So that you can cut your fan on whenever you want.. Also, if your temp sensor ever goes out while you're on the trail on a hot day, you can flip the switch & run the fan. Keep riding instead of having to be towed back to the truck and spend the rest of the day riding ***** w/ your buddy b/c your bike overheated.
Ok guys I'm having a similar problem I just put a toggle on my g/f s Polaris so seems pretty simple to me I got a power wire, hooked it to power on switch , ground to ground and accesory I t'd into the fan wire. Flipped the switch and yes worked great went for a ride bike overheated, fan was not coming on automatic. Figured maybe temp sensor but if I unplug the accessory wire from toggle that runs to fan and the fan works normally. So I'm stumped now. None of u guys said anything about a ground wire on toggle. Is that maybe not suppose to be hooked up? I would think it would
Ok guys I'm having a similar problem I just put a toggle on my g/f s Polaris so seems pretty simple to me I got a power wire, hooked it to power on switch , ground to ground and accesory I t'd into the fan wire. Flipped the switch and yes worked great went for a ride bike overheated, fan was not coming on automatic. Figured maybe temp sensor but if I unplug the accessory wire from toggle that runs to fan and the fan works normally. So I'm stumped now. None of u guys said anything about a ground wire on toggle. Is that maybe not suppose to be hooked up? I would think it would
12V switches are just switches not really made to be run on a high amp load like a fan you may have fried the switch internals. ... switches are fine alone on leds and small amp things like that but to run a fan you need a relay to handle the load
I want to install a toggle switch to manually turn my fan on. I've read the write ups on how to do. Seems pretty simple. But can't find any mention of what gauge wire to use when splicing into acc. plug and blue wire from fan.
I ran 14 AWG as well. Spliced and soldered all the connections. This method is my favorite. I solder it then wrap it in electrical tape then coat it with liquid electrical tape just to play it safe.
They make inline splices ^ That do that same thing only a lot easier. I know a lot of people dont like them b/c they pinch the wire but, I've never had any issues w/ using them. so far anyway.
Well I sold the brute a few years ago. So I dunno if it's still holding up, but I ran it like that for a while w/o any issues. I just used them on my winch install as well, to tie the access. wire from the switch into the 12v plug on the dash.
I spliced in a 4-pole trailer light connection on my old '66 Chevy pickup over 30 years ago and they are still good to go. Not ever submerged in the mud as such but lots of dirt and road grim and water splashing on them through the years. I like 'em.
I am having the same issue as some of the above. Hooked everything up correctly as stated here, accessory to supply, load to blue fan wire, ground to earth on switch. When wired like this the switch activation and led light work perfectly. As soon as the auto temp sensor triggers the fan it pops the fan breaker and auto activation won't work. If I unhook the ground on the switch, the led doesn't work but the switch activation and auto temp activation work perfectly. So for some reason the auto temp activation doesn't like the ground to the switch. It shorts out and pops the breaker under the seat.
Right now I just left the ground off. I'd rather have the switch and auto temp working than the led.
Does anyone know a fix for this tho? Is there something else that needs to be wired in somewhere to make the ground on the switch not short out the auto activation?
This isn't the end of the world, I just wanted to have everything working as intended.
My machine is a 2010 Brute 750. Switch is a standard automotive 12V switch with led. Any help is appriciated.
Thanks,
~Alan
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