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it is possible but i couldnt really see it but you can check for sure wouldnt hurt normally you will just lose power not to say it couldnt rub through and cross to another wire not too sure really where or how they ran the circuit havent had any electrical problems yet other than the resetable fuse for the fan the terminal rotted off the fuse so havent done a whole lot on the brute to be too familiar with it but......i will have a look tomorrow and see if i turn anything else up.......i personally would probably try starting from the switches back to start with though.....alot less like trying to find a needle in a haystack
 

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ya you bet...lol......i have to get another belt tommorrow was out riding till i blew yet another belt lol......had the epi weights in was blowing belts went back to stock was doing good till a long high speed run again and blew my new 3gx i just put in......good thing for belt warranty but will take probably a few weeks to get a belt back.............time for that red secondary to go......no good for the top end just builds too much heat im thinking.....but while im in my belt cover there i will see what i can find on the brake circuit for you.....hopefully you get er though
 

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i noticed in a previous thread ,you can start in gear without pulling left brake handle ,i would find the connector for the start in gear switch an unplug it ,sounds to me like its the switch keeping the brake system hot
 

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Switches and lamps...

There are 3 switches on my 2006 650 4x4i. One at each side of the handle bars and one at the right foot pedal. They are called the Front Brake light switch, Parking Brake light switch and Rear Brake light switch. The first 2 switches have a BLUE and BROWN wire attached to them. The Rear Brake light switch has BLUE W/ WHITE and BROWN.
The tail light assembly has 3 wires going to it. BLUE and RED and BLACK W/ YELLOW.

One thing to do is remove the lamp from the socket and read voltage from RED to BLACK W/ YELLOW. That is the headlight circuit. Then read from BLUE to BLACK W/ YELLOW. That is the brake Circuit.

Also need to check that the lamp is correct. The 21/5 that Kawasaki has might not be a 1157. 2 contacts on the bottom and offset, one high and one low, alignment pins are on the 1157. Can't see the configuration on the Kawasaki bulb that I found on the web site.

I just looked at my lamp and it is OEM and has the high-low configuration.

Hope some of this might help.
 

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good call rmax i do agree that would probably make it hot at the switches
 

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Found a relay that might be the cause...

Check the Starter Circuit Relay for the brake. Its located under the seat at the rear of the bike, next to the roll over sensor. It has 4 wires on it. BLACK W/ WHITE, BLACK, BLUE, BLACK W/ YELLOW. If the blue has power to it, then one of the switches is made. Unplug them 1 at a time and that will show you which one is bad. IF that doesn't tell you anything, then pull the connector off the relay and check for continuity, 0 ohms, on the relay where the BLACK and the BLACK W/ WHITE wires were attached. IF you get continity there then the contacts are stuck shut. Tap it till it opens and you get a reading of infinity, or just replace the relay...

Hope that helps...
 

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I might be wrong...

I just looked at the parts breakdown between the 650 SRA and 650 i. The relays are different, so the wires might be different as well as the location. It's hard to believe the difference in the parts layout for almost the same bike.

That said, all the info in my previous post might still help, but I didn't want to seem like a complete idiot. I just retired as an industrial electrician with 43 years experience, with some of that as a Nuclear trained Electrician on a Submarine out of Groton, CT. Finished up with some reserve time and retired as a Chief Electrician...
 

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Here is the wiring schematic for the lighting system on a 05 750 brute. Should almost be identical to what you have. Maybe it will help.

If you become a manual and maps subscriber you can download your service manual. it's only $9 for 2 years. Great investment!
 

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I take that back, just realized you said you have a 650 SRA :34:that is no where near your wiring schematic lol. Researching yours for you now.
 

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There,
This is for a SRA. Looks like all 3 brake switches tie into the start circuit as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
wow couldnt have done it without you guys. the neutral overide switch is actually inside the push button starter box on the left side under the brake handle. this ties into the brake switch lines and thus runs off of the brake switches. there are two plastic tabs that hold this nuetral overide switch flush into the starter box. my tabs had broken and when the brake lever is let go it actually pushed the whole switch assembally instead of just pushing the switch. although this wasnt noticable from looking at it, the click at the relay should be heard if this is working properly like another post had mentioned earlier. i believe this may help others in the future because these plastic tabs seem to be very weekly made. I hope i have explained exactly what was wrong for future problems if anyone doesnt understand what i mean just let me know and ill try again.
 

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glad to know your good to go!!!! thank you for sharing this with us will probably come in handy for someone else one day
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
no thank you and everyone else who posted. also the 1157 bulb is a great replacement bulb for the rear if anyone needs to know its working excatly how it suppose to now that i fixed the switch
 

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I knew it was there somewhere on the handle bar! Glad you got it working! :thumbup:

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
yep you were definately right and i think you for telling me about it. i was stuborn and thought you were talking about the two wires going to the break switch on the oposite side but the neutral overide switch also has two wires going to it i do believe they are diferrent color than the break switch though.
 

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So I have a dumb question to ask. I am experiencing the same problem of having my tail light stay on while riding. So I started by checking the right brake switch. It has a blue and brown wire with female connectors going into the switch which has male connections. I tested both wires and both wires lit up my test light. I don't think both wires should be hot, but then I got to thinking that I don't know how the switch should work. I know I should know this, and I feel dumb for asking. Should both wires be hot or is my switch bad? Thanks in advance.
 

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So I need to find the neutral override switch on the left brake lever. Once I find this I will test the wires. If the wires are hot does that mean the switch is bad? If both wires are not hot coming out, will that mean there is a short in the wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The override ties into the brake switches so if there both got it will be also.the switch is actually pushed in when the brake lever is let go. My switch was lose inside it's housing causing the switch to stay open leaving the brake light on and i was able to start in gear without brakes. The switch has to plastic tabs that hold it in place and mine were broke. Just keep looking it's on there. Also check the light bulb to make sure it's ok
 
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