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Discussion starter · #41 ·
i tried that and couldnt ever get them to start right.
I plan to try that everytime till i get it right.
 
i tried that and couldnt ever get them to start right.
I plan to try that everytime till i get it right.
The trick is to start a pilot hole...don't drill all the way through, you dont want plastic through the motor lol, just enough will work.
 
when i bough mine the seal was leakin and thats how he told me how to do it. i didnt try it though, i thought he was crazy. lol i guess ill give it a try next time!
 
both my front and rear need to be changed.....are there any videos of the front as well?? I'm sure that its waaaayyy easier then the rear......i have been known to be wrong a time or two......
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I have found that its much easier to reinstall the driveshaft if you tie wrap it in the compressed position. Line it up on the bike, cut the tie wrap and your done.
 

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Any tips to get the rear drive shaft out? I've tried like the video but I can't get it to move:grumpy:
 
Any tips to get the rear drive shaft out? I've tried like the video but I can't get it to move:grumpy:
Busted Coolwizard...:34: The book says you are to remove the driveline to grease the u-joints every so often, and if you do, you clean and grease the splines on the yoaks and the center section. If you miss a few of these, and you run in water much, it rusts in place and can become a pain...but you know that now...lol.

Ok, lets get it out. Slip the rubber cups away and spray all splines especialy the center with some PB, WD or LW and let it soak. Tap around with a small hammer and spray some more so as much can get in as possible. Even warm it with a heat gun if you have one. Then pick an end that you can slip a tire tool up in front of the yoke and catch a spot on the frame or case and while prying to the otherside, tap the center spline area. Rotate it if needed but keep working it back and off of the shaft. Once out, clean it real well and use marine grease on all splines...grease the poor u-joints too...I assume the 08s and up still have greasable u-joints.

Some guys put a ratchet strap between the two end and get it that way too.
 
Thanks for the reply, I'll go spray it with the WD40 and let it sit for a little while and try it again.
 
You might just be fun'n but you were right. It was solid!! I wound up unbolting the rear diff and sliding it back enough to get the shaft out. It was the long way around but it worked. I pushed the seal in a little further than I wanted. I hope it doesn't leak!
 
You might just be fun'n but you were right. It was solid!! I wound up unbolting the rear diff and sliding it back enough to get the shaft out. It was the long way around but it worked. I pushed the seal in a little further than I wanted. I hope it doesn't leak!
Never thought of that. Good to know about moving the rear gearcase/diff.
I also thought there was a stop for the seal but I guess not. It shouldn't leak as long as the shaft is the same where the wipe is now as where it's supposed to me. Nice that you can do that because of the wear ring the shafts can get...and they just don't like to seal there any more. I always thought about not going in quite as far if it happed to me.
 
hate to bump an old thread but just to clarify as i am going to do this today. This is the rear main seal coming out of the engine correct?

This is the part number? 92049-0095
 
Yes, that is the part number for the rear seal for the engine. The one where the drive shaft comes out going to the rear end. I just bought 3 yesterday.

----that is all---
 
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