS
Aluminum Heat tape
PVC Glue
Silicone


Parts to make the tops if you want the same:
2x 1.5" 90 street Fittings
2x 1.5" Short 45s
2x 1.5" Short 90s
1x 2" 90 Street Fitting
2x 2" 45 Street Fittings


Before we start, DO NOT glue ANYTHING until the very end. this is crucial, if you start gluing before everything is fit properly your going to be in trouble.

First off, your going to need to remove your side panels, Left side inner fender splash panel, Seat and the POD.





CVT Intake:

This is the hardest part to snorkel, but it needs to be the first done as everything else will be done around it.

First, Remove your OEM CVT intake.




Next Your going to cut it Down to put the 2" to 1.5" Rubber Reducer onto it. Reusing some of this stock piece i find much much better than trying to put a round PVC piece into the oval CVT intake boot on the clutch cover.



Next you can put this back into place.

After you put it back in put your 1.5" Street 90 into the reducer.



Then place a small piece of pipe into the Street 90 and fit your Long 90 into so the gap above it between the air box and rad hose is lined up, and it is towards the center of the bike in that gap.

This is where things get difficult. Your going to need to cut a small amount off the lip on the front of the air box so both CVT snorkels can come through. Don't worry though the sealant is farther inside, and the part cut off is more or less useless.



Once you do this feed the 1.5" pipe down through to the long 90 below, again CLOSEST TO THE CENTER OF THE QUAD. The CVT exhaust needs to fit into this section as well. Once you have the bottom lined up and you know the pipe fits remove it. Next you need to trim some of the POD support so the CVT intake can travel to the other side of the POD.



This is hard to explain i understand but.. your going to need to look to see whats going on and copy it appropriately.

Next, line up your 1.5" short 90. To do this take a piece of 1.5 pipe and feed it through the POD support and attach the fitting to the end of it. With that pointing down and lining up with the bottom portion of the CVT intake measure the length of the pipe you will need to connect the 2.




At this point once you have everything fitting somewhat nicely, move onto the CVT exhaust, and we will come back to this later.

CVT Exhaust:

Luckily, the CVT exhaust is a little bit easier.

First off, you need to remove the boot that goes from the end of your OEM CVT exhaust and push on the 1.5" Rubber Coupler.

Once you get that on, take your 1.5" 90 street fitting and place it on, now the objective of this is to get this lined up so the pipe that will be protruding out of the 90 street fitting, is as close to, yet not touching the exhaust heat shield. Pushing the head shield in a little bit will help. After you push in the heat shield a little bit, start cutting the 1.5" coupler back until the 90 street fitting fits like the picture above.

Once this is done, fit an approx. 12" piece of 1.5" pipe into the street fitting and put a 45 pointing square and towards the front of the bike.


Take the clamps for the coupler now and put them on. You can put the inner one on as you like as you shouldnt need to remove that anymore. The outter clamp that will hold the 90 street fitting put that on lightly, so it will hold the now assemble 90 street, 12" pipe and 45 but it will move if it is pushed. Then put your side panel back on, and make sure the snorkel and the side panel do not interfere.



Once that fits properly, you can continue on. Next run a pipe from the end of the 45 all the way up so it sits right beside your CVT intake snorkel. From there put on your 1.5" Long 90 and again, align the gap above with the below portion.



At this point, start making sure everything fits properly with both snorkels having some room to fit and adjust.

Now that you have both CVT snorkels run up to the pod, your going to have to drill holes for them to come through. They are going to come through the square like holes already in the POD. And may i suggest since i made this mistake, take your holesaw (big enough for a 1.5" coupler to fit through) and drill the hole from the inside out, drilling it from outside in is almost impossible because of the sizes and edges.




Now, you can go back to your CVT intake. This one is harder to line up so i recommend doing this one first.

From here, you will need a piece of pipe going from the 90 on your CVT intake to go across the pod support. Fit a 45 street fitting onto the end of this piece of pipe and measure it out, trying to align with the hole in your pod as best as you possibly can.



After that is done you can put the final piece onto your CVT Exhaust.

From here, your going to need a Short 1.5" 90 and a 1.5" 90 street fitting. Put them together with a small piece of pipe. Put your pod on and align them up, once you have done that measure the distance from the bottom part of your CVT exhaust to this part, and cut the piece of pipe that will run it to the top.



Once you have that done, put your cut down coupler on the end of each CVT snorkel and install your POD. Line everything up so it has the best fit and finish you can possibly manage.

Once everything sits right, carefully mark every single joint, piece of pipe and alignment you need, and then haul it all back off again. Its finally time to start gluing.

From here, with everything on your bench glue both assembly's completely together as you marked. You might think its not going to go back on the bike? This is where were going to make the snorkels completely removable and easy to install.

For the CVT Exhaust, mark and cut approx. here.

Here you are going to use a 1.5" rubber coupler to make your snorkel diss assemble and reassemble easily.


While this is on the bench, also add your aluminum heat tape to where the CVT exhaust runs along the engines exhaust to protect it from heat.



Next is your CVT intake cut approximately here:



Make sure where you place this, is not going to interfere with your pod support.

Your ready to put your finished snorkels back on the bike. At this point just line everything up. Also, after its on add a little aluminum heat tape to the begining of the CVT intake just for good measure.



After everything is installed again check fitment with pod and move as needed. You can actually make these rubber coupler flush with the face, and the clamps will fit perfectly into the square edges of where they each come through.




And Finally the easiest part. The air box intake

Air Box Snorkel:

After all that, this will be very very easy. First cut the 90 off your intake boot.

(in comparison i have a lack of pictures for this part but.. its pretty straight forward anyway.)



After the boot is cut, slide a piece of 1.5" pipe into the rubber boot and clamp it down. From here on you just need to allign to where you want the intake to come through. Your going to have to trim again a little bit of the Pod support. I find it easiest from here to drill the hole through your pod, Again the size of a 2" Rubber Coupler.



Once that is done, simply run your 2 1.5" 45s in an offset to both 1.move the intake to the very center of the bike and pod, and 2. avoid the coupler for the CVT intake below it. Once you have this 1.5" setup done put your pod back on and line up the very center of the 45 with the hole in the pod. from there add a small piece of pipe and your 2" to 1.5" PVC/ABS Reducer.



From there, line up your pod again and add the 2" piece of pipe and the cut down 2" Rubber Coupler that will go through your pod. Once you think you have it lined up reinstall your pod. If everything is lined up simply mark and glue.

Before you put everything back together, don't forget to silicone your air box lid, as well as the duck bill drain for the air box, if not this will all be for nothing.

From here, you are done and ready to add any type of snorkel tops you prefer. Your finished product should look something like this:





From here i will show you how to make the same tops I did.. this bike was equipped with a set of renegade handle bars and pad, and they wanted to be able to do a full lock turn without touching the tops. They also wanted a lower profile, and something that would fit with there RDC rad relocate they were adding.. so this is what i did.



This is the design i came up with that would clear everything. Yet still have some height.

The air box intake is just a 2" 90 street fitting, and 2x 2" 45 street fittings all it a square and straight formation going up.

Both CVT snorkels were the same just flipped for either side. Consisting of a 1.5" 90 street fitting coming out of each coupler, a small piece of pipe, then square with the air box intake with a 1.5" 45 and 1.5" 90 including a small piece of pipe to fit them togeather. Each piece looks like this.



After I had them all made, I bolted them together and clamped them down to make sure everything cleared. Then marked everything and glued. Reassembled to check, then knocked off all the marks, injection points, etc to make a smooth finish. Then painted them with bedliner.

]





You might also notice the I bedlined the clamps on the outside of the pod, so they are almost invisible.

I hope you enjoyed my right up it took a long time.

And again on this snorkel right up, please give me a chance to have a little break, come back fix spelling errors etc etc... Enjoy!
 

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Dude! Awesome! Friend has a 13 outlander 1000cc that we might try this on.


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---------- Post added at 06:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

How much did it cost for the parts?


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Discussion Starter #3
The dealer paid for everything.. i would say about $150 CAD
 

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Ok gotta figure the exchange lol


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Good job
 

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Awesome! Hope my writeup helped if you saw the thread!

Great work as always!
 

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Thanks a lot for posting this! excellent pictures to. Going to be following this for when I snorkel the cvt exhaust on my 650xt.
 

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Well after 10 straight hours of cutting, measuring, beer, measuring, beer, cutting, glueing, beer, beer, beer lol. This is how my bud's 2013 Outy 1000 came out. All in all I'm happy with how it came out with the exception of the CVT Exhaust. Going to re address that this afternoon when I get off work cause I will be sober lol. Thanks for the great write up!

Oh and they are not going to be this tall when finished ;)
 

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FIN!!! Going to let the owner paint them when he picks it up. Again awesome write up!!!!


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Is that abs or pvc pipe? Where did u find those short 45's because lowes and home depot doesn't carry them here
 

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Those are pvc. Think I found those at ace hardware


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Where did you find black pvc?
 

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I believe that's ABS not PVC.
I believe you are correct, I read a reply above that said it was PVC not ABS but did not realize it was not the op. Thanks
 

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Started today.....Wow what a job.
 

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Finally done

 

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I just wanted to help add on this post to help any one out there , I used left over radiator hose from my 15 commander 1000 xt for the cut vent and heat tape rapped it . Have had 0 issues so far and have $45 in my snorkel kit including running the vent lines . Now there is trimming under the pod but that's it . Hope this helps

The air box inlet hose I cut about 5 inches back and uses a 1.5 inch street 90 to slide into the factor rubber inlet hose then 22 and 45 degree angles to go around the pod

The cvt intake I cut just under the bell for the screen and used a 2" -1.5" rubber cuppler and a 1.5" street 90 into the cuppler then 90 to 45 degree angles

Now the part you have to see to believe. And yes I heat shield rapped the hell out it lol
The cvt exhaust I used a 2" -1" rubber cuppler to go on the existing pipe in picture then a 1" 90 that had a fitting for the 1" inside diameter radiator hose from my wild bore rad relocate kit then run the hose where it's out if the way up beside the cut inlet there you will put in a 90 that s for the hose so it won't kink. Then a short about 8 inch piece of hose you run straight threw the plastic and beside the air box intake hose and out the other side to your fitting to go from the 1" hose to screw into a 1.5" adapter pic. Then a 1.5" 90 to a street 90 to a 45.

I'msorry in advance for my pour directions look at the pictures please. This is on my 14 outlander 800r xt . You will need a 10ft stick of 1.5 " off pipe . I used about 7 ft of it
 

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