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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of installing the secondary spring and can't get the pulley off the shaft. I've got an 04 and it's never been removed. I can get it to move about 1/8 of an inch but not any further. I tried a three jaw puller but even tightening the puller up by hand the sheave part of the pulley started flexing. The way I got it to move as far as it has was to have someone pull on it with both hands while I tapped on the shaft with a brass drift, then I'd squirt some penetrating oil on the splines and tighten it back with the nut, then pull and tap, then tighten, pull, tap, tighten. After repeating this 8 or ten times it'll now move about an 1/8th. I've thought about heating the pulley slightly with a propane torch to try and get it to expand but I think by the time I got the steel splined part of the pulley hot enough to expand I would damage the aluminum.

It looks like there are three distinct places in the casting of the pulley that looks like it could be tapped out and use a steering wheel style puller to remove this beast. Has anyone ever tried this?

Right now I have the right wheels up on cinder blocks to help the penetrating oil seep into the splines and left it over night.

Can anyone think of something I may have overlooked?
 

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I've taken of several secondarys and all of them just slide right off except one. It was a major PITA to remove. But what i done to get it off is what you are already trying to do. I sprayed WD-40 on the shaft and let it soak for a bit. Then i screwed the nut back on the shaft till it was flush with the threads. I had a friend tap on the nut with a hammer while i had both feet against the floor boards and a hand on each side of the secondary pulley and pulled as hard as i could. with each whack of the hammer it would move just a hair if that but It eventually came off this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Once you did finally get the pulley off, were you able to clean the splines and slip it back on or was there some kind of damage causing it to be stuck in the first place?
 

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Nope. Once it was off it just slide back on very easy.

Be sure you clean all the penetrating oil off before you put it back together. Don't want any of that slinging on your belt hahaha.
 

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i would put a little never sieze on the splines when you put it back on.
 

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I thought about taking it off more than once every 5 years. LOL
LOL that might help.

Seriously though i don't know what causes it. The one i had trouble with was a 08 Brute with only a couple hundred miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, finally get the pulley off and go to install the lime green I bought from lilbigtonka and it will just barely compress small enough to install the snap ring. It's a KSS8 from EPI and according to their web site it's supposed to fit my P700. As you can see, it's MUCH longer. I'm going to call EPI tomorrow and see if I can get some answers. Anyone else have this much difference in the stock spring compared to an aftermarket EPI?

 

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If I remember right, my almond spring looked like yours compared to the stocker.
 

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thats right ,it is like that.
 

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When we did my buddies we wondered the same thing but it went back together and works great!!
 

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That looks about right. Heres a pic of the EPI green i had installed in my Brute next to the stock Brute spring.

You can see how much difference there is and the EPI green is one step lighter then the EPI Lime Green.
 

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If you think that one is long you should try the red or yellow. It's normal to be longer. I had a problem with my lime being too fat. I even tried to install it again this weekend after sanding he paint off of it to see if that was the problem, but didn't work. The think is a good 1/8" too fat. When I compress it the rings won't go into the sleeves at each end.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was mistaken about never pulling my secondary pulley. Read my post in the worst mod thread and you'll understand. Some things are best forgotten. LOL
 

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The length of the spring is proper. You really have to compress the sheet out of it.
As said, look at that yellow spring. It's a hoot. Very strong.
 

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hey man that spring is for your bike, so it will fit but yeah you def have to compress it alot to get it on and snap ring over it. the spring is alot thicker so therefore is going to be kinda tough to compress....but you will get it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wasn't doubting whether or not you sold me the right spring, I was questioning EPI's ability to properly package it. LOL EPI recently sent me a wrong spring for a Yamaha I'm working on.

I put it in there and it sure looks like after I get the snap ring in there and release the tension the coils are almost touching each other. There's almost no room for compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, I got it installed and drove it last night without the cover in place. Everything works good. My primary is worn out. The sheaves have grooves worn in them, real bad grooves. All the bushings are worn out, weight bushings worn out, pretty much if it moves inside the primary, it's worn out. I checked and the kawi price for the assembly is over $500. I found a good used primary off of a 05 Brute at a local salvage yard for $150. I've looked at it and it's in almost new condition. I've compared them side by side and can't see any difference. I took my digital calipers and measured the large end of the tapered hole. Everything seems identical. The weights and springs may be different but I can always swap them with my old ones. Anyone ever used a BF primary in a Prairie?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The first set of numbers in the kawi part number are the same. The numbers after the dash change up.

Without the cover on I really didn't want to get into it to hard and take a chance of my leg getting caught up in all that and ripped to shreds. I'm picking up the used primary this afternoon and should have it all together tonight. I'll give it a test run and let ya know how it all works.
 
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