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Removing fuel tank & fuel pump

36K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  88rxn/a 
#1 ·
After removing the rear rack and fenders you will need to remove these two bolts out of the Electronics Tray. I only remove these two and just pick up the rear of the tray instead of removing it completely.

Auto part Engine Fuel line Automotive engine part Carburetor


Go ahead then and disconnect the Fuel Tank Vent and just move it out of the way.

Auto part Engine Vehicle Fuel line Car


Lift the rear of the Electronics Tray and unplug the wire harness from the fuel pump.

Auto part Fuel line Wire Engine Carburetor


Pull back the side plastic and you will see the one bolt on the front of the tank (10mm) I usually take a rope and tie the side plastic back out of the way.

Auto part Fuel line Wire Automotive fuel system Engine


At the rear of the tank there will be two bolts (10mm), remove these.

Auto part Engine Automotive exterior Bumper Gas
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Here is the Fuel Line and the Pump Plug from the Wire Harness. Slide the tank out and rest it on the rear tire. If you haven't already unplug the pump from the wire harness. Using a small flat screwdriver gently pull up the lock clip on the fuel line and then just slide the line off (the clip does not come all of the way off just pull up on it till it stops).

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7212&d=1308763274

Remove each of the bolts (8mm) then remove the retainer ring from the pump. Be careful not to drop any trash in the tank. Then pull the pump assembly out being careful not to hang up the float for the sending unit, you don't want to bend this or the fuel guage will not read correctly.

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7213&d=1308763314

If you are wanting to do the Skid Pan Mod this is the time to do it. There is one lock clip in the back pictured and one up front. Just pull these two clips and seperate the tank and tank skid.

http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7214&d=1308763349

I used a 1 1/2" hole saw and drill to cut the holes in my skid. I made sure to do the corners and along the bottom edge where mud and sand is going to want to gather then I put several holes in the bottom. I think I ended up with 31 holes total. Happy cutting.

Auto part Helmet


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Here is the fuel pump assembly. You will need to use a small screwdriver and carefully pry up the cap over the sock filter to get it out of the way. Then use a pair of pliers to compress the tooth lock and move it down on the filter housing.

Gas Fluid Plastic


On the opposite side in behind the sending unit float (red arrow) you will need a long screwdriver to reach down inside and release the other tooth lock to finish removing the filter housing. Then using your screwdriver release the four clips all the way around the pump assembly. Once these are loose you can remove the actual pump from inside the assembly.

Electrical wiring Fuel pump Electrical supply Automotive fuel system


And here is the pump. There is an O-Ring on the outleck neck, be careful not to lose this. This took me about 24 minutes to get to this point and that was stopping to take pictures. Very easy to do.

Hand Finger Cylinder Metal
 
#3 · (Edited)
I will be trying to replace the expensive Kawi fuel pump with a cheap fuel pump off of ebay to see if it will work as an adequate alternative. $30 fuel pump versus a $500 fuel pump, worth a shot. I will let everybody know what happens as soon as I get the pump and get it installed. Thanks to Bootlegger for his help tracking down a fuel pump
 
#4 ·
Here are the three pics that did not show up in the thread above for some reason. Sorry about that. Maybe a moderator can fix this thread to make it a little cleaner. Sorry this is the first time I have tried to do this.



Attachment 7204
Auto part Engine Automotive exterior Bumper Gas


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#7 ·
Jim, I think this will work. I can't wait till you get your pump. I'm glad you are willing to use your bike as out test model...lol. It was nice talking with you last night. I think we will get this to work just fine.
 
#8 ·
Yeah boot if not I'll try to by an old fuel cell with a bad pump and put a new pump in it for someone! I mean really almost $500 for a pump? Thats just not right!
 
#9 ·
We will know in a few days. It was good talking to you too Mark, and I am always willing to use my bike as a test subject if it will help people in the end.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Jim, I really think it will work. I don't see why it wouldn't to be honest. I Know a new oem KQ fuel pump is like $380 I think. IMO, thats just crazy. :rippedhand: Not when the pump itself is not over $30. I mean come on...:rant: Just like the TP sensor. I had to buy a new one today for my King Quad. Its very rare that they go out on the KQ's. The retail was a $167. Found one for a $122 shipped from ProCaliber.
 
#11 ·
Well this is the whole reason MIMB has the community that it has. Everybody is will ing to help each other out to benefit all of us. It is not just certain people looking out for themselves, we are here for everybody that enjoys the hobby of atving.

:rockn::mimbrules::rockn:
 
#12 ·
Any updates?
 
#13 ·
I cannot belive that they charge that much for that little pump. :eek:
I hope it works out for ya.
 
#14 ·
Nice right up by the way, the skid pan mod is a must, i have done mine and will be doing popokawidaves next.
 
#15 ·
Ironically, if this $30.00 pump works, watch the price on OEM units...they'll eventually drop like a box of rocks!
 
#16 ·
When the auto manufacturers started making fuel pump modules for thier vehicles starting back in the mid to late 90's, they were extremely expensive as well. Truth is some of them still are. Then the after market industry stepped in and offered replacement pumps for the modules ( this is exactly like the brutes now ). The reason that all of these companies have done this is a liability issue with the vehicles. To be blunt they were/are affraid that the vehicles could have some catastrophic issues, none the least of fire! In reality the after market pump replacements for the original pump modules have been a huge success for them. Because they have sold the correct pumps for the vehicles ( not too much pressure or volume ), and almost every vehilce produced with fuel injection has at least one pressure regulator on it. So they are pretty safe even if you by chance got a pump with too much pressure. The Brute is supposed to run at least 43 psi of pressure at an idle, with a maximum pressure of 43.5 psi ( directly from the service manual ). Since I have not had a chance to take the brute's pump module apart yet, I am not completely sure that there is a regulator involved. Knowing how these fuel injected systems work, tells me that there more than likely is one. What I'm getting at here is if say 50 psi is applied to the injectors that are programed to run at 43 psi, your gonna be way rich for sure. Plus continuing to run it like that could be way bad in both the motors life and your safety.

I have been watching E-Bay closely for a used brute pump module, especially one that is known to be bad. When I can get my hands on it then I can see it's design and better know which after market pump to use! When I find it and am sure it's safe, you all will know!
 
#18 ·
Yeah I'd like to know for myself as well.... my pump has a couple hundred miles on it now, and I'd like to upgrade to some larger injectors so I don't know what the extra demand for fuel will do to my pump.
 
#20 ·
FRN the stock pumps have a rating of around 16 gph at 43 psi. I would sure think that they are capable of most any injector you put in it. I'm still working on an economical, safe, and relatively easy replacement. Once I get ahold of a old bad pump module, it won't take long from there.
 
#21 ·
I am sorry that I have not been able to keep much of an eye on this thread. As P425 stated I am in Singapore. I was originally slated to return home 28 July but it looks like my stay here has been extended for 3 or 4 more weeks. I promise as soon as I get home this is very near the top of my priority list. Below only my beautiful wife and two daughters. I am still very hopeful that this pump will be able to be modded to work and every chance I get while over here I am doing research on aftermarket fuel pump choices for the Brutes. When I get home I AM going to make this work. And after I figure out everything that needs to be done to make these pumps work I will let everybody here know FIRST. Then in a couple of months I am going to go and get my 'Gade 1000X!!! :flames:
 
#22 ·
We decided to try this on my dad's brute. We bought the equivalent pump to the one yall stated from Napa, it was too tall and we had to modify the factory plastic housing to fit it in and then had to make a spacer for the top of the tank due to the pump being too tall. We cranked it but it would not run. Its a 45 psi pump so I assumed it was getting too much fuel, it was also getting hot while trying to keep it running, seemed lean but could have been from excess fuel burn off. We bought a pressure regulator with a return line and a fuel pressure gauge. I'm going to hook them up today. My question is there is spot for a vacuum line to reduce pressure at idle, can I use the factory vacuum line ports that are in the heads? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
 
#23 ·
Any place between the throttle bodies and the intake to the head would work for a vacuum line.
I knew that any pump delivering more than the maximum pressure of 43.5 psi would causle problems with it running right. The fuel injectors are programmed to open for a determined time according to the ECU's map. The ECU can't compensate for a higher pressure on the injectors because it's assuming that you are running 43 psi. The extra pressure will put in more fuel per squirt plain and simple. The problem with the fuel injected brutes is they are basically a "dumb system". It is not looking at fuel mixture in the exhaust so it can not compensate for any changes in (out of OEM equipment sensors). Since I have not taken one of the original fuel pump modules apart yet I couldn't tell you how the original system regulates pressure. Although from what you have described it is obviously in the fuel pump itself.

On a side note I remember something in the service manual that explained how to sync the two throttlebodies, so there should be a vacuum port on both sides I would assume.

Good luck!
 
#26 ·
I just bought a fuel pump from a company called CNT racing on amazon .
This weekend I will be replacing my pump since I have had problems with mine. Thanks for the write up!
 
#27 ·
Changed out the pump yesterday and changed plugs while I was at it. For the most part it fixed the hesitation. But it still would not prime the pump once when turning on the key. I replaced all the main fuses a while ago with waterproof ones so I know That's not the problem. I heard the relay click but no fuel pump.
Does that mean a wire problem between the relay and fuel pump?
 

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