got it from another forum, thought it might help out.
Ever since the introduction of the very first Vtwin Kawi, the 650 prairie, every model that's been released has had a low-speed timing retard. This is done by Kawasaki to protect their liability. Basically, the KILL the launch of their quads below 10 mph. The good news is that EVERY MODEL that they've ever released use a very simple method to do this. They "read" the speed sensor. The speed sensor works as an electromagnet. A "high point" passes near the sensor on the gear that it is facing. This produces a electric pulse. The faster the bike goes, the more often the pulse is read by the ECU. Once the ECU interprets that the pulses are going above 10mph, it "fixes" the timing, and the bike runs much much harder and more optimally. This is essentially a "sin" wave.
Enter the first generation of "holeshot module". Somewhere along the line, someone figured out that IF you "trick" the CDI/ECU into thinking it's above 10 mph, it will give full power(and timing) to the bike at all times. The next step was designing a product that would do this. Basically, what a holeshot module does, is send a 10+ mph signal to the CDI/ECU at all times. It takes 12v and modifies it into a "wave", which is essentially the function of a power inverter, only much simpler in this case. Basically, it completely replaces the signal of the speed sensor with it's own signal to accomplish the purpose of removing our timing retard and thus our LAG.
Ok, now the part that everyone is wanting to know. HOW do we make this work on our EFI bike? Well, it's simple really. Long story short, an EFI bike uses the same CDI ignition as other bikes, just by encorporating it into an ECU. It's inputs and outputs are all the same. So, you do this THE SAME way you did before! It's done using the same modules! It's even the same color wire! The only thing that is any different is the location that the wire enters the ECU. Where is this wire? Well, it's the FRONTMOST pink wire on the ECU. You have to cut this wire, and buttsplice in the holeshot module to the ECU. You leave the end coming from the sensor open. From there, you can wire the + and - to any place on the harness that is appropriate to get power when the bike is on, but not when it's off. Generally, it's easiest to go to the ignition circuit. Regardless, here are a few pics. The first is of the speed sensor itself(notice the pink wire). The second shows a rather pitiful version of where the pink wire is located, and how we tied into it.
What can you expect to gain from this? Abrupt/insane power out of the hole. This mod can be done all by itself, and requires NO other changes to work and provide a VERY LARGE power improvement at holeshot. After 10mph, it will not effect the quad in any way. However, if larger injectors are added along with a PC3 and a tunejob, it'll be easily FASTER than your buddy's equally modded carbed brute, in EVERY part of the powerband, with even better throttle response than he has. All things equal, these 3 mods will make the bike EVERY BIT as fast as an equally modified Outlander 800 in 300'.
Ever since the introduction of the very first Vtwin Kawi, the 650 prairie, every model that's been released has had a low-speed timing retard. This is done by Kawasaki to protect their liability. Basically, the KILL the launch of their quads below 10 mph. The good news is that EVERY MODEL that they've ever released use a very simple method to do this. They "read" the speed sensor. The speed sensor works as an electromagnet. A "high point" passes near the sensor on the gear that it is facing. This produces a electric pulse. The faster the bike goes, the more often the pulse is read by the ECU. Once the ECU interprets that the pulses are going above 10mph, it "fixes" the timing, and the bike runs much much harder and more optimally. This is essentially a "sin" wave.
Enter the first generation of "holeshot module". Somewhere along the line, someone figured out that IF you "trick" the CDI/ECU into thinking it's above 10 mph, it will give full power(and timing) to the bike at all times. The next step was designing a product that would do this. Basically, what a holeshot module does, is send a 10+ mph signal to the CDI/ECU at all times. It takes 12v and modifies it into a "wave", which is essentially the function of a power inverter, only much simpler in this case. Basically, it completely replaces the signal of the speed sensor with it's own signal to accomplish the purpose of removing our timing retard and thus our LAG.
Ok, now the part that everyone is wanting to know. HOW do we make this work on our EFI bike? Well, it's simple really. Long story short, an EFI bike uses the same CDI ignition as other bikes, just by encorporating it into an ECU. It's inputs and outputs are all the same. So, you do this THE SAME way you did before! It's done using the same modules! It's even the same color wire! The only thing that is any different is the location that the wire enters the ECU. Where is this wire? Well, it's the FRONTMOST pink wire on the ECU. You have to cut this wire, and buttsplice in the holeshot module to the ECU. You leave the end coming from the sensor open. From there, you can wire the + and - to any place on the harness that is appropriate to get power when the bike is on, but not when it's off. Generally, it's easiest to go to the ignition circuit. Regardless, here are a few pics. The first is of the speed sensor itself(notice the pink wire). The second shows a rather pitiful version of where the pink wire is located, and how we tied into it.
What can you expect to gain from this? Abrupt/insane power out of the hole. This mod can be done all by itself, and requires NO other changes to work and provide a VERY LARGE power improvement at holeshot. After 10mph, it will not effect the quad in any way. However, if larger injectors are added along with a PC3 and a tunejob, it'll be easily FASTER than your buddy's equally modded carbed brute, in EVERY part of the powerband, with even better throttle response than he has. All things equal, these 3 mods will make the bike EVERY BIT as fast as an equally modified Outlander 800 in 300'.