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Discussion Starter #1
Hey yawl. Gonna attempt to snorkel this week myself, should be interesting. Just wandering if there is anything that may be more current then whats in the How to post on it that anyone would want to share? Gonna print the post off from the HT and read and follow but know there is always something that may have been tweeked to work better.......
DOnt want to miss something petty that turns into something major.
Thanks for any suggestions.

MIMB Snorks:rockn:
 

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im here for ya kurly give me a call if you run into anything bro, but overall it is simple just take your time and make sure you mark all your pieces and test fit before any glue gets involved lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
im here for ya kurly give me a call if you run into anything bro, but overall it is simple just take your time and make sure you mark all your pieces and test fit before any glue gets involved lol
Thanks man, wont be the first time eh...LOL.

make sure you use a 3" rubber elbow on the airbox snorkel
10-4 on the 3" rubber!

When I think im thru and ready to test: Before I actually sink in the hole out back, I can simply cap the snorks and if it dies then Im good on the one but how do I check the others?
 

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to check the others it is simple just dunk it then come outta the hole and pull the plug on the belt cover and see if water comes out if not your good if so find the leak seal it and clean the inside of your cover and good to go but i got mine perfect the first time lol just be sure on your air intake that can lead to alot of money hahaha meaning i get your backs and troopers and you get a crank lol
 

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some people test them with incense. cigarette or whatever other combustible you may have will also work. light it and let it smoke near each joint with bike running. if the smoke is drawn toward the joint any at all then you obviously have a problem. also, you can cover your air intake snorkel with your hand and it should die in less than 6 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
lol just be sure on your air intake that can lead to alot of money hahaha meaning i get your backs and troopers and you get a crank lol
LOL, now thats motivating.....thanks for the encouragement.


Thanks P.....gonna start on it Tuesday
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How hard is it to get back into the CVT cover once this is all installed? Figuring on changing my sec spring due to tire change, might order today to do it while its apart. But if I cant get it in time, wandering how hard its gonna be?
 

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it's not too bad, its easiest to take th side cover off, or at leasst loose at the back, then you can slip the 3" to 2" rubber coupler off the top of the CVT cover, and just kinda prop it up against the frame then proceed w/ the CT cover removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool thanks. Just got back from Lowes, cant wait till Tuesday as I planned:haha:, heading out to start now. Gonna have to run to town to get a T once I get in to figure out what size I need.
 

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yep, if the T you are talking about it to replace the little white canister you dont need that. we dont have that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
AHEM, yea was just testing yawl to see who was paying attention, of course I dont need that stupid T ;)..........lol......IM SO GONNA MESS THIS UP!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
naw it's easy. just take yer time and measure everything right. dont end up like me with a ghetto curve in yo stacks

LOL.....well im heading out to follow the instructions I just printed off so will see. Do I silicone these rubber couplers on the inside before PVC insertion or just run a bead around the top after the PVC is inserted, or none at all? Thanks :thinking:
 

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i used no silicon. and it does not leak. i have seen silicone used and it made it hell to tighten the clamps. it keep sliding ride off from the pressure.
 

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I ended up buying a couple extra fittings when I went to Lowes (just in case). I bought a extra 66* and 1 or 2 22.5* fittings. They made it a little easier for me to get the stacks centered a little better and just a little easier overall IMO.

Pretty sure the PVC cement will be water tight, but I did put a bead of silicone around all my fittings after I had everything already glued and where I wanted it. Just in case!! Everything has been good so far....No problems at all! Also when you go and get all your fittings, you might wanna get some caps for the 90's or whatever you use on top, so you can cap it off when washing the bike or storing it...
 

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tennis balls work good for caps. n there cheaper
 

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i used no silicon. and it does not leak. i have seen silicone used and it made it hell to tighten the clamps. it keep sliding ride off from the pressure.

I used silicon and had that problem. You have to just tight alittle at a time to let the silicon set.


Not trying to hi-jack ur thread but did anyone have a problem with the 3" elbow being right up against the handle bar bolts?? I think I did something wrong but it was right before mud nats and was in a hurry to get it done.

scott
 

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i was wondering do i need to step up to 3in elbow i put the 2in on my air box
 
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