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SECONDARY MOD

13K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  2010Bruterider 
#1 ·
Hey thought i give a little write up on doing the secondary mod on the arctic cats. This is my first write up so dont kill me.
The tools required to do this would be a
1- clutch tool
1- large ring pliers
1- 1/4 socket
1- 7/16 socket

BELT COVER REMOVAL
Now you will have to remove the floorboards off the bike and is also easier to remove the belt cover if u take the floorboard bracket off of the bike. Now u can use a impact with a star drive to remove the cover bolts but i dont recommend that cause it can possibly mess the threads up (learned the hard way) cant remeber exact size of the star drive but i will find out and post it. There is two longer cover bolts on the left side of the cover (to ur left of the cover) they should be at the top left corner make sure u put those seprate so u put those back in the right place. As you remove the belt cover be extra careful cause it is possible to save the belt cover gasket if u do break it. It will cost u around $15 bucks to replace im on my third one.


PRIMARY REMOVAL
Now to remove the primary u will have to use the 1 1/4 socket it is a normal thread on that nut. It will come of with just the rollers and outer plate assembly. To remove the primary hold the plate and use the impact cause the plate will spend if u dont hold on to it. While u have the primary off this would be best time to either drill out your rollers or replace them with lighter ones. I wouldnt suggest either one but that is all personal choice.


SECONDARY REMOVAL
To remove the secondary u will use the 1 7/16 socket and it is also normal thread on the nut to. It comes off with both plates, the helix, and the spring. To remove it hold the plate while u use a impact on it. If u dont hold on to the plate the secondary will just spin and u wont get it off.


RECLOCKING THE SECONDARY
This is easier if u have something to hold the secondary. U will want to place the clutch tool onto the secondary and im guessing most of everyone can figure out how they work. After u put it on u will want to tighten it down with either a wrench or impact this can be very diffcult to do. There is a retaining clip that u need to remove it is located on top of the helix. Need bout 1/8 of a inch or so. Have a sharpie handy at this moment. You will need to mark the location of the helix on the upper plate the fingers of the helix need to line back up in the same spot later. It is possible the helix will get stuck on the shaft as ur removing the tool. If that happens tapp on the helix softly and it will eventually pop up. Let the spring completly relax. Look at the top of the helix and u will see four holes numbered 1 to 4 lift the helix and turn it counter clockwise 90 degrees. This is were u will need someone there to help u there is no other option to this. lol. Have ur buddy tighten the nuts on the clutch tool till the helix finger are right above the rubber stops on the upper plate. Your marks will not be lined back up. So take the plate in one hand and a strap wrench in around the helix. Then have ur buddy turn the nuts on the clutch tool till ur marks line up. After that u will notice the secondary is under pressure against the rubber stops (clockwise pressure) which in turns keeps the secondary in a lower gear. Dont forget to reinsert the retaining clip on the helix. lol. THen reinstall the secondary back on.


PUTTING BELT BACK ON
Take one of the cover bolts and place it into the hole on the secondary. There is four different holes but if u look carefully you can tell only one of them is threaded. Carefully insert the cover bolt into that hole and go slow cause it will strip the threads on the bolts if u dont go slow on it. It will start to spread the secondary apart. Once far enough apart place belt back on and slide it on to the sheave on the shaft the primary goes. Place the primary back on and tighten everything back down. Now slowly remove the cover bolt and spin the plates and let the belt work in as you remove the cover bolt. Double check everything and make sure belt is in properly and everything is torqued down.

Now all that is left is to make sure u carefully place the cover gasket back on and reinsert all the cover bolts and make sure the long ones go back in the right spot. Replace floorboards and bam ur done. lol. Dont have access to pics of it being done but i will see what i can find.
 
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#2 ·
what does this mod do for the bike?
 
#3 ·
it just keep the secondary in a low gear so u have more low end on ur bike.
 
#4 ·
Witch years, models, and motors is this for?
 
#5 ·
I have heard of people doing it for all the auto bikes from years 05 and up. But it might go back a little further on dates that's just all I have seen and heard of people doing it.
 
#7 ·
looks good. I spaced it out some just to break up the paragraphs... Great write up and thanks for contributing! :rockn:
 
#9 ·
is this the same as gettin new clutch springs?
 
#10 ·
i thought i would add alittle more insight on this. This mod increases secondary pretension increasing spring rate. It is just like replacing the spring with a more aggressive one. It also increases side grip and shift rate. slower upshift with more aggressive backshit. Keeps rpms higher at given cvt ratio. The right up written is for the 07 to current 650-1000. the 500 auto is different but can also be reclocked. There is no helix on the 500 or 400 models. the 450 is a kymoco roller secondary and can alos be reclocked. Not sure on the procedure.
 
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#17 ·
A friend of mine just got a 500 auto. I'd like to help him out with this mod. You said the 500 was different, is the helix part the only thing that you skip?
 
#13 ·
Brute secondary is different, there is no provision to re-clock you have to change the spring.
 
#15 ·
50/50. It's awesome that cat left us this ability, but then again they did also put that crappy wet-clutch up front..............
 
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