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Moose, HL, & Diamond G are the 3 I know who sell them I believe they all do the same thing. They go for about $100.
 
has anyone installed these modules on a 09 or 2010 efi brute yet??? Last year i test drove a 08 brute when i bought my grizzly 700..it seemed to launch and wheelie alot easier than my brand new 09 Brute 750...maybe the 09 is more retarded than the 08???

Do all 3 of these ICM's function the same or is one better than the others???

I see MSD makes a complete ignition that can do alot of stuff at a tune of 425$ though...yikes
 
I just put one on my brute this past weekend its an 09. I also went from 25's to 27's the same day. Needless to say without changing the clutching for the 27's I could still feel a difference off the line. The roads where to sloppy to get traction for catwalks without a second passengers weight over the rear axle....................SO I got the girfriend on and told her she needed to test out the new back seat and passenger pegs I had also put on that day as well. hehehehe. Needless to say she got real mad real fast, who new she did not like wheelies. Damit
So YES I noticed a difference with the module on the 09
Wes
 
Anyone have a link to the Moose or HighLifter one? I can not find one to work on a '09.
 
im deffiantly considering buying one... i got to get mine fixed first...
 
as long as it is a splice in module it will work.
they all work via the same principle.
 
could i just make my splice and connect to where the pink wire on the speed sensor rather than the where the pink wire enters the ecm? its a real tight fit trying to splice and connect too where the ecm is at. The pink wire on the speed sensor is the same pink wire on the ecm correct?

got it from another forum, thought it might help out.



Ever since the introduction of the very first Vtwin Kawi, the 650 prairie, every model that's been released has had a low-speed timing retard. This is done by Kawasaki to protect their liability. Basically, the KILL the launch of their quads below 10 mph. The good news is that EVERY MODEL that they've ever released use a very simple method to do this. They "read" the speed sensor. The speed sensor works as an electromagnet. A "high point" passes near the sensor on the gear that it is facing. This produces a electric pulse. The faster the bike goes, the more often the pulse is read by the ECU. Once the ECU interprets that the pulses are going above 10mph, it "fixes" the timing, and the bike runs much much harder and more optimally. This is essentially a "sin" wave.

Enter the first generation of "holeshot module". Somewhere along the line, someone figured out that IF you "trick" the CDI/ECU into thinking it's above 10 mph, it will give full power(and timing) to the bike at all times. The next step was designing a product that would do this. Basically, what a holeshot module does, is send a 10+ mph signal to the CDI/ECU at all times. It takes 12v and modifies it into a "wave", which is essentially the function of a power inverter, only much simpler in this case. Basically, it completely replaces the signal of the speed sensor with it's own signal to accomplish the purpose of removing our timing retard and thus our LAG.

Ok, now the part that everyone is wanting to know. HOW do we make this work on our EFI bike? Well, it's simple really. Long story short, an EFI bike uses the same CDI ignition as other bikes, just by encorporating it into an ECU. It's inputs and outputs are all the same. So, you do this THE SAME way you did before! It's done using the same modules! It's even the same color wire! The only thing that is any different is the location that the wire enters the ECU. Where is this wire? Well, it's the FRONTMOST pink wire on the ECU. You have to cut this wire, and buttsplice in the holeshot module to the ECU. You leave the end coming from the sensor open. From there, you can wire the + and - to any place on the harness that is appropriate to get power when the bike is on, but not when it's off. Generally, it's easiest to go to the ignition circuit. Regardless, here are a few pics. The first is of the speed sensor itself(notice the pink wire). The second shows a rather pitiful version of where the pink wire is located, and how we tied into it.





What can you expect to gain from this? Abrupt/insane power out of the hole. This mod can be done all by itself, and requires NO other changes to work and provide a VERY LARGE power improvement at holeshot. After 10mph, it will not effect the quad in any way. However, if larger injectors are added along with a PC3 and a tunejob, it'll be easily FASTER than your buddy's equally modded carbed brute, in EVERY part of the powerband, with even better throttle response than he has. All things equal, these 3 mods will make the bike EVERY BIT as fast as an equally modified Outlander 800 in 300'.
 
I have an 09 brute 750 efi. It has the DiamondG module, which splices in just like a moose or highlifter module (into the pink wire going into the ecu, and hot and gnd). It works just fine with the powercommander. It also works with the DynaFS module. Also, you do not want to tap into the pink wire down by the speed sensor. Even though there more room down there. That same pink wire goes to both the ECU and the actuator controller (the box behind the ecu). If you do, the actuator will also think the bike is always running faster than 10MPH and you wont be able to shift into 4wd. I learned this the hard way when I incorrectly installed my diamondG module on the actuator controller pink wire instead of the ecu pink wire. I noticed a huge difference. With power commander and DynaFS module, my brute would not pull wheelies in low unless I sit way back on the back rack (with 29.5 laws and clutch springs). After the DiamondG was correctly installed, I can sit on the seat as normal, hit the gas in low, and the front end pops up scarily! Its awesome! Best $100 anyone can spend on their brute.
 
two of my buddies installed these on there brutes and within a month they both broke the gear that the starter turns, on there brutes, they figured it is becasue the timinmg is more advanced at startedup making the engine harder to crank over... any body heard of this?
 
The gear issue is just a weak spot for the Brutes. If the starter ever kicks back more than likely your gonna break a tooth. The little HL boxes aren't much as for performance. The moose module will give more performance than the HL box but the Dynatek is the way to go on the Brutes prob the most bang for the buck as any of the bolt on mods available for the Brute especially the 05-07 carbed models.

KAWI RULES
 
Would it be worth 100 bucks to get the dg5 if I'm eventually gona get an msd or something similar Whenever I get an exaust
 
Can anyone answer the question above? Does the msd do away with the timing retard below 10mph?
Yes. It does away with the retard. If you nab on the gas hard from a dead stop, you better be sitting on the air box. Lol. Vforcejohn can hook u up.
 
Yes. It does away with the retard. If you nab on the gas hard from a dead stop, you better be sitting on the air box. Lol. Vforcejohn can hook u up.

Thanks man, I already talked to him and plan on ordering one as soon as I get paid. I got #1,#3 springs from him already and it feels way better than the epi springs. Itll sit on the rack in high from a dead stop with the 29.5s
 
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