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Brute Force 750 - KEBC Actuator Clean and Lube on Vimeo


Some notes on the video:
When you get the unit back together and you find that the pin on the shaft is in the wrong orientation to fit in the kebc fork, plug up the unit and key on. wait 10 seconds then key off. The unit will reset itself and then you will be able to bolt it onto the KEBC cover.


When testing the motor I stated hook it up to a battery charger and you could see if it worked. If it doesn't turn it might still be bound up. You will know this is you feel the motor in your handle sorta vibrate or try to move. You can feel it. If not, the KEBC is dead.
make sure you have a battery charger that does 10+ volts.

You also need to check the resistance below from the connector. Just get out your multimeter.

Actuator Internal Resistance:
4 (Red) - 6 (Black): 3 15 Ω
1 (Orange) - 3 (Blue): 3.5 6.5 kΩ
2 (Yellow) - 3 (Blue): 630 5,330 Ω

If any reading is not within spec, replace the actuator.


[06/26/09]
A recent finding by LibertyFLA on HL concerning the orientation of the motor housing (in case you forget to mark it) - "FYI to all: the gap between the magnents aligins with the "long" screw that hold the can in place. Yes there are 2 gaps; but only one will align to that screw."
[06/26/09]

[9/17/2009]
I just found this info on Nyroc!
If perhaps the potentiometer is the culprit, although rare, it can be replaced for cheap. Read the passage below.

"Cruiser found a compnay call Tocos that makes the potentiometer inside the KEBC and 4x4 actuators. You can get the potentiometer from them for much cheaper than you can get the entire actuator from the dealer. The P/N is RVQ24YNC0301. The full P/N is rvq24ync030120f-b502.
Polstery said: "I went to my local radio shack and got a 5 ohm 1/2 watt potentiometer and with a little skill and file put it in the actuator. By the way it cost $2.90 and it worked good as new only problem was it only worked for about 6 hours but I knew I was on the right track. I went on the internet and did some fact finding. The stock tacos potentiometer is rated for 2,000,000 cycles or revolutions and the radio shack was only rated for 15,000 BIG difference!!! I did more searching and found a potentiometer that would suit are needs and it has a 20,000,000 mil cycle life best of all its only $11.90. To get it installed all that was needed was to cut the shaft down (it is just a bit too long) and file a flat on the shaft for the actuator gear then solder the 3 wires on. I found the potentiometers at www.mouser.com and the part# is 652-6639s-1-502 If you need any help just ask. Mines been working like new for about 35 hours now and counting."
[/9/17/2009]

[9/17/2009]
Added document that covers the troubleshooting of the actuator system
http://www.mudinmyblood.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1193&d=1253192310
[9/17/2009]


once you get it cleaned, here's how to check it
 

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wish this would have been posted about this time last week. had one that wasnt working and i EXPERIMENTED on it. lets just say it didnt turn out so good.
 

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What happened to it?
If u have given up on it i would be more than happy to take a look at it for you.
I have great lucky working on these.
 

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Ill see if I can find all the parts i kinda took it apart after i couldnt get it to work. I couldnt see anything wrong with it it just wouldnt work.
 

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all you can disassemble is the casing, gears and shaft. The potentiometer and motor stays inside.
I hope those were left in place :D the potientiometer has a specific orientation as does the motor housing and magnets inside if you have to reglue them.
Although it can go back together in any orientation, it seems to only work one way.
 

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Video posted in first post of this thread! In case you don't want to scroll up, here it is again!



Brute Force 750 - KEBC Actuator Clean and Lube on Vimeo


Also, if anyone just doesn't want to fool with the actuator themselves or wants a 2nd opinion on theirs i would be happy to look at it for you.
 

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Looks easy enough.

Steve i take it nothing was wrong with yours?( looked clean to me)

You just took it apart to do the video?
 

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yep nothing wrong with it. It had problems before but none as of now.
it had seized around the shaft poking out.
 

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ill be hookin mine up to a charger or my battery tonite to see if it still works. if it does, then ill get the mulitmeter out and do some testing.
 

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Good Deal. It should turn if not and you feel it try or vibrate for a sec, rip that sucker apart and lube it up. I also forgot to mention it's good to lube the shafts the gears sit on. I'll add that in the notes of the original post.

I also should have shown it hooked up to a battery charger. I will do that video when i get home.
 

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Your a trooper Steve ;)
 

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:D Gotta get the info documented. People have a lot of trouble out of these things and they arent overly complicated. I think lot of people give up on them and order a new one tossing the old, just needing a little attention and care, to the curb!
 

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This is how you check it with a battery charger.
Make sure he charger does 12 volts @ 10amps.

Alternatively, after you get it cleaned and lubed you can connect it to the bike without bolting it to the CVT cover then key on wait 10 seconds then key off. it should move and reset itself.

You can also use the battery on the bike. Just get some jumper cables and put clips in the connector.

 

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Steve you're the man!
 

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thanks brotha :D
 

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Funny you post this now.... If you remember my post about my 4wd acting up... I got the indication and engine brake to work correctly by cleaning the connections to the fuse panel under the seat. However, then the engine brake would make the sound it makes when you shut it off over and over again after the key is off. But it doesn't make the sound it should.. Just noise.. I think I now need to take mine apart and clean it. Must have some mud in there from mudnats. I'm gonna dig in tomorrow morning.:rockn:
 

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Sometimes when they start acting funny like you describe one of the magnets has come loose inside. Good luck. I have confidence you will get it back in workign order.
 

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i just hooked my 4x4 actuator to my battery (had wires with aligator clips already set up from something else) and my actuator is still working. i still cant get my 4x4 to work tho. i have cleaned up the wiring and fuse box. i guess my next step is to start testing with a multimeter (which i dont have at the moment) and see what the problem is.
 

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i just hooked my 4x4 actuator to my battery (had wires with aligator clips already set up from something else) and my actuator is still working. i still cant get my 4x4 to work tho. i have cleaned up the wiring and fuse box. i guess my next step is to start testing with a multimeter (which i dont have at the moment) and see what the problem is.
Good deal. At least you know that 220 dollar new at dealer is working.
Suck part is now you have to find the trouble area. Certainly should be at an end point somewhere.


Hooking to batttery.. i forgot about that.. will update post above.
 

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u state that if the KEBC will reset itself so the shaft is in the right location. will the 4x4 actuator do the same thing?

the 4x4 should move when you flip the switch with just the key on correct? or does the bike have to be running?
 
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