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I'm going to be changing the front pinion type seal this weekend. After you pull the driveshaft out do you need to undo a pinion bolt to remove the coupler? Or can you remove and install the seals around it? Also what is the torque for that nut if it does indeed need to be removed? On a 2005 650 SRA.

Thanks in advance!
You should be able to take the seal out without taking the coupler out. But just in case, the nut is torqued to 18ftlbs on the 750s so it should be the same for yours.
 
And i take it there's another pinion nut in there to hold the backlash? Also I've heard there's an inner seal to change as well. Does that have to be changed or can you get by with just changing the outer seal?
 
And i take it there's another pinion nut in there to hold the backlash? Also I've heard there's an inner seal to change as well. Does that have to be changed or can you get by with just changing the outer seal?
No other seal. Yes, there is another larger retainer for the pinion bearing.
 
So I changed the outer seal and when i installed the new seal it pressed in to where the "step/groove stop" in the housing is I believe. I want to say the old seal was flush with the lip of the housing though, can't quite remember. Mine is countersunk just a little, but is installed uniform around the edges. Does this look right?
 
So I changed the outer seal and when i installed the new seal it pressed in to where the "step/groove stop" in the housing is I believe. I want to say the old seal was flush with the lip of the housing though, can't quite remember. Mine is countersunk just a little, but is installed uniform around the edges. Does this look right?
http://s59.photobucket.com/user/mrtosh/media/20131009_020159-1.jpg.html
They all start set flush to the outer case edge. They give you some lee-way because in time the wipe will groove the shaft/coupler and you will need to have it land on a new spot. That's why they have that extra movement... so you can set the new seal in a little if needed.

Watch it though because there have been some reports that some seals set all the way in interfere with a bearing or retainer and can become damaged. I'm not sure which ones though. If it starts leaking.. you know it has.
 
Chopper are you talking about 92049C? I checked that one and it looked good. I'm going to try and more the seal more flush with the housing tonight.
Don't..no one I know has ever moved the seal without warping or damaging it. Leave it or prepare to replace it....JMO

Choper..forgot about that one...hardly ever goes bad I guess. ;)
 
Lol alright I'll leave it alone. Kinda got me worried about it being to far in though as far as it being hit? Didn't look like anything behind it would come in contact with it. My question is why the stepped/grooved housing for the seal if it can't go in that far?
 
Lol alright I'll leave it alone. Kinda got me worried about it being to far in though as far as it being hit? Didn't look like anything behind it would come in contact with it. My question is why the stepped/grooved housing for the seal if it can't go in that far?
That one's probably OK. There one somewhere that's a problem people say. Its probably the rear engine seal.
 
Gotcha, so no confirmed reports on the front pinion seal as far as depth incidents? Lol. Just paranoid now. Guess the worst that can happen is the seal leaks and I replace it. Is the seal on the back of the engine for the prop shaft a bear to change as well?
 
Gotcha, so no confirmed reports on the front pinion seal as far as depth incidents? Lol. Just paranoid now. Guess the worst that can happen is the seal leaks and I replace it. Is the seal on the back of the engine for the prop shaft a bear to change as well?
No reports on the front pinion seal. On the rear prop shaft...Its not bad. Once the driveline is out it's pretty easy to get to. Works the same way. You do want to drain the engine oil though...else its a bit messy...lol
 
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