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Tightening the Belt: **See photos below, first photo is incorrect deflection, second is correct deflection)
The belt deflection can be measured by placing a straight edge "ruler" ontop of the belt from the secondary to the primary. Using approx. 13 lbs of pressure with your finger, push down on the belt in the center between the primary and secondary. With another ruler or tape measure, in mm or inches measure how far down the belt goes from the straight edge "ruler" you laid across the top of the primary and secondary. This is your deflection. For the BF, normal deflection is 22mm-27mm or 0.87~1.06in. I have found that 22mm-25mm is the best. If you are around 27mm your gonna want to tighten it. The way the belt is tightened is to remove a determined shim out of the secondary sheave by measuring the shims in the sheave and determining how many mm you need to decrease. (The rule of thumb is: 0.1mm (0.004in.) change in spacer thickness equals about 1.3 mm(0.051in) change in belt deflection.) There are 5 shims availabable with different thicknesses. When Kawi shimmed your quad they put in your secondary what they needed to get your belt in proper deflection. Some people have 2 shims, some have 3. Others can be purchased at your kawi dealer. These are what is available:
Spacers
Part No. -------------Thickness
92026-0034 --------- 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
92026-1569 --------- 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
92026-1617 --------- 0.8 mm (0.032 in.)
92026-1565 --------- 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
92026-1570 --------- 1.4 mm (0.055 in.)
What happens when you remove a shim for tightening, the secondary sheaves move closer to the housing while the primary stays the same. This is what tightens your belt.
3 tools you absolutely need are the spring compressor, circlip remover and primary puller. All the rest are usually in a metric tool kit: 10mm socket CVT cover, 19mm socket for primary, 27mm socket for secondary. Flat tip screwdriver to take out the four bushings that hold the secondary together. Broomstick to hold the primary. 1/4 drive or extension hold the secondary pretty good if you can wedge it in the outer sheave and floorboard just right. Brake cleaner to clean out all the belt dust and trash and moly grease for the little bushings and the O rings on the secondary shafts. Oh and a torque wrench so you don't drive the primary back in to far. You can measure the outer sheaves on both in relation to the top of the inside CVT fixed casing if you don't have a torque wrench prior to removing them so when you tighten them back up you get the primary back to the same measurement and whatever you shim the secondary down to should be minus in your new measurement when your done.
To get to the shims, you have to remove the primary clutch and take off the belt. Then remove the secondary and place it into the spring compressor, make a mark on each sheave so when you put it back together they are the same, compress it, remove the circlip and decompress the spring. Pop out the bushing in the center of the sheaves and pull apart. You should then see the shims. If you have a gap tool, you can measure the shims and determine which one to take out to acheive the desired new deflection based on what your starting deflection was.
Belt Light Reset
To reset, turn ignition off and pull cvt cover. Put switch inside cover back into "on" postion. Remove seat and disconnect the 2 connectors grey and black and reverse them. They are located if sitting on quad in right rear corner. The grey one is not connected to anything, it's just a reset plug. Grey into black and black into grey. On top of the CVT cover is a black connector that goes to the switch inside the cover, disconnect that at this time. With the 2 still reversed and the black one disconnected, turn the key to the on, but don't start the quad. Observe the belt light. When it stops flashing really fast and starts flashing slow, the belt light is reset. Turn key off, and put the 2 connectors under the seat back to their original connectors and plug the connector switch for the CVT back in. Your done.
*If it's just the 100 hour causing the light to flash, you do not have to remove the CVT cover and flip the switch. Just swap the plugs and follow the rest of the procedure mentioned above.
The belt deflection can be measured by placing a straight edge "ruler" ontop of the belt from the secondary to the primary. Using approx. 13 lbs of pressure with your finger, push down on the belt in the center between the primary and secondary. With another ruler or tape measure, in mm or inches measure how far down the belt goes from the straight edge "ruler" you laid across the top of the primary and secondary. This is your deflection. For the BF, normal deflection is 22mm-27mm or 0.87~1.06in. I have found that 22mm-25mm is the best. If you are around 27mm your gonna want to tighten it. The way the belt is tightened is to remove a determined shim out of the secondary sheave by measuring the shims in the sheave and determining how many mm you need to decrease. (The rule of thumb is: 0.1mm (0.004in.) change in spacer thickness equals about 1.3 mm(0.051in) change in belt deflection.) There are 5 shims availabable with different thicknesses. When Kawi shimmed your quad they put in your secondary what they needed to get your belt in proper deflection. Some people have 2 shims, some have 3. Others can be purchased at your kawi dealer. These are what is available:
Spacers
Part No. -------------Thickness
92026-0034 --------- 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
92026-1569 --------- 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
92026-1617 --------- 0.8 mm (0.032 in.)
92026-1565 --------- 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
92026-1570 --------- 1.4 mm (0.055 in.)
What happens when you remove a shim for tightening, the secondary sheaves move closer to the housing while the primary stays the same. This is what tightens your belt.
3 tools you absolutely need are the spring compressor, circlip remover and primary puller. All the rest are usually in a metric tool kit: 10mm socket CVT cover, 19mm socket for primary, 27mm socket for secondary. Flat tip screwdriver to take out the four bushings that hold the secondary together. Broomstick to hold the primary. 1/4 drive or extension hold the secondary pretty good if you can wedge it in the outer sheave and floorboard just right. Brake cleaner to clean out all the belt dust and trash and moly grease for the little bushings and the O rings on the secondary shafts. Oh and a torque wrench so you don't drive the primary back in to far. You can measure the outer sheaves on both in relation to the top of the inside CVT fixed casing if you don't have a torque wrench prior to removing them so when you tighten them back up you get the primary back to the same measurement and whatever you shim the secondary down to should be minus in your new measurement when your done.
To get to the shims, you have to remove the primary clutch and take off the belt. Then remove the secondary and place it into the spring compressor, make a mark on each sheave so when you put it back together they are the same, compress it, remove the circlip and decompress the spring. Pop out the bushing in the center of the sheaves and pull apart. You should then see the shims. If you have a gap tool, you can measure the shims and determine which one to take out to acheive the desired new deflection based on what your starting deflection was.
Belt Light Reset
To reset, turn ignition off and pull cvt cover. Put switch inside cover back into "on" postion. Remove seat and disconnect the 2 connectors grey and black and reverse them. They are located if sitting on quad in right rear corner. The grey one is not connected to anything, it's just a reset plug. Grey into black and black into grey. On top of the CVT cover is a black connector that goes to the switch inside the cover, disconnect that at this time. With the 2 still reversed and the black one disconnected, turn the key to the on, but don't start the quad. Observe the belt light. When it stops flashing really fast and starts flashing slow, the belt light is reset. Turn key off, and put the 2 connectors under the seat back to their original connectors and plug the connector switch for the CVT back in. Your done.
*If it's just the 100 hour causing the light to flash, you do not have to remove the CVT cover and flip the switch. Just swap the plugs and follow the rest of the procedure mentioned above.
