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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 650 Prairie with all the mods in my sig would yall recomend changing the springs in my clutch, i've gotten mixed signals from people. Thanks!!:rockn:
 

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yep. I would Change the secondary spring.

Maroon (Lighter than stock. Not the same as the maroon primary)
Black (Almost same as stock)
Almond (Good for 27'' and lighter 28'')
Green (Good for heavier 27'' and all 28" )
Lime green(Good for heavier 28'' and maybe 29.5")
Red (Perfect for 29.5'' and the lighter 30")
Yellow (Good on only 30'' or larger most aggressive tires)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, so i should go with the green?
 

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I agree.Those 28's are a load for the stock springs.The green would be a big help.

Have you had any belt problems in the past?
 

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i had a lime green and was to much green was ok i got the almond in mine it runs fine and im sorta a speed demon but the outlaws are heavier than mine and i would go to a maroon or black primary to go with the secondary spring there will be a slight stall put you get used to it......wat do u think polaris????
 

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Black primary??

I have the maroon in mine. I love it had close to no stall and pulls hard all the way through but the stock works pretty good to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree.Those 28's are a load for the stock springs.The green would be a big help.

Have you had any belt problems in the past?
I've only been running the 28" for a month or so, no belt problems yet and i've rode it pretty hard. So i guess everyone thinks the green secondary will be the way to go leaving the stock primary?
 

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i think theres a black might b wrong yeah i love my maroon u cant really feel the stall and i can go 30 and im not even on it
 

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^ I like my maroon primary too, I can go 30 & my front wheels arnt even on it... the ground that is!! :rockn:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the help guys, what else should I do to this thing, it's only got 125 hours on it so it's in very good shape.
 

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what do u mean by what else
 

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Lots man, Lots its only limited by your wallet:haha:
 

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true im saving for amr or flynt and vfj stage 3 and i think some laws or zillas depends on money like u said
 

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Has anybody checked their RPM's when changing the clutch parts? HP output has a HUGE affect on clutch tuning so elevation, temperature and mods all affect what will work. With my setup the stock clutching UNDER LOAD FULL THROTTLE would shift up to 7800 rpm and drop or jump up/down 500 rpm when the load changed then slowly recover. Now with the EPI kit it runs at 8300 rpm and doesn't move more than 150 rpm total. I don't have a Dyno to confirm at what RPM peak HP is made but this setup runs great. I don't claim expert status on ATV clutching but have been tuning sleds for 15 years and the general rule for them is to make no changes without monitoring shift point (RPM) and backshifting characteristics. What are you guys doing for comparison before and after the changes?
 

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^ Let's see, the ablilty to carry the front wheels for long distances, ability to out pull your buddies in a short race, ability to punch it from rolling 20mph & pull the front wheels up.... Those kinds of tests.. :rockn: :D lol
 

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i cant keep the front wheels down
 

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Real world performance is definitely the acid test, I just stick with what I know so went with monitoring the engine, it gets rid of the "feel" approach. On the other hand I went from being able to pull wheelies when punching the throttle to having to stay well below full throttle or the tires break free and won't lift the front end. Pavement is near scary the way if goes vertical. Buddy has a Can-Am 800 and wins long races due to top speed but I kill him off the line through the first couple hundred feet and in the mud. :aargh4: Long live the Brute Force! :rockn:
 
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