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Ok phreebsd I took my actuator apart and cleaned and greased it. Now something is wrong. When I put it back on and did the reset. the motor kept running. then it finaly stopped. Now when I turn the key on it runs for a short time then stops. when I turn the key off it runs for a short time. When I start it put it in gear everything is fine for a short time. Then it makes a funny sound like something engages. Then the 4WD light starts blinking on 1 sec. intervals. Put it in neutral the light keep blinking. Turn key off and I can hear the motor run for a short time then stop then start again and stop. The belt deflection is good. Did the reset thing still the same. What did I do wrong or screw up
 

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anyone had the black wrap/insulation on their 4wd actuator crack up and flake off??? if you happen to rotate the 4wd act. while out of the diff do you have to place it back in the same position or will it reset when its plugged back up??? i wanna take mine apart to clean it but i dont wanna throw it outta sync. my 4wd acts kinda screwy sometimes so i thought to clean the actuator
Just mark the actuator casing where the cam is once you pull it out and make sure it is in the same spot when you put it back in. Also, try not to rotate the front diff when it is out cause it might be a pain in your arse when you try to line the actuator back up.

Just went threw all this with my wifes SRA a few days ago.
 

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All is good now. I took it all apart again don't know what I did but it seems to be working now
All is not good. Back to my old problem. Took the KEBC back out and checked it. Ran smooth no funny noises. Checked it in the case and the lever moved back and forth just fine Put it back in and did the reset started in no blinking light. Put it in gear and as soon as I let the brake off and the clutch started to turn the light started to blink. Turn the key off restart no blinking light put in gear and start to move and we are back to blinking light. Could this have any thing to do with the potentiometer working or the timing of it. If so how do you check it. I have ordered one from Mouser. I thought just spending $12 before spending $250 for a new KEBC.

I am at wits end any help will greatly appreciated befor I pull the rest of my hair out.:1zhelp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
as far as I know, for the KEBC as long as it's in the proper position to be installed it will reset on next key off.

now, did you check the magnets and such?
 

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Update
I put in a new potentiometer that Cruiser found. Everything seems to be working for now. This is not for the faint of heart. It took abit more work. The shaft was a bit to big in dia. The shortening and the flat were no problem. It was the filing on the round part that was tough. Then I had to grind a bit out of the inside of the case since the contacts come out the bottom instead of the side. But it is still cheaper than $250 for a new KEBC. I hope this lasts.:aargh4:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
good job. my actuator is acting exactly as you described.
looks like i'll be focusing attention on that now.
 

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if your kebc is bad will it cause the acc fuse to blow???? see if taken my apart & lube it up, hooked it up to battery charger, it showed to be working. but when i put it back on & reset it, & turn the key off, it still would act like it was hanging up or something. but if i were to just crank it up & run it for a min it blows the acc fuse..also when i took the motor housing off a corner of one of the magnets was broken.
 

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why would you want your kebc hooked up? i had mine removed and the only difference is when you get below 2-3mph it acts like it kicks in neutral other than that i cant tell a difference and if i just pop the throttle it holds back again and i heard it cuts back on belt wear thats why i did it
 

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Well my last cheap fix lasted about 50 miles. So I bit the bullet and bought a new KEBC. Has worked fine for the last 500 miles. Some times are cheap fixes just don't work
 

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why would you want your kebc hooked up? i had mine removed and the only difference is when you get below 2-3mph it acts like it kicks in neutral other than that i cant tell a difference and if i just pop the throttle it holds back again and i heard it cuts back on belt wear thats why i did it
I wanted the KEBC working as we have some really long steep,rocky and twisty downhills. As far as belt wear I put a 1000 miles on last year checked the belt and there was no wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
thanks for all your posts regarding the kebc actuator, grey ghost!
 

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Looks like I'll probably be doing this tomorrow myself...
 

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Ok i did both my actuators, but now my engine brake one will make a noise every 15 or 20 seconds. It will do it with the key off, and wont stop till my battery is dead. Any ideas as to what would cause this and how i can fix it. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
you need to check the fuse block for corrosion or any debris that may be completing a connection and causing the kebc to stay in action.

Are you still running the KEBC fork?
Did reset the orientation of the device before you placed it back on the cover?
Also, did you make sure you marked the motor housing before you removed it so that it was put back on the same exact way? that's important.
 

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my actuator makes kind of a wierd almost grinding noise back in forth and usually when i come to a stop..four wheel drive will not kick in..my question is if the belt actuator isnt working is that a case to where my 4x4 wont work? and is there suppose to be any noise coming from it whatsoever? any help would be appreciated
 

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my actuator makes kind of a wierd almost grinding noise back in forth and usually when i come to a stop..four wheel drive will not kick in..my question is if the belt actuator isnt working is that a case to where my 4x4 wont work? and is there suppose to be any noise coming from it whatsoever? any help would be appreciated
The two are actualy seperate in operation except when there is an issue and it goes into limp mode. Otherwise, when the forward movement exceeds 2-3mph, the brake actuator engages and holds the primary spider in against the belt on decel until the speed falls below 2-3mph where it retracts. Most times you can't hear that but some are noisy enough to hear. Always they set themselves in the off or "Park" position when you turn the key off. That's what you here then. Kawie has to ensure the belt is not engaged when you hit the start button or there could be some ...legal issues. If they had a different system...like Yamaha and Suzuki they wouldn't have to worry about it. Now, if your battery is going bad, and the speed sencer isn't stable or the power supply isn't stable and the Controler gets speed readings above and then below the breaking point back and forth, the actuator will be enguaging and disenguaging constently. Especialy if you are say...moving very close to the switching point.
 

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Thanks for the info on the belt actuator..I have put a new battery in it so i am hoping thats not my problem but it is very cold this time of year and may be affecting it..any how when i first bought this used about two months ago the four wheel drive worked a couple of times but now it wont engage..light on the dash stays on 2wd..no flashing no nothing..one thing i realized due to overheating is that the fan rarely comes on also..thinking its a bad temp sensor but still no 4wd..any thoughts?
 

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Thanks for the info on the belt actuator..I have put a new battery in it so i am hoping thats not my problem but it is very cold this time of year and may be affecting it..any how when i first bought this used about two months ago the four wheel drive worked a couple of times but now it wont engage..light on the dash stays on 2wd..no flashing no nothing..one thing i realized due to overheating is that the fan rarely comes on also..thinking its a bad temp sensor but still no 4wd..any thoughts?
Well, if the actuator had a problem the the light would be on/flashing. So either there is an electrical problem before the unit or the unit actualy can not move.
 
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